I would appreciate sources or observations on ideal dryer RPM's for particular types of epoxies and particular temperature ranges.

Phil,
These things are quite objective.

But the only goal of both rpm and temperature is to get a perfect, level, smooth, unmarred finish on your rod blanks.

Depending on the finish, you might find some variables.

It would seem that thicker finishes can be turned more slowly, without getting sags in the finish compared to thinner finishes.

One way to judge, is that if you are getting sags or droops - you are turning too slowly.

If you are getting the finish to football or get extra thick in the middle of the finish you are likely turning too fast which causes the finish to flow to the middle of the wrap.

I have used a drying rpm from 4 rpm to 20 rpm. However, I generally use an rpm of 6-12 rpm.

I generally like to keep the temperature in the drying room or on the rod at least at 75 degrees. The higher temperature cures the finish more quickly and thus gives less time for contamination to occur to the rod. I also find that the higher finish, just gives the final degree of cure in 3/4s of a day, rather than 2 or 3 days.

------------------

If you use a DC gear motor to turn your rods on a dryer, you can easily implement a chopper style power supply to vary the speed from 0 to the maximum speed of the gear motor.

Then, you can dial in the exact speed that you wish.

I personally use DC gear motors on my dryers, with speed controls on them and find that in general, I tend to turn the rods somewhat faster than somewhat slower.

---
I also use my power wrapper to apply finish quickly. I commonly spin the rod at speeds up to 100 rpm or so for the initial application of finish. It is pretty easy to get all of the guides and butt wraps coated in under 5 minutes, often less then 3 minutes using such a system. No reason not to use a wrapper, since the rod is already on the wrapper anyway.

I do put cardboard down over the wrapper bed while applying finish to avoid getting any finish on the bed of the wrapper.

Be safe

Hi Phil,

I use original recipe ThreadMaster, and I heat my room to 75-80°. My dryer spins at 6 rpm, and I usually allow 6 hours before recoating. I apply over feathers, jewels, long wraps, and labels, and I do mostly two piece 9-10' rods. I usually have around 30-40 mins of pot life at that temp.

Take care,

Chris

Roger: The reason I ask is I use my drier on my workbench which is located in my non- air conditioned garage which is located in Florida. I assume you use 6-12 RPM on your dryer at room temperature. For six months or more a year my dryer operates in 90+ degree temperatures. I need to adjust either the speed of the dryer, the viscosity of the epoxy, air condition my garage ($), or bribe my wife to bring the dryer into the house(big$). I hate the $ option, and i hate to spoil a build with wavy/lumpy epoxy.

If you are using a high build finish You should get better results with a light build
Also if you load the finish on Cover the wraps -- Then stop the dryer let some drip off and take it off with the brush Then start the turner I always use at lest 50 rpm turner and if it looks like there is to much or it is not leveling I stop and take some off cause I have loaded to much finish on
2 coats

Bill - willierods.com

Phil,
For your situation, I would suggest that you insure that you limit your finish application time to no more than 5 minutes.

i.e. with 90 degree temps, the finish is going to be setting up fairly quickly. So, by limiting your application time to a short time, the finish will be able to flow nicely and level.

Even if you have to mix a couple of times for a rod, it should help to insure the quality of your finish.

Be safe

Phil,

I apply my epoxy at a higher speed, say 50 to 200 rpm and then move the rod to a dryer and let it turn slow. The higher speed application help keep nice crisp epoxy lines and seems to flow the epoxy around the wraps more smoothly. Less is greater!

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com