Perhaps I am asking a non obvious question.
But from time to time I read comments on the forum about keeping a rod level when the rod is in a dryer, or when it is in a wrapper to both benefit the use of the wrapper and to insure final finish quality.

I simply am asking the question. Why wouldn't one always have a rod level when he/she is working on the rod.

I am making a couple of basic assumptions.
1. The floor of the shop or room where one works is level.
2. The bench or table or surface where one works is level. i.e. all of the legs are the same length and there is no big warp in the top of a bench or table top.
3. A hand wrapper has equal supports at locations where a rod is supported.
4. A power wrapper has adjustable rod supports that are kept at the same line as the center of the rotating chuck on a wrapper.
5. A dryer that uses a rod stand is adjusted so that the rod stand is at the same level as the center of the drying chuck.

It just seems to me that all of the afore mentioned items are simple common sense and basic tidy workmanship that one does routinely on a daily basis.

Assuming that these assumptions are all true, why does one even have to ask or do any thing special to have a level rod when working on a custom rod?

I suppose, that if the situation does occur where a rod is not level, then one of these basic assumptions that I have made must not be in place.

Just a thought.

Be safe

Hey Roger.

I think your point #5 is the most common occurrence where rods may get off the level line. If I've adjusted supports for a large rod with a different length and taper, one has to be sure to readjust for the next rod length and taper. If I go from a Halibut rod that is short and larger diameter, to a 4 Wt fly rod, this would be pretty obvious, but moving from a 4Wt fly rod to a 11' switch rod is less obvious. I find the biggest changes when I have to change positions of the supports due to the different lengths of the blank.

It's always a good idea to check the level as soon as you mount the rod in the wrapper/finisher first thing. If the builder gets in a hurry, this sometimes is missed.

Coach Wooden always said: "Be quick but never hurry".

Terry

Terry,
Good point.
Not a bad idea to keep a short level around to always double check.

Be safe

I don't have a shop, so do the winding and finishing on a table in a bedroom, sort of cramped, with a dresser with drawers that may have to be opened when I have a rod tip from a drying rod (home made non-adjustable drying rig) almost up against them. But, if I move the rod so that the tip support is not in my drying rig but is in one support of my home made, non-adjustable hand wrapper, the rod will be at an angle which clears the drawers to opening. Alas, those two supports are not at the same level so I have to shim the drying motor with a book. Leveling by eyesight is fine, never had a problem.

Michael

Maybe you should just take any draw in the way Completely Out and lay on the floor

I have a small room and have similar problems But I overcome and addapt

Plus you could make up some spacers that can be put underneath the rollers to adjust Books Sections of a cardboard box cut to size

Bill - willierods.com

Don't you want the level through the center of the blank? Just adjusting so that the rod stand is at the same level as the center of the drying chuck doesn't really make it level does it? I always level by eye since I haven't come up with a way to make an easy and accurate measure of level through the center of the blank. I guess I could put a level on top and bottom and match the bubble but this seems like overkill.

what do others do?

I level with a small level layed on top of the blank
Never had any problems

Bill - willierods.com

Roger, the cumulative effects of minor variances in your assumptions could be large. Not everyone use equipment like yours. Many have fixed rather than adjustable height supports, so they may need to do something "special." Using a small level to make their "special" adjustments can avoid the problem of epoxy on an unlevel blank!

Jay, it's not something I use, since my supports are fixed height, but you can make a centerline jig. I'm sure you can find a fancy dedicated too, but you can make one out of a piece of wire clothes hanger. Epoxy the hanger section vertically into a wood block. Bend the wire so the free end is at the same height as you chuck center. Assuming you are working on a long table, move the jig down the rod and center the rod by eye using your jig at each support.

Joe

Just a little more info :: the motor stand is some time not true so you have to figure out where it points with a steel rod in it's jaws an make that also level . them work the rod level on the same plane with it , that will stop a lot of rods working its way out of the jaws when drying , even at that I put a big ball of loose fitting tape on my rod then clamp to it , that way you have a
small flex joint on the project & it won't come out of jaws when drying a project

William Sidney
AK

This came with my Clemens Lathe when I bought it. It is the Same Height as the Chuck Centerline. Should be Easy to Duplicate

[www.rodbuilding.org]

I use a narrow strip of wood that was just laying around.....marked the chuck center on it with a sharpie and just check the blank as I go toward the tip.

______________________________________
Super Tight Lines......Don

Jay, you don't need to be that precise. I don't even think most people would need a level to achieve good enough leveling of the rod.

I find a small level form Home Depot works well and is FAST

How do you level your rods ???

Bill - willierods.com