I am rebuilding a Century Carbon Metal Express beach caster. The tip section is unground, but the bottom end of the tip section appears to be ground and lacquered black. On stripping the blank I used wire wool and Methalayted Spirits to clean off the Hi-Build. This has also removed the black lacquer in places. If I use Plasti kote black spray will it react with Flexi-cote hi-build, should I use a rod finishing varnish, like Bullards to coat the rod first before whipping?
Not having done this before I would like top draw on your experiences.

Mike



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/30/2013 06:23AM by Michael Boughton.

If you want to restore the gloss appearance you'll need to top coat the blank with a clear coating. The Spray-Max epoxy spray has a lot of potential. The best urethane top coatings for the DIY crowd will be either PermaGloss or Lumaseal. I'd swipe them on rather than trying brushing.

................

Tom,

When you say for the DIY guy? Is there a better way if a person opts to go that way. I am assuming professional spray job with urethane or other automotive coating.

Mike

Hi Michael,

Make sure whatever you do try to do a test spot! I am having a heck of a time with a blank I sprayed with Testors Lacquer then top coated with a dupli color automotive clear coat. Once I put the flex coat epoxy finish on it wow, fish eyes everywhere!

Thanks

Went out to buy the Plasti Kote spray to be told it's been taken over by Valspar, now a massive range of spray paints all doing different things. I am going to test it on a spare piece of carbon rod first, then keep my fingers crossed.

Let me know how it turns out.

I have used Dupli Color and covered it with clear Works well

Bill - willierods.com

I have done a test piece, a spare piece of carbon rod. First rubbed it down with meths and wire wool. Then sprayed with matt black spray whilst revolving blank in dryer, and allowed to dry 8 hrs. I then used a make up sponge (not mine I might add) and coated with finish and whilst test piece was revolving wiped the product on. This was allowed to dry for about 3hrs. I then did a whipping about 1/2" long and left overnight. The next day I Hi-Built the whipping whith another unmentionable product which suprised me as it dried within 3 hrs. It seems a good job, but will only know fully when I do the bigger area on the rod itself. One thing I did notice was when I was applying the rod sealer it did remove some of the paint, so perhaps a longer drying time might be used. Will report back when the full rod is done.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/03/2013 07:39AM by Tom Kirkman.

Hi Michael,

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