After looking around the forum, I just cant seem to find a specific answer (or at least one that seems to suit me). So, let me ask a different version of an old question. If I paint a blank and want to give said paint extra protection WITHOUT the final finish cracking down the road after the blank has been subjected to normal use, what should I use? Is it automotive clear coat, polyurethane, or what? Does anyone know what the factories use on their painted rods as a top coat? I'm looking for something that will hold up for a long time.

I had a auto body friend paint several blanks for me and they turned out great. He added pearl/metal flake, totally unique but similar to what I see on RodGeeks web site. I used a top coat of permaglas for the final protection. From what I learned on this site and other forums, you don't want the paint to just "dry" but to "cure" so it's best to wait maybe a week before putting on the PG. Remember that painting the blank could result in voiding any of the warranty.

Hi Chris

I tried to find the right answer on this forum and others. Let me tell you that there is no straight answer. So many guys are using different techniques it can be very confusing and frustrating. A lot of people say permagloss is the way to go. But with that you will,find many techniques on how to apply it because it cures so quickly. I just bought a bottle. I want to try it but I haven't found a method to apply it yet that suits me. I am curious to see what responses you get to this post.

Automotive guys and rod makers I believe use 2 part urethanes. Rod guys I think dip the blanks.

Mike if you read this how do you apply the PG?

Thank You,

Chris Tulk

None of the commercial rod makers apply a color coat and then a clear overcoat. It's all done in one step - color/gloss. Most use urethanes or polyurethanes.

..............

you can't go wrong with either Premagloss or the Rod Dancer equivalent . Only thing is they are not as deep a shine as a two part type auto clear. They are more like an eggshell finish. If you are looking for a thin finish the two part auto is not the way to go. The depth comes at a price. The others can and should be applied as this a possible and in several coats to get the desired appearance.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

Hi Fred

How do you apply the Permagloss to a blank?

Thank You,

Chris Tulk

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> None of the commercial rod makers apply a color
> coat and then a clear overcoat. It's all done in
> one step - color/gloss. Most use urethanes or
> polyurethanes.
>
> ..............

Tom,

So, for instance, when I look at a cross section of say, a white Duckett rod, I can clearly see a layer of paint (or some type of color layer) on the blank, yet the finish has a nice shine. So based on your answer, this is a one step process and I assume the urethane or poly is mixed into the color medium?

It's a colored gloss urethane paint. Note that most gloss spray paints are colored enamels. Most paints you've probably worked with in your life were one step products where the color was part of the material.

There are modern day processes where cleat coats are applied over a flat colored base but this adds weight, enough to make a difference on some fishing rods.

..............

Hi,

Visited a major blank factory several years ago. They used a 2 part epoxy finish just like we do and used a squeegee system to apply it.

Capt Neil Faulkner

Chris Tulk,

in order to give proper credit I'll tell you that Joe Kassuba of [www.hisrodshop.com] of Kennewick WA taught me.

Get a new soft sponge,
cut maybe a 1/2 credit card size piece about 1/4 - 3/8th" thick,
cut a hole in the center of sponge relative to butt diameter ,
put the sponge on tip of rod then saturate the sponge with PG around the hole.
pull/squeegee sponge down the rod,
might be easier with two people, as one is squeegeeing another is turning the rod.
Don't backtrack if you miss a spot. Wait an hour or so give it a second coat.
Of course wear latex/nitrile gloves.

Thanks Joe.

Hi Mike/Joe

If your cutting a hole the size of the butt diameter how does it make contact at the tip? The method sounds doable but o am not seeing the hole size properly I guess? In fact it wouldn't really contact the blank until the butt end?

Thank You,

Chris Tulk

Hello Chris.

Tom had an article in RodMaker Volume-15 Issue-3 Page 22, Called "Blank Coating Tool" and is what you need for E-Z PermaGloss and LumaSeal applications.

It gives step by step instructions on how to make the coating tool.


Tight Wraps.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.