I recently completed my first cross wraps, one above the foregrip and one between the split grip on a new rod I'm planning to give away. It looks like the pencil layout marks I used on the underwap are bleeding out from under the crosswraps pattern after adding my first coat of flexcoat light epoxy. I used two coats of color preserver before epoxying and used a small alcohol torch to pop bubbles. Thread used was prowrap nylon size a, and a small amount of prowrap braid to begin the diamonds. It happened in different isolated areas on both wraps. I didn't think I over applied heat when popping bubbles and didn't think a small pencil dot would react this way. It's the first time I've marked a blank this way with a pencil though. Does anyone know what could cause this fouling of the finish or have any tips? Thanks.

If the thread is a very light color it's possible for this to happen even when using CP. Is it just showing through or does it appear to have smudged-spread out beyond the actual mark itself?

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As tom suggests, showing through without smudging/bleeding is a factor of any or a combination of the following:

light thread over dark mark
loosely packed thread (minute spaces between threads that the mark is showing through)
inadequate cp application

If there is actual bleeding of the mark, you likely either have:

inadequate cp application
incompatability between your cp and mark (preventing the mark from being sealed by the cp)

When laying out thread centers and offset marks for wraps, I prefer to use a set of calipers. I calculate and make a list of my center distances (and adjacent offset centers) to account for blank taper, and adjust the calipers to match each distance, then I turn the caliper's "inside measuring" points to the blank and use the points to scribe a superficial mark into the clear surface finish. The scratch in the clear finish will be light in color and stands out fairly well on dark blanks. Later, when either CP or finish is applied, the scratches fill in as if they never existed. I've never seen a layout mark on any wrap I've done in this manner, and the accuracy of the layout marks is far superior to marking by hand since I can adjust the calipers to .001" and they hold without slipping.

A further advantage to this method is that you can't accidentally wipe away your outer thread cross marks while wrapping your inner marks (or vise-versa) mid wrap.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/17/2013 12:36PM by John E Powell.

If the pencil is water soluble the CP could have caused the bleeding.

It was just a #2 pencil small dot (only size of the point). I would have scored the blank if not having used an underwrap. The underwrap was the bubble gum pink reg nylon. The diamond wrap was a medium red color and the middle of the diamond was silver braid. So the pencil mark is on top of the light color, pink, but beneath the darker color, red. The two coats of cp were generous and no bleeding occurred then. Should I have applied more coats still? It slightly looks like a smudge except upon closer inspection there are what appears to be lines where it followed the thread. It is also perpendicular to the rod axis like it bled directionally when turning. The affected area isn't really bad but @#$%& when spend hours making a wrap as close to perfect as possible and then defects in the finish. John, so do you not use any marks? Just the use of calipers when laying down the thread? Thanks for all the help everyone.

I don't know if this would be any use to you, but I put my center marks on a section of white NCP thread and tape it along the axis on both sides. Then after the first threads are laid down and squared, I clip the ends of these alignment threads and pull them out from under the wrap. No marks, no scratches on the blank. Just another way to do things.

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Brandon,

Just calipers if on a bare or painted area of the blank. If I have an underwrap, I'll spiral the threads on creating the initial crosses, then adjust the crossing points with the calipers; in this way, I'm sort of measuring and marking as I work through the various parts of the wrap. At some points, this is actually easier because if, for example, I have an outer box cross that needs to be .345" from a center cross repeatedly down a wrap, I just pick up the preset calipers and adjust the thread with the caliper points. It's preset and I don't get the small variances you normally will get when you measure by hand.

I found that it does require a higher degree of skill (and some experience) to mark as you go compared to laying it all out ahead of time. For me, the advantage to laying it out ahead of time is that you are better able to judge how the bands of various colors will interact with each other before they are laid down. I think I get a better sense of positive and negative spaces within the wrap. But if I'm doing a wrap that I've done a number of times before, I'll probably determine my main centers and then measure as I go.

I much prefer to have very accurate measurements and lay down the threads and pack and adjust at regular intervals. It's probably not the way to do it if your building rods for a living - you can save a lot of time (and be more profitable) by getting most or all of the thread on the blank and adjusting it at or near the end.

Thanks for the advice fellas. Both methods sound like they have merit and I definitely like the idea neither requires marks. One less variable for trouble. I'm going to give each way a try on my next upcoming wraps. It's always nice to have options. Thanks again for sharing your wisdom.