Im disapointed in the out come of some cork handles I applied. Im always getting a little glue or something else on them during application. This time I applied saran wrap. Every thing was fine but had to clean the small seams around the reel seat where it meets the cork. I wiped i the Rod Bond with a clean rag then wiped all with water around the cork etc. Of course the cork got wet and changed color. the next day no change on color. tried lite sanding but too much will screw up my grip. I found the same discoloration on composit cork as regular cork. Once you get anything on the cork it just absorbs the product. ??

Made a mistake , I read where Rod Bond could be cleaned with water Clean up with epoxies is better with alcohol.Dont know what I was thinking.

Where did you read that RodBond could be cleaned off with water? Surely not on the jar?

The real trick is to get that bead of epoxy out of the joint before the mating pieces fully seat. A pipe cleaner, or even a corner of a folded paper towel can be used to pull that bead of adhesive out of that last bit of joint before the pieces are seated. This will eliminate at least some of the problem.

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after you apply the clear wrap on the clean cork use a hair dryer ah it will shrink down to a tight fit an keep the cork clean till you are finished the rod
this is only applyed to the handle after it is finished , this is only to keep it clean only cheep shrink tubing for a part time builders to cut cornners an keep the handles clean

William Sidney
AK

Bill,
When gluing on a handle and completing a rod, stay on top of the rod build at all times.

If epoxy has not cured, alcohol will do a decent job of cleaning up the epoxy.

But once the epoxy has begun to cure, but has not set up completely, alcohol does not do a very good job of removing the partially cured glue.


Rather, Use XYLENE. Xylene, or Acetone is a much stronger solvent (also more toxic) so does a much better job of cleaning partially cured glue.

I keep a bunch of stiff tooth brushes on hand. As you clean up the grip and reel seat, use the tooth brush dipped in solvent to remove any trace of epoxy. Recheck every few minutes to be sure that more glue does not ooze out of the joints. As soon, as you notice any surplus glue, get on it right away to remove it with the solvent and tooth brush.

I have never found that wrapping part of the rod or reel seat or blank with tape or wrap to prevent the glue intrusion.

Just stay on top of it with a good stiff tooth brush and good strong solvent to keep the rod perfect.

Any time that you are using a solvent stronger than Alcohol, be sure to use it only with excellent ventilation. i.e. forced air, open windows, or outside, or a good venting system.

Be safe

Thanks for all your help guys. Tom did my due diligence before posting I did read it I cant believe I did it.

You are using TOO much rod bond
You do not need much at all This Stuff is That Good

I put my rings on a threaded rod I also adjust them so each ring is AS LEVEL as can get with the next ring
When satisfied I run a mark along one side To mark them This will be sanded off

Three dabs on a ring Lay the next on and turn 6 - 7 turns Spreads the bond Then do the next

Bill - willierods.com

something i use for cleaning adhesive (before it sets) from joints between reel seats and grips - and from locknut threads - is a commom "pipe cleaner" with a drop or two of denatured alcohol on it. the pipe cleaner is a piece of light wire with a fuzzy material twisted in. they are usually used to clean the stems of tobacco pipes, but work very well for tight spot clean up jobs. they also bend into helpful shapes for reaching small spots!!

rog

Ditto the denatured Alcohol. Its all you need. Plus it drys really fast so you can just blow on the area you are cleaning to find out if you missed any epoxie.