I would appreciate any comments on salt water capable hook keepers of the sizes compatible with inshore spinning rods/popping rods. My limited experience is that the high quality guides I buy are very corrosion resistant, but the keepers are not. Yes, I know about washing the rods. I have used high quality fly guides for keepers, and they work fine, but would like to know if anyone knows of keepers that are equivalent to high quality guides for corrosion resistance.

I have found reccomendations for the REC RHK keeper, which appears to be the same titanium-nickel alloy as their guides, but cannot find an image. Anyone help? A post on another forum answering the same question said to use a REC guide, which is of course very close to my use of high quality single foot fly guides as keepers.

Michael -
One thing you might consider is using a small size guide - same as the corrosion resistant types you like as a keeper. It will be as resistant as the guides - and match the overall build.

Ken , that is exactly what I've done, but they don't look as "refined" as a drop shot keeper or a simple loop keeper. Single foot fly guides that match the guides on the rod actually work as well as any other keepers. Size 5 or 6. They can be bent to have a lower, sleeker profile, too.

[hydrafishing.com]

The CC finish is designed for saltwater use. Titanium coming.

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Hello Alex.

What is "CC Finish", you said "Titanium coming", so what are the "CC's" made of ??

Tight Wraps.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

Small REC NiTi snake guides are immune to corrosion, even if you don't wash down your tackle after use in the salt. You may be thoroughly assured that something else will corrode on a salt water rod before an REC snake guide hook keeper does.

Regarding the Hydra "designed for salt water" keeper, I was hoping for real experience or something that we all understand as salt water safe, like titanium. I can guarntee you that most stainless keepers are not salt water capable.

Given the endorsement of the REC NiTi snake guides, I think they may be the best option I've heard of. The shape will certainly shed any line that goes over it. Sounds good.

Michael,
I also make inline spinning lures and poppers etc.
i use the stainless steel or titanium wire i have at hand.
Folded double in a sort of S shape with the end flattened out.
Bent through a small jig made with panel pins; i have yet to have one fail.

But Lou, you have to know that "stainless steel" can be of various compositions, some not very good in salt at all, some quite good. None as good as Titanium. I have never had one fail either, but I've had them show a lot of stain that seeps into the winding. I like the idea of the REC snake. They cost less than $3, which is not expensive for the corrosion resistance and toughness they have, in my opinion.

Bob -

CC is a coating on stainless. No it's not Ti, but it offers increased protection.

One item of note -

I see more issues with hookkeeper corrosion due to dissimilar metals as opposed to salt related corrosion. Even titanium alloys are subject to galvanic corrosion. Very apparent when hooks are left in keepers long term - regardless of hookkeeper brand.

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Thanks Alix.


Tight Wraps.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

I make my own out of 316L tig welding rods .030 and .045 dia and they last forever.

Tom, the 316 SS is what the better of the stainless guides are made of (yes, I know, not a corrosion resistant as titanium), higher nickel content, much better than the 304. Please clarify, you get no staining when used in salt, when treated properly, for many years? thanks

Not sure about the nickel but stainless 316L is low carbon and I get no staining or tarnish using in saltwater in 3 years.Thats a about 2 hundred fishing trips and I don't rinse them as good as I should. I just looked at one, it's 3 years old and there's no rust or tarnish. Looks like I just install it on the rod. I can email a pic if anyone needs one.

Thanks, Tom, that's the kind of input I was looking for, solid experience. From what I find in looking at the steel specs the only difference between 316 and 316L is the lower carbon in the 316L, which is to reduce problems with welding. Both have the high nickel content that contributes to the better corrosion resistance of 316 over 304.

Sounds like another thing builders have to worry about

Why not just get rid of the 316 and just have the 316L

The KISS methoud -- lord have mercy

Bill - willierods.com

The higher carbon level of 316 gives it higher tensile and yield strength, especially over 800F. 316L is not as good for high temp applications like exhaust manifolds but it is better for lower temp applications where welding is involved. That's why welding wire/rods are made of 316L. I doubt if you will find different grades of steel unless there is a good reason for them.