My tube for my tip top is a little sloppy, It was the closest I could get to the blank, how can I build up the blank or what are other options. Can I build up with tape like a reel seat? Wrap with thread ?

Thanks

Hello Alan.

Yes you can do either, but the thread is best and should be all you need if you can get more than one or two wraps with tape you will have a problem with your tip(centering, water proofing and gap disguise).

Good Day.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

Do I need to cure the thread or just attach as normal ......... once again thank you



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/17/2013 11:46AM by Alan Collier.

I wrap thread on the blank then epoxy over it just enough to get the proper fit for hot melt glue.

Don

I often do this with unusual sized blanks.
I wrap the number of layers of thread on the tip down a couple of inches to enlarge the blank to the correct size for the tip top. . I normally wrap thread on the tip anyway to strengthen the tip area.

After wrapping, I simply use hot melt glue to put on the tip.

Then, when finishing the rod I simply apply guide coating to the tip thread at the same time that I put the coatings on the rest of the guide wraps. Simple and easy.

Be safe

Prep the tip of the blank
tape A thread about 1 " from the tube
Wrap it about three turns to the tip and back
Dry fit the top If it feels good that is the thread to use If not try D thread

If it fits nice Wrap tightly I use 5 min glue in the tube and on the blank
Glue it on

Bill - willierods.com

I won't attach tops to bare thread, if you use hot melt glue you run the risk of the tip spinning since the glue isn't on the blank. If I use thread I will put a super light coat of finish on it. I usually just put a dropof epoxy on the top of the rop, then when it driies instal the tip over that. PErsonally, I prefer to have a loose top than one that fits snug to the blank,

The thread is wrapped in VERY LARGE spaces in between it Two or three turns

The tip is also prepped so the glue is attached to the tube and to the blank tip

The thread is only used to CENTER the top

Then if you want take a drill bit - stick it into the tube and scratch the inside of the tube for a better bight
I have tried to take one off after a week - And had a heck of a time getting it off

If D thread does not work

Get a top that fits

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/17/2013 08:54PM by bill boettcher.

I wasn't referring to your post Bill, the others where they say to wrap a continuous band is what prompted me to post that.

bill boettcher Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The thread is wrapped in VERY LARGE spaces in
> between it Two or three turns
>
> The tip is also prepped so the glue is attached to
> the tube and to the blank tip
>
> The thread is only used to CENTER the top
>
> Then if you want take a drill bit - stick it into
> the tube and scratch the inside of the tube for a
> better bight
> I have tried to take one off after a week - And
> had a heck of a time getting it off
>
> If D thread does not work
>
> Get a top that fits

The tube I am using is my only option, I am not willing to give up using a Fuji tip for an inferior product.
Thanks for all of the tips.... no pun intended

Maybe I'm missing the point of this discussion but why not just get a properly sized tip? In the end it will look and fit better than one that is too large. Most come in half millimeter sizes and if you've got the closest match it won't be large enough to add a layer of thread beneath the tip top. Just asking.

Steve Hartzell
Lake Conroe - Willis, Texas

I faced this problem a while back where my rod tip was a size 8 and the smallest tube for a particular style roller tip I needed was a 10. This was quite a size difference. Since I needed to do this on more than a few rods, I wanted to find the least time consumptive method as this was going to take multiple layers. I built up the first tip with a single solid layer of thread and finish and then sanded it round and smooth removing the slight football shape that had formed from just a bit too much finish. I felt that if I had used a thinner finish or maybe permagloss instead of high build, I would have saved some time.

Since, after sanding the size of the tip was still a little loose, I tried a spiral thread method as Bill described above. This worked very well for me. The tip seemed well centered and the adhesive held the tip well to the finish. The problem I discovered with this method was when I removed the tip. I found that I was left with a somewhat messy situation. Because of the extra space between the threads, there was a lot more adhesive used and when the tip was removed there was a lot more adhesive and unspiraled, loose sticky thread that had to be cleaned up.

Now this was not a huge problem, but in my mind, if I was one of my customers and decided to change a tip, they would be faced with the same situation. I found that if the thread is not sealed under a layer of finish, it will come off with the adhesive leaving the customer with a tip that is too small. I considered this unacceptable, so I decided that, for the ease of end-user tip replacement, I needed to have a finished surface under the tip.

After all was said and done, I felt the easiest and most end-user friendly way to do this was to have the thread layers built up to just undersize of the tip tube, apply a thinner epoxy finish (that built up the tip diameter slightly oversize), then sand lightly until the tip tube fit correctly. I think I would still approach a closer fitment described in the original post in a similar manner.

Steve, they stop with the half sizes once you go over a size 10. And a lot of times you have what you have on hand. When I was ordereing 1's & 2's, I'd always order a larger tip to make sure that it fit the blank - a lot of blanks that say they are a size 8...come as a size 7 or 9 - who knows!

other makers of tip tops are not Inferior just have to look around for a company that may make the tube size you need

Fuji is not the only one around

The sponsors on the left would not be here if they made guides and builders would complain about them

Also it is wise to prep the tip FIRST then measure it Finish will add size to it and you may find the smaller size fits well
It is always smart to get at least two sizes to be sure of fit

Just add the other to your stash for another rod

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/18/2013 03:03PM by bill boettcher.

OK, now I see the problem. I build bass and inshore rods so most of the tips I use are relatively small. Didn't think that as they get bigger there wouldn't be as many choices.

Steve Hartzell
Lake Conroe - Willis, Texas

John,
Really the problem is easily solved. I just use A size thread, wrap as many layers as necessary to get a nice fit for the tip.
Then, I use hot melt glue to attach the tip.
But when using the glue, I heat the glue and as the tip is rotating, apply a nice fill layer of glue onto the threaded tip. The glue penetrates the thread very well and completes the seal. Then, I put a bit more glue in the tip. heat both the tip and the rod tip and apply the tip and align it. I use a craft stick, to clean up any hot excess glue for a clean look.

In doing many of these - have never had one reported to have come loose.

I see no need to add finish, or to leave space between the threads. With the power wrapper, it take a second or two to put on as many layers of thread as are needed to space out the tip. Simple, easy, effective and reliable.

So the entire tip replacement, including gluing the tip takes perhaps 2 or 3 minutes.

Be safe

So when you remove the tip top from the untreated thread, you don't end up with a slinky of thread inside the tip top and attached to the blank? That is why John puts finish on the thread, he's fixing an issue that he had doing it that way.

Roger,

Yes this can be done on the quick, but, as Billy noted above, that is not the gist of my post. I'm thinking down the road. Our fishery uses a lot of braided wire lines; tip replacement becomes a "when" not an "if" scenario. When my customer removes his tip from his rod, I want them to find a finished surface under that tip, not potentially a mess which they might consider as poor craftsmanship on my part. I took the extra steps to avoid the possibility of one of my customers becoming unhappy down the road.