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removing burs / pokeys from finish?
Posted by:
michael evans
(---.hsd1.or.comcast.net)
Date: January 19, 2014 09:58PM
well my second coat of finish finally dried and after closer inspection i noticed that there are quite a few pieces of thread poking out in a few wraps. ive never had this problem before and figure it must be from me being overly excited on this rod and rushing through it. im thinking about trying to use some finger nail clippers and trim them off or using my exacto knife. this is only my 6th rod but im pretty disappointed in myself and hate a half @$$ job. maybe i should just leave it on there as a reminder to slow down, which being 22 can be hard some times.anyways what is the usual process in repairing this sort of thing? thanks again everyone and i really appreciate all the people who pitch here and make this site a great resource for the newbie's like myself. Re: removing burs / pokeys from finish?
Posted by:
John E Powell
(---.buffalo.res.rr.com)
Date: January 19, 2014 10:03PM
Take a double edge razor to them (sharper than a single edge) and trim them off, recoat with a thin layer of finish and it will look perfect. Re: removing burs / pokeys from finish?
Posted by:
Terry Turner
(---.hsd1.or.comcast.net)
Date: January 20, 2014 09:17AM
From your description, it sounds like you know the best solution already. Make a clean wrap to start with and no worries with any fuzzies sticking through the finish. John gave you the perfect recovery solution. Lessons are hard but we've all learned them. Your next rod will be perfect on the first round!
Terry Re: removing burs / pokeys from finish?
Posted by:
Donald Becker
(---.hawaiiantel.net)
Date: January 20, 2014 02:10PM
Years ago, the fuzzies were more prevalent. In Hawaii it was a standard practice to use a propane torch to burn off the fuzzies just prior to the epoxy application. Quickly passing a clean flame over the wraps should reduce your problem. Don Becker Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/20/2014 02:11PM by Donald Becker. Re: removing burs / pokeys from finish?
Posted by:
michael evans
(---.pools.spcsdns.net)
Date: January 21, 2014 02:26AM
Well guys after putting on the last coat after cutting burs off and letting dry I realized I have some serious finish problems. First it didn't come out even on like 6 wraps,2nd there are what looks to be Like pockets of air trapped under 2 of my ferrule wraps. And 3rd I can seebrush marks in 2 wraps. I have no idea what has happened, idk if its from continuing to put finish on in my 35 degree garage or.what . The epoxy was very warm and mixes extremely well before application and flowed very evenly I was actually extremely satisfied with the way it looked after I applied it. I used flex coat on my other rods and havnt had a single problem so far , so idk if maybe the threadmaster is more temp sensitive or if maybe I continued to over heat after application or its my cold garage. The wraps that did turn out looked beautiful. Any thoughts on these imperfections? Re: removing burs / pokeys from finish?
Posted by:
Donald Becker
(---.hawaiiantel.net)
Date: January 21, 2014 03:42AM
Hi Michael,
Perhaps a little more information may be helpful to the folks. Was the thread nylon or NCP type? Did you use color preserver? If you check your spool of thread, can you see what might be oil drops? Did you use a torch or alcohol flame to heat your wraps to assure good flow and penetration into the wraps? Was the thread that you used made for rod wrapping? If you run the thread through your fingers, does it slide easily or have a hint of drag? Did you use small or large batches of epoxy? Did you apply the epoxy quickly or take a little extra time? I can't even think at 35 degrees. It's impressive that you can work effectively at that temperature. Don Don Becker Re: removing burs / pokeys from finish?
Posted by:
michael evans
(---.pools.spcsdns.net)
Date: January 21, 2014 11:33AM
Donald - nylon,no cp,no oil that I could tell but I have working mans hands that are thoroughly doused in oil everyday but I wash them to my best, ability.I use a brooder / heat lamp to heat and keep epoxy flowing. As far as how the thread slides, I'll have to check. I mix 3cc each part even if I'm only doing 2 wraps. And I take my time but when the epoxy starts to harden from its very fluid state ill mix another batch. Re: removing burs / pokeys from finish?
Posted by:
John E Powell
(168.169.226.---)
Date: January 21, 2014 01:28PM
I think temperature is playing a big role in your problems. I just can't imagine how one can effectively apply epoxy at that temperature. Even if pre-warmed, it's probably cooling very quickly to the point it won't flow out as it should. I think it is, for lack of a technically precise word, gelling and you are forced to attempt to manually move it around (brush strokes).
You might just want to wait for an opportunity with household circumstances that will allow you to apply the finish inside at normal room temps. Re: removing burs / pokeys from finish?
Posted by:
michael evans
(---.pools.spcsdns.net)
Date: January 22, 2014 12:04AM
Well thanks again guys I took my first whack at stripping down the bad wraps and have successfully got all of them cleanly off so far.. there will be no more putting epoxy on at freezing temps. Next on my list when I get some extra cash will be rod drying box. I really appreciate everyone's input thanks again Re: removing burs / pokeys from finish?
Posted by:
bill boettcher
(---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: January 22, 2014 09:44AM
The cold temps and warmed finish One warm One cold maybe helping to keep moisture in the finish
Try a test without warming the finish A light finish would work better Bill - willierods.com Re: removing burs / pokeys from finish?
Posted by:
Fred Trahan
(---.br.br.cox.net)
Date: January 22, 2014 04:19PM
Hi Michael,
I use Pro-Kote, and do have a small shop with a smaller heater. I warm my epoxy up and the cup I'll be mixing in. once applied, I have can lights pointed at them from a distance of 2' or so (drying box will come in the future for me). But with the warm expoxy in the warm mixing cup at a room temp above 55degrees, the bubbles are almost not existant on a light coat - and can apply a light heat from a flame to burst them so the coat will even up. Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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