Instead of going to the auto body shop, I used Krylon on a graphite rod. I have three coats on and it is chipping. What did I do wrong? I did not place a finish like spar finish for a final coat.

Any suggestions will be of help I just finished wrapping the guides and if there are any suggestions besides pulling them off I would appreciate your comments

Thanks

If you didn't put any type of clear top coat over the paint you can expect the paint to chip if you bump the rod against something or other. I've never seen any painted blank that wouldn't chip when dropped or bumped hard against an object even with an automotive clear coat.

What did you do Befor you put the paint on ???
prep - sand - wash ???

Bill - willierods.com

Single part enamels and latex paints aren't particularly resistant to chipping. Nature of the beast I'm afraid.

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Thanks guys, I am going to repaint using the thread finish and a drop or color Will that work?

Yes, but it will make the rod heavy and somewhat less responsive. And, you're apt to find that epoxy will eventually also either peel or chip. It's not a really good blank coating.

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Somebody told me to use permagloss, that's what I'm going to try. I painted mine with a two part automotive paint though, I'm sure it's much tougher than spray paint. I think I read that permagloss can melt some paints though.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/11/2014 11:59AM by Shawn Engel.

It can. Test it on a small area first, or on a scrap blank painted with the same stuff.

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Thanks everyone for your advice. One more question. I was in the hardware store and picked up a can of Ultra Cover Clear Gloss Rust-Oleum. Not sure I want to use it but looking to see if I should give it a try as a final coat.Remember, I messed up and placed the guides on a blank I painted with krylon.

Will this work or just make it worse?

It's not likely to be any harder than the Krylon. It'll work, sure, but still not going to provide an absolutely non-chip surface.

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You never said what type of Krylon you used. I have been using the Krylon fusion with zero problems. It is designed to paint flexible items and it has a ton of flex in it. In fact most of the rods that I have painted have been fiberglass and flex all the way into the butt. Never had one issue and I know the three wt of mine has been fished alot. It is very important to read the can directions and let the paint not dry but fully cure before adding another coat. I usually do 2-3 coats of the krylon fusion depending on how well I do with the coats. Then I use a spray on poly to protect the paint. I do all of this before I put any components onto the rod. I would bet most spray paints would hold up IF you let them cure not dry before adding the next coat. If the first layer never cures it will never bond and will chip away. Fusion for example is Dry to the touch after 15mins, Dry to handle after 1hr. Your recoat window is before 24hrs or after 7days. But from the can, " fully chip-resistant after 7days."



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/14/2014 01:23AM by Jimmy Crain Jr.

Thanks Jimmy That was the problem I am sure. I will be more careful with the 2nd and 3rd coats

Jimmy Crain Jr Wrote:
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> Then I use a spray on poly to
> protect the paint.
I just used fusion for the first time on a fiberglass blank. Just for clarification, are you talking about a spray on polyurethane? If so, does it flex with the blank?
Thanks in advance!