So I read Tom's article on acid rod static load guide spacing. However, it states you should have some Idea where the stripper is going... This is my first conventional rod ever, custom or store bought. So I have no idea where to locate my first guide.

I also don't know about sizing. The blank is a RCLB70M I plan to use on the party boats in SoCal. I have a Senator special 112 loaded with 30 lb thin mono from the seller, but that may change to braid with a 30 lbs shock leader in the future. My plan for ring sizes was to run a 20-12 reduction, size 8 running, and an 8 tip top. Would this be sufficient for 30-40 lb braided to 30 lb mono knot? And is 20 large enough for the stripper? Will be using live and cut bait and irons, if that matters.

Also this will be a simple spiral.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/22/2015 02:45AM by Randy Weakley.

You probably can just go 20 right to your runner size. When you mock things up, the big things to look for with a conventional reel without a levelwind are that you can manipulate the line with your thumb as line comes back on the reel, and that the line won't slice across the hand when holding the grip as a fish makes a run. You'll probably find there's a sweet spot or a small range where both of these work reasonably well. For the transition guide, there should be no need for a taller 12. Keep in mind that if you're managing line with your left thumb, it will be easier to push the line to the right side of the reel than it will be to pull it to the left (with your hand holding the front grip). To help the more difficult left thumb line pull scenario, it can be helpful to spiral the guides around the left side of the rod (away from reel handle). You might even find it helpful to position the stripper guide leaning slightly to the left of top dead center. With this arrangement where the line favors returning to the left, it will help to balance out the effort needed by your left thumb to wind the line on the reel evenly.

I've built a few spiral wrapped copper line trolling rods using the 112 and if you have a small hand the line if pretty far from the grip when the spool is filled. With a large hand (and more thumb reach) the first guide can be further forward while a smaller hand will require a closer placement.

Hey Randy, I would go with a 20 stripper and 10's the rest of the way. The 10's will pass a knot and the occasional swivel much easier. I prefer a 0-10, 60,120, 170-180 spiral when I build them. I'm in the process of finishing 5 spiral rods for customers to give for Christmas. Good luck. MH

Michael Harmon Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Hey Randy, I would go with a 20 stripper and 10's
> the rest of the way. The 10's will pass a knot and
> the occasional swivel much easier. I prefer a
> 0-10, 60,120, 170-180 spiral when I build them.
> I'm in the process of finishing 5 spiral rods for
> customers to give for Christmas. Good luck. MH


If you find you need to up the runner ring size, don't forget the tip also.

Randy,
With respect to first guide spacing. I generally use a distance of 19-22 inches from the face of the reel to the first guide for typical rod lengths of 6-9 feet.

However, if one is building a surf rod that is 13-15 feet long, then the first guide will be spaced at 25-35 inches.

The general rule of thumb is that if the rod blank does not flex during normal use, there is not much need for a guide at that location. i.e. the purpose of the guide is to guide the line so that it follows the contour of the loaded blank. If loading under normal conditions does not bend the blank, then there is no need for a guide because the line is already following the blank.

Be safe

Build your handle and tape up your guides. Then put your reel on and run the line through. Flex your rod hard (but not to hard) and see where the line lays between the reel and the stripper. Make sure it's at a comfortable height for you to manage. If not change the guide size or you can mess with the distance a little. Reel height, grip size, and where the blank begins to flex all factor in some.

The line coming off the reel can be a problem under the strain of a big fish,
possibly cutting into your hand when in front of the reel for leverage,
so measuring the butt guide placement can be very important.
We sometimes also will us either a larger (size 25) guide, and/or a higher frame.
The guides after that can (and probably should) all be the same size, whatever that is.
There is no need to "step down" like a conventional rod.
Hope this helps,
Merry Christmas!

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381

Thanks for all the tips!

The tip of this blank is 7.5, and they don't make a 10 ring in that size. Have to step up to an 8.0 tube size. Can I just run some thread around the tip to build up enough for the larger tube size?

And how do you static load test a 0-60-120-180? The simple spiral seems pretty easy...just static load a plain conventional setup, and then flip all but the stripper to the 180.

John- when you say shouldn't need larger than a 12 for transition guide can you clarify? I thought with a simple spiral, you didn't use a transition guide, only a bumper guide to keep line off the blank.

make it easy
Space the guides using a Spinning Rod chart ( no bumper ) Butt guide for reel to be used and can be changed
Turn the first two butt guides up to 0 Run line with weight though the guides Static test Adjust the 1 - 2 butt guides and all others
Have the line LAY at the bottom of the first two guides close to the blank Not the sides Under Pressure
mark where the line touches the blank in between the 1 - 2 butt guides Add a bumper Size of runner guides
O ya Glue the top on At 180
After it is set up put the reel on Lay out line and add weight Retrieve the line and check how it goes onto the reel It is better to push line over then try to pull it if it stacks to one side

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/23/2015 09:57AM by bill boettcher.

So Bill, you are suggesting making the transition between the 2nd and 3rd guide rather than 1st and 2nd?

No
i said the 1 - 2 butt guides Meaning the butt guide and no 2 guide Before a bumper Then put in a bumper in between them where the line touches the blank I usually start with a 20 but lately use a 16 butt guide then the a runner for the bumper guide depends on how the line lays out

Bill - willierods.com

Sorry I was a little lost. You said "turn the first two butt guides up to 0", so I was assuming a transition at the third guide.

Some periods would make your posts a little easier to read, ha ha.

Once up then with reel and line on and under pressure builder would adjust the guides according to where the line wants to be. Locate where the bumper would go add.

Bill - willierods.com

Thanks for the clarification, hope you had a great Christmas!