Any input on the guid placement and spacing for a acid wrapped 6ft super seeker hercules blank?
Im worried about the line constantly drifting to the side of the spiral.

You can offset the 0 degree guide just enough so that the line itself is on the 0 degree axis as it passes through the guide.

....................

Before you wrap the guides Retreve line with some weight on Adjust as the line goes on the reel

Bill - willierods.com

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> You can offset the 0 degree guide just enough so
> that the line itself is on the 0 degree axis as it
> passes through the guide.
>
> ....................


I second this suggestion. It will eliminate line stacking!

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

Good advice, So 180, 120, 60, -10 or something close to that?
I'll also do the surgical tube trick and weight.

Is there a basic formula for guide spacing? After the butt, reel seat and grips I'll have 49-50 inches of rod left to place the guides. Im planning on using 8 to 9 guides plus tip top.

Appreciate all the help, The components and basic tools were not cheap so i don't want to mess it up :)

The artical stats to put the guides on as a casting rod On top

But since most are as a spinner I put them on as a spinning rod Then bring the butt and one or two more upward Then run a line and Static test As a spinning rod there will be less guides
I always try to get the line to NOT press on the side of a guide Adjust guides and sizes

Bill - willierods.com

To get the offset they were talking about, decide which way your spiral will be, most spiral toward the reel handle. Place the guide closest to the reel on the rod where you want it, with a reel in the reel seat and sight down the blank, place the guide in the vertical position, 0 degs. Now while sighting down the blank rotate the guide opposite to the spiral till the edge of the guide is in the vertical position. Now the line will always run against the side of the guide and straight on to the reel.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/11/2015 08:04PM by Spencer Phipps.

Feeling like I'm getting a good idea on how to Properly spiral around the blank.

The thing I'm unsure about at this point is how much space I should have between the guides. And how close should I please the 1st guide to the grip?

IMHO

I would say just as a spinning rod Some where around 18 - 23" from the seat or reel

Also move guides back and forth to see if it works better closer or father IF YOU ARE CASTING IT FOR DISTANCE

Bill - willierods.com

In contrast to Spencer's comments, I like to orient the guides so that I normally don't see the line touching the side of the guide.

I have also found that in contrast to a previous comment that I normally offset the first guide to be in the same direction as the spiral.

To check, after taping the guides in place, feed line through the guides and out the tip. Then, feed out about 100 feet of line. Put slight tension on the line and without touching the line, see how the line flows, whether it is rubbing on any guide, (side, bottom or top), and whether there is line stacking on one side of the reel or the other.

If you do find that the line is stacking to one side of the reel, offset the guide about 5 degrees from where it is at; and restest.

But, before you are finished, offset the first guide all of the way from about -15 degrees to 0 to + 15 degrees and find the very best orientation for the butt guide to give you the best overall line flow.

As you are doing this, also check the line flow going through all of the other guides. On a modest tension, your guides should be aligned, so that you do not see much force or rubbing of the line on any guide, or guide part.

If necessary, move the guides, and or change the size of the guides to give you the best overall line flow.

Remember, the 2nd guide needs to have the bottom of the guide nearly touching the blank. You want the line to just barely be off the blank as it flows around the side of the blank. You don't want to be using a large guide that is offset off the blank. A guide of this size and type will create a lot of line friction as you are retrieving the line.

Be safe

Solid, thank you!
I'm going to put on my reel seat tonight and will start some placement test tomorrow.
Once I feel I have got it right I'll take a shot video and post the link for feed back before wrapping.
Mahalo!

Jesse,

This is probably one of the most frequently asked about topics. You can read up on the previous posts and replies and get a lot of information that has just been touched on here. Try a search for spiral wraps and set the time period for more than 30 days.

for my calstar 90j deckhand acid wrap with lexa 400 reel I ended up using 4 guides to complete a slow spiral.
10 size tip followed by
4 size 10
6 size 12 2 rotated ~45
1 size 16 rotated ~45
last size 25 stripper guide rotated 15 deg

I had the guide placement checked at acid rods C&M tackle. No issues were found

I hope to test in in april on blue fin.

Ok I think i'v got it, first i spiraled to the right but after pulling out the yak i noticed it did not mater and my guides would still get caught between kayak and rod, so i went with a left spiral for the ease of line feeding.
These rods are never cast so i'm not worried about casting at all.
tip top
#10 x 2 *180 degrees
#12 x 2 *180 degrees
#16 x 2 *first #16 is at about 120 degrees
#10 bumper *90 degrees
# 20 striper *0 degrees

Thinking maybe i should go with a #25 stripper??

clip is 38 seconds, please take a look and tell me if i should change anything before wrapping. [www.youtube.com]



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 03/13/2015 05:19AM by Jesse Wright.

Well, my only comment is it seems like you're using a lot of guide sizes unnecessarily. Pick your stripper size for line clearance around your grip and then go right to your runner size for all the rest. Stress test it, and only if the stress testing shows a need would I then increase the height of one of the guides in the rotation, but I can't imagine why you would need to use the 16s or 12s. If 10 is your runner size to pass knots or splices, then i'd start with 20 and all the rest 10. If your rigging allows 8 instead of 10, then 20 and all 8. I'd try that layout first and only if the line passes through the second guide without touching the ring would I consider increasing the size to from a 10 to 12 (or 8 to 10/12).

I agree with John.
Since your bumper is size 10, no need to go back to any guide size larger than a size 10.

You are building a very robust rod. I hope that you catch some fish to bend the rod as much as you have it loaded.

Be safe

I ordered all my guides before i really understood how to do a acid wrap. Will it negatively effect the performance if i use the guides i have? other then adding a little extra weight?

Im a little confused on the terminology, so the very first guide is called a "stripper" and the 2nd guide called a "bumper" and the 3rd guide is considered the 1st guide or is it considered the 2nd guide?

The line passes through the #16 guide after the bumper guide without touching it. is this good?

Robust is what i'm going for. Planning on using these rods for big Tuna and maybe marlin, also the Shark, Amberjack and GT by catches.

Get rid of the 16 and 12 As John has said get several more 10's Go 20 then all the rest 10's
Check the 20 and see if the line under Lots of pressor does not run over your fingers - Don't get smacked in the face LOL
Then retreve 100 plus ft line and get the line to load a TAD over to the left of center on the reel ( you are reeling with right hand ? ) It is a lot easier to Push Line over - Then to try and pull it

Bill - willierods.com

Thank you so much for the help guys.
Ok so i'll order more 10's redo and redo the stress test.
Aloha!

Jesse,
Out of curiosity, what lb test line do you run on your reel?

Also, what size and species of fish do you normally catch with this rod?

Great looking rod testing setup.

Be safe