For those of you using a dip pen for signatures I would like to know what size nib you are using and a source to get one. Also if you are using Testor paint for ink what is the ratio for diluting. Thanks in advance.

Muskyfsh

Im in the same position .I bought a pen , Testors and a number 6 nib which is very fine . Have not had time to play. I understand there is a coating over the nib that has to be taken off before use?

I just started playing around with this and am not sure of the size nib I have been using. I have used Testor's silver paint and do not dilute it at all. After the inscription has dried I put a coat of colour preserver over top and let that dry, then put rod finish over the top and have not had any problems. I tried using some clear coat Krylon on top of the dried inscription instead of the CP and it basically dissolved the paint/writing and I had to wipe it off and start over. I have only tried using silver paint so far. Best of luck, let us know how you make out.
Cheers

Jeff

Jeff,
If you use a dip pen with testors paint, you need to be able to frequently clean the pen, including the ink groove.

I generally use Xylene to clean the pen. If you don't keep the pen 100% clean, the pain won't flow down the pen. I generally use some of the finest point pens that I can get. I have generally used Speed ball pens.

[www.dickblick.com]

However, when just starting - get a selection of pen sizes and use the ones that work best for you.

Although I have used Testors pen a lot, I have mainly been using Acrylic ink for the last couple of years. The ink just simply works better with much less hassle than the paint. The ink is water soluble, so it is easy to clean the pen and much easier to keep the pen free flowing.

This last year, I have started using the Acrylic ink from Speed ball. Great product that just simply works.

[www.michaels.com]

I have my wife do all of my lettering since she is an artist and does a much much better job than I could ever do.

But, I will let the ink dry for a couple of hours, and then go ahead and apply rod finish over the lettering as I am applying finish to the rest of the butt wraps and guides. One thing that is important is to not put too much finish on the lettering, but have the finish nice and fluid so that it flows out nicely, but doesn't have to flow very much. Do NOT brush the area where lettering has been applied, or you may affect the lettering. Other than that, no issues at all with just applying finish directly over the lettering without any other coating over the lettering.

Dick Blick as well as Michael's have products that will work well for you. They generally have some pretty knowledgeable staff that can help you with specific questions.

Metallic paints (Testor) seem to work best.

George Forster
Fort Collins, CO

I found a bunch of vintage nibs from the early 1920's at work. they are a bit bigger than the one I bought from a rod supplier. for me they are what works. I'll check the size number when I get home but I've got something like 50 of them. If anyone is interesed in one, let me know.