I always seem to get some rodbond on my EVA grips that I don't see till it's dry. Before I start sanding......how do you guys like to clean up EVA grips before turning the rod over to the customer?

Joe

Next time try to remember to tape the ends with the blue painters tape Less mess Then clean while wet

If dry you will probably have to sand it off

Bill - willierods.com

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/2016 05:07PM by John E Powell.

Eva can also be reamed out for a easier fit Tight is not good it will squeezes out the glue
Use reamers on a drill -- EASY does it don't force the reamer in hard it will get hot and soften the glue
I usually ream till the eva stops about 2 - 3" form the end of placement Then do as John suggests

Bill - willierods.com

I do tape everything up as I have had some epoxy disasters in the past but after reading the above replies, I think I am guilty of not reaming out my foregrips enough. I am usually working pretty hard to get them in place and squeezing out all of the adhesive I had to apply as a lubricant in the first place.

I think I better invest in a good set of reamers.

If you have or can get some broken blank scraps you can make your own reamers ???

Bill - willierods.com

bill boettcher Wrote:
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> If you have or can get some broken blank scraps
> you can make your own reamers ???

Yes Bill.....I saw a great tutorial on that.....fellow was reaming bunches cork rings in seconds with reamers he fabricated from scrap blanks and mounted in his drill. I just don't have that kind of space available to me.

I know what you mean My living room keeps getting smaller and smaller LOL

Bill - willierods.com

Broken rod blanks are free, and a 40" 120 grit sanding belt will set you back $2.68. Cut the belt, making it a straight strip, dab some Pliobond contact cement on the back of the strip and on broken blank section, let it dry for 5 minutes, then wrap the adhesive strip around the blank in open spirals, leaving about 1/2" of open space between the spirals of sanding strip [room for cork dust]. Presto! you have a reamer that will last you a lifetime for less than $2.90, and it will work as well as any, even those with jeweled handles.

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Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/2016 05:06PM by John E Powell.

Yes
The 36 grit is faster and does not clog up as bad I use a stiff brush pull the reamer out tap on it and then brush it to get it clean

Bill - willierods.com

Joe- I agree with John the flex coat 36 grit paper is the way to go. You can make a reamer of any length and diameter you want by using various pieces of blanks. I like solid fiberglass just because it holds up very well, but any broken blank pieces can be used (the thicker the wall the better). These reamers can be used by hand or chucked into a hand drill, or a lathe (if you have one). Use contact cement to attach the strip of sand paper to the blank; it holds up much better than epoxy because it is much more heat resistant.
Norm

I fit grips to blanks by feel, not by measurement, and up to now I have used 80 grit sanding belts on my reamers. Available cork today has a lot of gaps so I'm going to 120 grit to minimize cork crumbling while reaming the grip. Working the reamer by hand takes only a few minutes, minimizes "over-reaming" the grip, and gives me the fit I want. I can spare the extra minute or two.

Eva is not as easy as cork

Bill - willierods.com

I am all good on making some reamers....I have a few scrap blanks and a drill clamp.I am just not sure how to anchor a shaft into the blank so I can secure it in the chuck.

Steel rods of various diameters can be used or different sized bolts with the heads cut off work well. These can be fit inside the blank by using masking tape as bushings and glued in place with epoxy. Reinforce the end of the blank wth winding tread and coat it with epoxy. This should give you something that can be chucked into a drill. If you cannot find a steel rod to fit inside the blank because of a small ID use a metal male rod ferrule of the appropriate size. These can be found at most online rod building supply companies, use the cheapest ones. After this is done coat the blank and sandpaper strip with contact cement after it dries spiral wrap the abrasive strip to the blank from tip to butt in a clockwise direction leaving a space between the wraps. These reamers work well and are inexpensive to make. Hope this helps.
Norm

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Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/2016 05:06PM by John E Powell.

Thanks All for taking the time to respond....I really appreciate the info.