Hi All,

Please let me know if this plan will produce a quality rod finish. The rod is 9' rated at 30-60 lbs its a heavy jig stick.

1. Strip (except for existing tuna cord deckhand wrap); Sand and Clean rod
2. 2 coats -- 2K automotive epoxy primer
3. 2 coats -- Black urathane paint + hardner
4. 2 coats -- automotive clearcoat + hardener
5. 2 coats -- Black urathane paint + hardener on tuna cord deckhand wrap to prevent reel from slipping

I have all autobody paint tools to apply the finish.

I also plan to use clearcoat over the guilde wraps instaed of flex coat.

Sorry for the newbee post. I'm waiting for my Basic Rod Wrapping Guide from Flex Coat to arrive.

Thanks in advance
V.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/07/2014 04:43PM by Vincent Misquez.

If the blank is properly stripped down and prepped you do not need the primer. Use a product called bulldog which is an adhesion promotor/flex agent. If your using an automotive basecoat/clearcoat system, the basecoats do not require hardener. make sure you have adequate ventilation and breathing respirator as the chemicals in these products are highly toxic. Where were you planning on spraying? You are not going to get enough build with the clearcoat to protect your wraps. Refinish the rod first, then do your wraps and finish them with flexcoat or another brand of finish made for wraps
Tony

Thanks Tony,

I do have Bulldog and I'll add it to the paint system. I want to use a little primer since the resin coat is thin in some spots and I can see the mesh weaves. I'm spraying outdoors and I will flex coat the wraps.

Thanks again for your input.
V.

Are you talking about doing all 5 steps?

..........

You better check with a Auto Body Supplier
As far as I know all finishes use what is called an Activator This is used so the finish or clear DRYS
They are a Two Part system

Bill - willierods.com

I plan on doing all five stpes with a few modifications.

After further research, I decided to skip the hardener but add 1 part bulldog to 3 parts when sparying the folowing.

1. primer (2K system) 1:3
2. base coat 1:3
3. ready mixed clerar coat 1:3
.
I also my just use one coat of each and will test the rod action after each stage is cured and dry. I'm trying to bring new life to this rod. It deserves another round on the cattle boats.

Thanks for your time.
V.

You're going to add a great deal of unnecessary weight to this rod, although it's heavy enough to begin with that you aren't apt adversely affect it. Still, you can get roughly the same results with a lot less effort and material.

..............

After mixing up the base coat It can also be thinned if it comes out thick
Try prepping a piece of scrap well Put thin coats on just till it is covered Then a THIN coat of clear

Don't know this bulldog stuff but if it is any type of auto finish one nice thin coat of clear should be plenty Then you will have less weight on the rod

Bill - willierods.com

Bulldog does not get mixed with the paint. It gets sprayed directly onto the part, then the base coat is applied after the bulldog flashes off. about 5-10 minutes.As I said previously, it is an adhesion promotor/flex agent. It is used on automotive bumper covers prior to applying the basecoat.If you are using a urethane black, it should be plenty shiny and durable enough without putting a clearcoat on top of it. wait about a week after painting for the finish to fully cure before wrapping.
Tony

In that case there should be good adhesion
The bulldog Then two thin coats ( to cover the blank ) of base color And a nice coat of clear Less material less weight

Bill - willierods.com

This may seem like a dumb answer but I think it would be worth the peace of mind & time you will spend refinishing the rod. Why not take it in to Seeker or have a shop like Fishermans Depot send it in for you. That way you will have a blank that has been refinished perfectly by the people who built it. In talking to Mo, the owner at Fishermans Depot it only cost about $35.00 to have it done.

Ed,
Not dumb at all. As long as the final color is achievable through seeker I like it.

As far as adhesion promoter goes, if proper prep is done and using acceptable top coat none needed. Wasted time, weight and money.

Flex additive evaporates out of finish as it cures. Also a wasted step. Use a quality clear coat that is designed to stay flexible, or go with a finish designed for top coating rods.