I did a under wrap with Pro wrap 9520 with a nylon top rap and when I put on the epoxy it bleeds thru what can I do to prevent happing ?

Regular nylon thread requires color preserver in order to keep the thread from turning transparent.

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It's not the nylon that is bleeding thru.

Whatever is underneath the thread will show through if you do not treat it with color preserver.

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Pack your threadwork tightly together and apply color preserver as per the MFG instructions.

Packing threads alters the shape of the thread slightly increasing the contact area from thread to thread thereby lessening what shows through between the threads from underneath. It's not just eliminating open visible gaps. I explain it this way to my students - I ask them to imagine we section the threads and look at the ends of the threads"

This is what wraps with gaps looks like: O O O O O O O O O O There are visible open spaces. You can have tight wraps with no gaps like this OOOOOOOOOO, but the area where one thread touches the next has very little material thickness to hide a color from below showing through. By packing the threads tightly against each other you accomplish an effect something like this 0000000000. Note the area where one thread touches the next has more material thickness and can better hide a different color from beneath. When you pack thread, you usually can get a few more turns of thread in the same length of wrap so your actually getting more thread and altering it's shape to something more desirable.

There are two schools of thought on applying color preserver to guide wraps. One school of thought goes something like this: Color preserver helps maintain the colors of my threadwork by sealing it so the clear finish won't turn it translucent and I'm not worried about the ultimate strength of my guide wraps because they're durable enough for my needs. The other school of thought goes something like I want my epoxy finish to soak through the threads all the way to the blank instead of just laying on top of the color-preserver-sealed thread. I'm going to plan for the bleeding of colors by choosing complimentary underwrap colors and pre-testing the bleed effect to make sure the end result is acceptable.

My recommendations to you are to pack your guide wraps tightly, and then consider the level of duty you need from your rods and make your own choice on the use of color preserver. I generally build rods for a charter fleet that get severely abused by customers (and sometimes the crew) so ultimate durability is my primary build concern so I generally don't use CP on guide wraps. I have wrapped samples of all my threads on the popular colors of blanks I use. Each has a sample of color preserved and untreated finish. I can usually pretty well either match or find a complimentarily pleasing color of untreated thread to match the color-preserver-treated threadwork in a decorative wrap. So basically I color preserve decorative threadwork for maximum appeal and do not use color preserver on structural threadwork for my severe duty applications. If I built lighter, less specialized kind of gear I would consider CP use more often.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/11/2015 10:09AM by John E Powell.

I only build for professional charter boat operations and always use CP on my wraps. Being thinner than epoxy, the CP penetrates deeply to the blank to seal and lock the threads in place. The epoxy then bonds and encapsulates that. These are NOT weak wraps. They are many times over strong enough for hard daily saltwater use.

Mike Ballard Wrote:
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> I only build for professional charter boat
> operations and always use CP on my wraps. Being
> thinner than epoxy, the CP penetrates deeply to
> the blank to seal and lock the threads in place.
> The epoxy then bonds and encapsulates that. These
> are NOT weak wraps. They are many times over
> strong enough for hard daily saltwater use.


An example of the first school of thought... /smile

Nice technical explanation John. Enjoyed reading it!