I'm wondering what people are doing to properly locate where a spinning reel seat should be during a build? I have some Fuji VSS split grips which have a pretty long cork on the aft side (relative to most split grips), and I want to use a skin between the fighting butt and the reel seat cork... but my balance point pretty much leaves a very short (2-3 inch or 5-7cm) section of blank exposed. I sort of hate to waste a skin in such a short area, but want to maintain the balance point. I was wondering if anyone has any advice or examples where they moved the reel seat away from the balance point slightly and what did that do to the fishability (new word?) of the rod?

Also, are there any reference charts for seat placement on spinning rods that anyone knows of?

Greg,
If possible, put the reel seat where the rod balances.
If the split grip is too short for the skin, then do it on another rod.

Be safe

Take the rod out side Tape the seat on And PLAY cast it Find the spot that the reel feels the most comfortable for YOU
Behind the seat to the butt is the rear grip If no room for what you want Trim the split sections If it does not balance Make two out of wood or add weight to the butt

Bill - willierods.com

Gregg,

Because spinning seats can be arranged either up-locking or down-locking, not to mention that different models of reel place the reel stem on different places on the reel foot, I like to use the measurement from the reel stem to the butt as the important measurement when setting up a spinning rod. When I fished factory rods, I often found that the handle on my spinning rods to be too long because the seat was put on the rod up-locking and used rear grips with the same length of material as comparable casting rods. This often was enough additional length to make the rod uncomfortable to handle when fighting fish, as the rod butt would constantly be in the way.

I don't know of a chart to use for grip lengths. Everyone has their own rear grip length preferences, and getting this right is an important part of a custom rod. For me, unless I specifically want a rod butt that tucks under my arm, the distance from the reel stem to the butt can't be longer than 9.75". I'll go shorter on rods ~6' or shorter. I don't know of any charts to use, but I use 9.75" from the stem on spinning rods or the trigger on casting rod 6'6"+. I'll use 7.75" for rods 5'6"-6', as that is as short as I like to go because I do a lot of two handed casting. If I build for someone else, I always take the time to ask what lengths they prefer, and why. When building split grips, it's important to figure out the minimum amount of material needed behind the seat. You can always modify the grip if needed.

The important thing is that you can make the rear grip as long as you want, provided that it doesn't interfere with your fishing. A custom fishing rod should be a fishing rod first. Once the ergonomics are right, then take a look at the rod and determine what can be done with the aesthetics. You can build the most beautiful rod in the world, but it will just sit in the rack if it does not fish well.

Joe



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/04/2013 05:39PM by Joe Vanfossen.

Joe nailed it

make it conform to how - what fish you are going for and how you fish it

Worry about HOW PRETTY IT WILL LOOK LATER

Or just build it to some ones specks and have a factory rod

Bill - willierods.com

Thanks gents.... this helps greatly. I saw also another forum where they were talking about no longer than 10 inches from the butt to the stem or trigger, so I think I'll make a custom aft-end cork for the VSS rather than using the factory cork for the seat. I don't see needing as much cork aft of the reel as the factory cork anyway, and it will give me 1/2 inch or more skin space.

It's interesting we talk so often about rod balance, especially in spin or casting rods. I kind of see the point in fly rods... I spoke with another spin rod builder once and he was saying he takes pride to balance within 1/8 ounce difference between fore and aft.... I asked what happens when the customer uses a 3/8 to 3/4 ounce lure? He was blank for a minute then said he hadn't thought of that. I try to stick to balanced, but I don't really know what reel and/or lure weights a customer might use. The reel weight shifting aft or forward slightly does change balance, as does the actual lure weight. And when a fish is on the balance makes no difference. For customers impressing they want balance I have that conversation and ask if they'd like to provide the intended reel and define the lure range? Few do.... and I've never had anyone unhappy for balance. I did have one gent unhappy his rod was so lightweight. He was concerned about strength, and associated weight with strength. I assured him if he stayed in the lure/line range he'd be happy, six months later he ordered another and said he was surprised with the performance even on larger species. Just goes to show how everyone has their perceptions of a "good" rod.

Thanks for the feedback!

You can only balance - so fare -
Lightest guides on the rod tip help But how light can ya go

But when everyone wants light a split grip at the butt does no good Not enough weight to keep the tip of say a 7' rod in balance depending on the material used to make the grip A FULL grip may help Up to the builder Or a heaver material for the grip

Ya got to play with it all That is why it is a Custom Rod

Bill - willierods.com

Gregg,
I think that balance is really important on any rod.

The reason is very simple. You fish for hours at a time. Much of the time you are basically fishing on a slack line. When you do, for hours on end, you don't want to be tiring your wrist and arm, trying to hold up the tip or butt of an unbalanced rod.

Be safe

Balance is highly overated, in my opinion. It is often impossible to attain without sacrificing ergonomics, so which is more important to you? Also consider that as soon as you put a lure on the line, your balance point is off. I have a very expensive rod I built when I first started building that had good balance but the distance between the reel seat and the butt was so long it caught in my clothing all the time. I finally took just one inch off the butt-problem solved and I sense no problem due to changing the balance.

I've read posts that argue that it depends a lot on whether you are fishing tip up or down, so you might want to investigate that aspect.

For me, I make them as light as possible with best ergonomics for the intended use of the rod and they balance where they balance.

Michael,
That is the wonderful thing about the free market world.
Folks and custom builders can make rods in the way that suits them to meet their particular needs and expectations.

As the old saying goes, what is good for goose may not be good for the gander.

Be safe

roger wilson Wrote:
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>
>
> As the old saying goes, what is good for goose may
> not be good for the gander.
>
>

Roger,
I'm not so sure I remember the old saying goes that way. ;-)

Chester

May your line be tight and your beverages be cold!

You must be one of those younger whipper snappers

Now that is going back some

Bill - willierods.com

From the dictionary!

[dictionary.reference.com]

I never had one - but are they good on the BarBe

Bill - willierods.com