I had 3 large O rings break into on my power wrapper in the last 3 months. I have checked for any ruff spots on the pulley and none to be found. The O ring is not tight. Goes on and off without much tension. The original O ring lasted almost 3 years. Anyone had this problem before or any suggestions i could check . The breaks are what you would say horizontal breaks.

Thanks for any suggestions.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/16/2015 09:16PM by Roger Rierson.

Roger,
Just go and pick up silicone O ring replacements.

The silicone O rings seem to last forever.

@#$%& and others have such O rings available.

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Are the O rings being used as belts, or are they being used as liners for the rod rests?

Belts.
Thanks Roger

Hi Roger.
If you are using the O rings for a belt, without much success, you might like to look at what the surfers use to tie the surf board to their leg. Not being a surfer, I am sorry but I have no idea what the name for it is. After cutting it to length you melt each end with a cigarette lighter, to melt it, then simply hold it until it runs together and joins That takes roughly half a minute. When it has cooled file the joint smooth so it runs evenly. They last for years, mine roughly eight years so far. Mind you sharks bite them in half, so be a bit careful if you go swimming with your lathe.

Kind regards,
Rod Mboro.
Qld.

Good idea rod. Its a surf leash. Look for a competition or ultra light one of you want to try it. Very durable. can he expensive but you get 6'+ to work with. Also look on diving website for a dry suit rubber conditioner. It can help extend the life of the ring. Best, MH

Maybe this is what you should have as a belt
[www.rodbuilding.org]

Bill - willierods.com

bill boettcher Wrote:
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> Maybe this is what you should have as a belt
> [www.rodbuilding.org]
> ?photo=19381&cat=508


Bill is that DC motor on the Alps Reversible???

Thanks
Tom

Tom
Yes, that is correct.
I made the modification for the alps headstock using a DC gear motor and XL cogged belt and cogged pulleys.

The following is a picture of the completed Alps upgraded rod wrapper with headstock, dc motor, XL pulleys and belt, DC power control box with dial for speed control A reversing switch on the end of a cable so that the switch alone can be moved up and down the rod; as the rod is built to take care of any reversing needs while wrapping. Also, the modified Line Master foot pedal for speed control when using your foot.

So, one can build and wrap the rod using the pedal for building as well as finish application. Then, flip the control selector switch to enable the dial -- rather than the pedal for over night drying at a slow speed.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Tom
Yes, that is correct.
I made the modification for the alps headstock using a DC gear motor and XL cogged belt and cogged pulleys.

The following is a picture of the completed Alps upgraded rod wrapper with headstock, dc motor, XL pulleys and belt, DC power control box with dial for speed control A reversing switch on the end of a cable so that the switch alone can be moved up and down the rod; as the rod is built to take care of any reversing needs while wrapping. Also, the modified Line Master foot pedal for speed control when using your foot.

So, one can build and wrap the rod using the pedal for building as well as finish application. Then, flip the control selector switch to enable the dial -- rather than the pedal for over night drying at a slow speed.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Take care