Hello all!

I have a blank with a reverse taper(smaller OD on the butt, and larger OD towards the tip) on the bottom half of the rod. Was looking to do full EVA grips. what is the best method if wanting to use 1 long piece of EVA? What is your method to building up to the EVA's ID on the smaller section of the rod? Thank you very much! trying to save as much weight as possible so looking for your best practices!


Thank you again!

Andrew,
I just make an arbor of masking tape. I leave about a 1/8th inch gap between rows of masking tape to allow the epoxy to come down between the masking tape to adhere to the blank.

Be safe

Like said I use 1/4 " tape for the arbores and scoff the blank for a good bond

This must be a New Type of blank Never seen this What make is it ??? newer ones are said to be a Straight taper

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/07/2015 06:10PM by bill boettcher.

Hey Bill..........if it is "straight", it's not a taper! lol

Hay Phil

Check out the New Point Blanks They have a streight butt [rodbuilding.org]

And i would guess you have a blank that has a Smaller Butt They usually taper to a LARGER butt to the end of the blank

Like I have said Never herd of this - what company - what blank

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/07/2015 06:36PM by bill boettcher.

Are we sure our leg isn't being pulled?
I guess we're too politically correct to suggest turning the blank around and using the big end as the butt...Too bad, that just might have worked.

If the handle has a reverse taper it may be that you have a butt join blank.
Is the tip/handle ratio about 70/30 or greater?

If it is a butt join blank, the reel seat is at the top of the handle and reinforces the female section of the ferrule.

A second way to build this blank is to have the upper grip also on the handle. In this case the upper edge of the grip is even with the top of the handle (which is also the top of the female section of the ferrule).

In building with the reel seat and lower grip on the handle, the reel seat is slid onto the handle from the butt end. It is followed by the lower grip that is also slid from the butt end of the handle. The upper grip will be installed on the tip section of the blank.

The same procedure is used when the reel seat, upper grip and lower grip are all located on the handle. They are all slid into place from the butt end of the handle.

Garry, the butt joined blanks enable the use of the reel seat to reinforce the female ferrule. This configuration is found on plugging blanks rated to PE-10 or PE-12.

Don Becker

Now I see what he is talking about
I took a look and found I think is a Shamano rod Seems like they trimed off about 2' of butt section and turn it around Then make the tip go into the butt That is why the tapper gets smaller at the end The section they trim is all handle and seat

Bill - willierods.com

hello everyone! this is a butt joint(female bottom section, male top @ ~70/30)GT rod rated for pe12 line. The blank is a unitedxcomposites formerly known as Graphite USA. I am a big fan of both the new and old stuff! ive run into some minor problems but that has not deterred me as most of their work has been really great!

the reverse taper on this rod has been made so that it shaves a lot of weight on the butt section of the rod since in the GT world, the bottom half doesnt really flex all that much, especially on pe12 rods.

Don! ive spoken to you before on HFF, email, and other sites! always a great resource! I plan on keeping the EVA on the bottom section only.

Thanks a lot everyone! I have been using masking tape before but wanted to see if there were any other methods that others have tried to shave weight, but at this point, 200g+ lures and this rod will probably not see a difference from a small area like taping.

Thank you again!!!

Hi Andrew,

Although the handle may seem rigid, it should flex. This is to help protect the tip section when the fish is near a boat and there is a tendency to high stick the rod.

Masking tape should not be used with Ulua rods. It is a wood product, will get wet, will expand and will separate. If your grips are properly prepared, they should slide uperward onto the handle using epoxy as a lubricant. If you need to shim the reel seat, use thread or yarn. The thread or yarn will act as a reservoir for the epory and provide full contact between the blank and the reel seat. When using thread or yarn, the material should not be packed tight as it must permit the flow of epoxy between the blank and reel seat. You must be able to fully saturate the material with epoxy. You can use painters masking tape to protect your blank and parts from epoxy during assembly.

I did return from China Fish on Friday morning. What may be of interest to you is a request I made for shockleader. 80# for the small end and 200# for the runnung section. The company will investigate to determine if they can supply the shockleader. You would be amazed by the number of pictures that were drawn to convey the idea of heavy shockleader. If the minimum order quantity is high ($$$) I may have to pass on the purchase.

Best wishes,
Don

Don Becker



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/08/2015 05:25PM by Donald Becker.

Don,

As i am a fly fisher as well, are you speaking of tapered leaders? Very interesting if so, perfect for slide baiters doing albright 60-80lb to 200lb leaders!!!although im a lure fanatic, its a great idea!!! thanks for the tips!

Shakespear made Ugly Stick trolling handles that had a reverse taper. I still have two of them.

Andrew,

My bad. I should have said heavy tapered leader. I can not take credit for this idea as several people have asked for the product. The need was for bait casting and plug/stick bait fishing.

Randolph,

I have a couple of long distance fishing rods by Kilwell, They are 14', made with leading technology, have a 60/40 split and have a reverse taper ferrule. They have good distance capability, very reliable, and I have not had a single issue with the ferrules.

Don

Don Becker