Morning. Learning to turn. Currently turning birch bark. I need advice on how to make the grip the exact same diameter throughout the full length.
Also, after going through the full series of grits to get it completely smooth , what do you guys recommend for a finish? I want to bring out any golden tones it may have.
Finally, I've been studying you tube tutorials. Are there any hands on classes in Michigan?
Thanks guys.

Harry T. Bell

Harry,
I'm new to rod building, but I've made my fair share of sawdust over the years...
Using a pair of calipers, make several grooves to the desired depth (diameter) evenly spaced along the length of the workpiece. Remove the excess from between the grooves and you're done. Can't help with the finish, still learning.

The only way I've been able to make the diameter the "exact" same throughout the length of the turned piece is to use a duplicator on my lathe, but you can get pretty close if you sand gradually and check diameters at different locations periodically.

For a finish, there are a few choices depending on the level of protection you're after. If I were wanting a birch bark grip that will be "completely" sealed, I'd turn my piece down to a diameter just larger than my final target size, then apply a wood stabilizer/hardener (Minwax makes one that's available almost anywhere) and let dry in a well ventilated garage/shop for a couple of days before final shaping. This greatly reduces tear outs or pits during your final turning and leaves a very smooth surface. Having said that, it also adds a little more weight than I'd like.

As a result, most of my birch bark grips are just finished with Danish Oil instead. I apply 3-4 coats within an hour of each other - AFTER final sanding. The Danish Oil tends to penetrate into the birch interior a little better than Tru Oil does. It also dries faster, and doesn't leave a "sticky" finish like Tru Oil - which I personally can't stand. It also tends to turn the birch bark a slight golden yellow. There are stained colors of Danish Oil available, but I've always used the Natural for my grips. This leaves me with a light-weight grip that endures the elements throughout years of abuse. I occasionally fine sand my old grips and add another coat of Danish oil as they start showing some signs of wear.

Some people add a topping of urethane like Permagloss as a final coat. Although this is very durable protection, you lose the "velvety" feel that makes birch bark such a desirable medium to use.

I strongly disagree with the above comment regarding Tru-Oil! If done correctly, it does not leave a "sticky" finish! Tru-Oil is primarily a gun stock finish, and would not be used if it left a "sticky" finish. It may be that it is being applied before each coat can dry properly. You cannot apply Tru-Oil coats an hour apart.

I use Tru-Oil on both my wood and Birch Bark grips. It seals well and brings out the grain and color very well.

Do you use turning tools? or are you just doing everything by sanding. It is easy to get an even diameter while using a tool rest and very sharp tuning tools, then having your sandpaper stuck to a hard surface. I use double stick tape and 3/8" lexan.

Harry, while I'm no expert turner I have found that I get really good results using a Easy Wood tools mid or mini sized rougher with the R2 cutter. I rough to round then do as Kent does and make a series of depth cuts and connect the dots so to speak. then sand using a backer board. message me and maybe if I'm out your way soon I could stop by and show you how I do it.

I use turning tools. Can you explain what you meant by lexan and 3/8" tape? Thanks

Did you mean you cut the grooves WITH the calipers?

Harry,
You use a thin gouge to cut the groove, checking frequently with the calipers to be sure that you do not go too far.

If I do this, I cut so that I am about 1/8th or 1/4 inch over size. Then, I do the final reduction to size with various grades of paper on a board that is as long as the handle.
By using the long board and sanding the entire grip at the same time, lets one get a very constant diameter, on the round object that you turned with the turning tools.

The turning tool, held steady on the tool rest lets you get the object round. You also have to have a stiff enough object so that the object is not flexing as you turn. If the object is flexing, you will not be able to do as good a job as if the object is a solid non flexing object.

This is why, I use a mandrel that is as large as possible without being larger than the blank on which it will fit. If the grip still flexes, then I will do the turning in sections. I will use a caliper to insure that the ends of the object are the same size, but slightly over. Then, when I glue the grip together and do the final turning, I just have to touch up the glue joint and bring the joint down to the final size. On some very long tennessee style grips that are going on small blanks, I will make the grips in as many as 4 sections to minimize flexing before doing the final glue and finish.

Be safe

get a small piece of wood and wrap 36 - 40 grit sandpaper over it -Sanding block
Set your calipers to the size you want the piece
sand the piece CHECK SEVERAL TIMES -- Make Sure The workpiece is Secure Safty Glasses are also a good thing
When it starts to get close Go finer paper Check often as to not take too much off
I also use a Rasp to shape
[www.homedepot.com]

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/16/2014 11:13AM by bill boettcher.

There is some good information above and some not so good.

Probably the easiest way for a novice turner to get a uniform diameter cylindrical shape is to combine some of the better advice from the above posts. If you have a lot of material to remove, then you best bet is to turn with a tool oversize, then finish sand. Turner's calipers are helpful, but you can make a simple "go, no-go" gauge by cutting a "U" shape from some very thin stock where the distance across the "U" is equal to a desired size greater than your finished grip size. If you have really sharp tools, then shoot for a turned diameter about 1/8" larger than your finished size. If you are not confident in the sharpness of your tools, leave a little more safety factor and set your gauge at about 3/16 of an inch larger.

Sand to final size using abrasive paper affixed to a flat true surface. Work your way through the various paper grades starting with coarse grits and finishing with finer papers. Someone possessing a medium to high skill level can probably sand with a thin strip held vertically against the spinning horizontal grip , moving it back and forth over the grip, but most people can improve the quality of their sand job with a "backed" abrasive paper vs free paper.

Use a second homemade "U" gauge or a set of turner's calipers to check on the diameter as you go.

In an old-school production setting (not using modern CNC turning equipment), a sanding pattern would be made where two end guides would be held against the turning mandrel and the sanding pattern, in this case a flat surface parallel to the axis of rotation, would be brought to bear against the rotating stock. This approach assures some degree of repeatability among various turned components, but the idea could be adapted and used to give you a high level of precision if that is an important consideration. This is a low-tech low-cost method of achieving a similar level of repeatability that an aftermarket pattern or "tracer" lathe attachment provides. I actually use both approaches when I need to make matched sets of turned grips, I rough turn with a pattern duplicator mounted to my lathe, but I still finish sand with a sanding pattern.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/16/2014 12:52PM by John E Powell.

The lexan is 3/8" thick and about 1 1/2"s wide and I put double stick tape on it and then put the sand paper on top of that.

Randy,
Another thing that I use is an aluminum t bar that has sand paper glued to it.
However, I don't use the sandpaper that is glued to the surface. Rather, I just use the sand paper as a gripper to place used paper on the channel to sand. When the paper wears, I just place another hand held paper on the sand paper affixed to the aluminum channel and continue. A coarse piece of sticky sand paper makes a good gripping surface for the other paper and thus paper changes are instant.

Be safe

Roger, sounds good too. :<)