Typically roller guides are found on these type of store bought rods for Salmon Fishing Lake Ontario.

I would like to re-build a slightly abused Shimano 9ft Telora fishing rod (Model TLA-90MC-2) into something less typically found in my fishing circles. In other words I would like to perhaps use a med./heavy boat style guide rather then the typical roller guides being used by fisherman in my circle. The guides would have to be able to handle multi strand stainless wire line,usually 7 strand., fished rather hard for the 2 to 3 months of the summer here.

Before someone states it, I have researched the topic somewhat on this forum and found conflicting opinions on weather or not the Silicon Carbide ,Silicon Nitrides, Carboloy and Other Assorted Hard Ring Materials can handle the multi strand stainless stl. fishing wires. It has also been suggested that a roller guide tip top or twilly top would be smart to avoid line twists typical of wire line use. I am hoping someone here has some long term experience with this type of build and can relay to me their findings on ring wear, roller tip tops/twilly top combos with boat guide construction, anything that might help me to produce a rod that I feel has the classic boat guide look with the durability to handle the line type mentioned

This rod is typically fished with a Shimano Tekota 700LC trolling reel. Any guide sizes and quantity suggestions leading up to a roller tip top would also be appreciated

Steve Lynas



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/23/2015 11:11AM by Steve Lynas.

Steve, I have tons of wire diver rods fishing Lake Michigan using Fuji's Silicon Nitride rings. A few of these are tourney boats in their 5th season of hard use. For spiral setups, I use the Twilly due to lack of a suitable alternative. For guides on top builds, I go with the Torpedo Tip. I tend to space the guides slightly closer (one extra guide for a ten footer) for wire rods as insurance against the line touching the blank at any time. I start with a 16mm and transition to 8's quickly.

I've used the AFTCO lightweight rollers tip top on some rods, designed for 2 - 30 lb. line, I've used wire and heavier braid on them with no problems so far, admittedly they see much more braid then wire. Lots of salmon and sturgeon in the 8-9 ft. range have been caught on these guides. As a side note I've had good results casting with these guides, even with a full set of them. All the guides and tip tops use the same replacement roller.

Forgive my unfamiliarity with the term "Spiral Wraps". But are you referring to the method of wrapping guides in a spiral formation around the rod blank. If so do you think there is major advantages being achieved with this style of guide placement for trolling rods.

"I tend to space the guides slightly closer (one extra guide for a ten footer) for wire rods as insurance against the line touching the blank at any time... For guides on top builds, I go with the Torpedo Tip."

So do I understand you correctly. Are you suggesting I replace the 9 guides I presently have on my 9 footer blank with 10 guides plus my tip top for insurance? OR Is it only when rods are 10 foot or longer that you start to add this additional insurance guide.

You also state that for "top builds" you like the Torpedo Tip.

Do think the Torpedo Tip is a better roller guide tip for some reason then others or is it just an availability and/or price thing?

Thanks Tony. I just wanted to make sure I understand your valuable experience with these builds. Sounds to me like Lake Michigan Charters are running the same type of rod set ups as Salmon Charters on Lake Ontario so as this fits my needs I do appreciate your opinions.

Steve Lynas

Yes, spiral wraps the guides to the bottom of the blank. This technique removes reel torque (rod wanting to twist in your hands caused by the line trying to get towards the resistance or bottom of blank, pulling on one side or other of the guide train-simplified). Your spiral rod will fight much better without needing a death grip on the rod. I add an extra guide on every length rod, if I would normally use 8 for a standard rod, I use 9 for a wire rod. The torpedo is very similar to Aftcos swivel roller tip, but they add a tiny SIC tunnel in front of the roller to keep the wire centered at all times on the roller. Yes, most charter or tourney guys run Talora/Tekota setups as a standard, then migrate towards customs to get around the issues with the Taloras.

Another benefit to the spiral wrap is that because you don't twist the tip section from the line force, your blank "should" have a longer life.

Well I suppose the next and quite possibly last question is,

What is the best way to gain the knowledge I would need for the guide placements for this spiral wrap on a wire trolling rod?

Steve Lynas

Do a search for "simple spiral". That is what I use. Other than the first three transition guides, the spacing is just like any other castin/trolling setup. Place guides to evenly distribute load and get a nice line path. I would be happy to give you a couple starting point recipes I use for 9 and 10 foot divers.

Appreciate the offer.
I have been researching the wrap and have found several nice starting points. If you wanted to email me some lay out numbers for a 9 foot rod I certainly would not disregard it as a nice starting point.

steve.lynas@gmail.com

It seems to me the object is to get the line to spiral around the rod blank within the first 3 or 4 guides so as to be 180 degrees from the 0 point or where the is line coming off the reel, and then line them up in a row until you space them out to the tip top . Spacing is going to be what it would normally be with some particular care taken to make sure the line does not come into any contact with the rod.

Thus perhaps the need for an extra guide kind of thing

Steve Lynas



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 08/23/2015 06:09PM by Steve Lynas.

An easy thing to do is find a spacing chart for the rod you are building Use a spinning chart 9' plus one Put the guides on as a spinning rod then move the butt guide to ( 0 ) I have some asking for a factory look ????? If you want and you do have enough guides First butt at 0 then start the spiral
A static test will tell you where the guides should go - Under Pressure - then adjust if needed

Bill - willierods.com

I emailed you some info, let me know if you need anything else, or if the files don't work.