I assume I have an idea as to why to use a spinning guide layout but you know what happens with that, don't like the ass part.
could you please provide the experts version.



good tip on the eva all I do is cork didn't even think of it.

Do you remember what volume the spirol wrap article is in, haven't ben able to find a good one on line yet if it exist.

Thank you for everything
Curt

ps by chance will you be at the EXPO would like to hook up pick brains.

Thinking of moving back north when I retire in a couple of years a lot of trolling going on beside fly fishing I would like to learn a lot more about it for building,
not totally unfamiliar my brother troles down riggers in the big lakes up north land locks, kings lakers, trout.
and or corse my buddy that troles the light weight stuff as noted the other day. don't know much about plainer boards

For building is where I lack the detailed info. what blanks for what exc.

thanks again

Curt

What I do is lay the guides at the 180 With the top glued on At the 180 Then just move the butt guide to 0 then run line though the guides Static Test Adjust Where the line hits the blank add a bumper guide
With presure on the rod I try to keep the line from Pushing on the side of any guide This may cause the guide to be forced to turn
Bringing the line Right or Left is your chorse Put the reel on and lay the rod down flat and see which way you like it
Also check how the line goes onto the reel buy running line out and retriveing it with weight on

Bill - willierods.com

Bill's last sentence is important. Letting a bunch of line out and then reeling in with a bit of tension on the line.

If you find that the line is stacking on one side of the rod, you can take the first or butt guide and either rotate it slightly left, or slightly right to minimize the line stacking.

If, when you reel in line, you find line rubbing on the rod or on any guide, tweak the placement of the guides or the angle orientation of the guide or guides moving the line from the top of the rod to the bottom.

You normally want the 2nd guide to be a guide that lets the line be very close to the rod blank. If you use a tall guide, you will be getting constant pressure on the bottom of that guide when both casting as well as retrieving the line.

When your guide train is set up correctly, the line should hardly touch any of the guides at all during a cast or a retrieve with light line pressure. You should only be getting line pressure on a guide, when the rod is really loaded as is the case when catching a nice fish.

Also, the old adage still applies with respect to the number of guides used in a guide train. Use ONLY enough guides to allow the blank to be properly loaded. More than that, you are just adding weight and line drag to the rod's setup.

A typical spiral wrapped rod will use 2-3 fewer guides than the same blank wrapped in a conventional casting rod configuration. With the line on top of the blank, more guides are needed to keep the line free of the blank.

Good luck



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/12/2015 08:02AM by roger wilson.

I have built a jot of rods with a spiral most for down rigger fishing however more and more requests for casting rods and even Halibut rods.with the spiral wrap. I have always been a believer that all rods should load from the bottom of the blank. I also think the Eva foam grip is much better than cork if the rod is going to be fished out of rod holder, that said an even better choice mite be a product called slick butt it is a nylon composite and very durable you night think about a slick butt with a Eva four grip. I some what disagree with less guide the stress still has to br distributed threw the blank as determined by a stress test. the 8" 2" down rigger rods i sell have 10 guides.