First rod build read all the info on applying decals but fixative didn't seem necessary. However after applying a first coat of finish and letting dry for 24hrs I applied the mhx decal that came with the blank. I used backing to hold and remove decal it went on great. Maybe I should of waited and let the decal stick for a while but I went right ahead and added my second coat of finish. By the time I got done with the guides about 3-5min and came back to the decal and it was coming up in several spots. I had to remove it which later got me to abandone and redo the whole epoxy pad and trim above the reel seat cause it didn't look right without a decal being there.

I started over with a new area and have another mhx decal but it's just their nameplate decal. I don't want to go through all this again and picked up workable fixative. I just want to make sure I do this right and apply the fixative appropriately. I currently have two coats down cause my first showed some blemish spots that needed attention before the decal could be placed.

Jason,

When I apply my decals, I coat them with cp after application and before finishing them. I've never had a decal pull up. The only thing I have used fixative for, is to aid in color retention on iridescent feathers for inlay. I no longer use it for that, though.

Take csre ,

Chris

Hopefully you just got lifting along the edges. After the CP cures, you can shave away the lifted edges with a razor and recoat.

I too use CP or fixative over decals to ensure they are sealed before finish. With fixative, it's best to use 2 thin coats. If you spray too much, it will creep under the edges and lift them. Same fix as in line 1 above however.

This process will prevent lifting during finish and also prevent any fish eyes due to any adhesive along the edges of the label.

Terry

Thanks I'll try the fixative and cover up remaining area to prevent over spray. It's extremely cold where I'm at and I don't have CP and if I order and it comes frozen it's no good so fixative it is

Another thing that helps is to use your thread burnishing tool to burnish the decal down. This provides much higher unit pressure to the decal than just fingertips, and helps keep them down. You need to put a piece of paper between the decal and the tool to prevent damage to the decal.

For decals I make using my inkjet printer, I always spray them with a UV protective/fixative finish while still on the media sheet. This is to fix the image; has nothing to do with keeping the edges down. This step is not necessary with the decals provided with the blanks. I put CP just along the edges of the all decals after installation to prevent edges from coming up. One coat does it, but two won't hurt.