Hi guys,

Quick question for you DIY decal dudes.

I'm using papilio paper, glossy white and clear vinyl with a inkjet. The clear is only good if I'm going to put the decal on a light colored blank or background, the glossy I can print a black background with whatever colors I want but the backing isn't sticking to the blank as well as I would like. The tag ends pull from the blank in spots.

Any hints or pointers?

I typically put the decal on while doing thread work so the decal may sit on the blank before finish for a day or two. That's where I'm seeing the pull off.

Thanks for your time.

With all decals are you putting a coat of finish on -- then the decal ???

Bill - willierods.com

They have permanent and and removable adhesives available in many of the decal papers. Which ones did you get? Are the blanks small diameter?

If nothing else, cover the decal with paper and wrap thread over top (leave it there while doing thread work) this will help conform the decal to the blank, and help with the lifting. I usually wrap over the ends of the decals a bit with trim wraps, and this helps too. One last thing is to round off the corners when you cut the decal out, especially if you won't be wrapping over top. The rounded corners aren't as likely to lift.

Joe

Bill, I am not. I'm applying directly to the blank.

Joe, thanks for the tips. I think I got the removable without thinking about it. Not sure why I did. Maybe that's why I had an easier time with the last batch of paper... haha.

[www.texascraft.com]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/22/2013 03:09PM by Adam Curtis.

This is not a great picture but is an example of the Papillo paper used with a color laser printer. The decal worked perfectly. I put down one coating of finish, applied the decal, and then another of finish on top.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Steve Hartzell
Lake Conroe - Willis, Texas



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/22/2013 03:15PM by Steve Hartzell.

I'm not putting the decal over thread, or don't have a need to. So are you guys saying to put a coat of finish down on the blank before I put my label on?

that's what I did.

Steve Hartzell
Lake Conroe - Willis, Texas

After printing the decal, wind the decal stock around a dowel that is slightly smaller in size that the area of the rod blank where you will located the decal. Leave it wound around the dowel overnight. Now when you cut it out, you'll find it maintains a natural curvature similar to that of the blank, which will reduce the tendency of the edges to lift.

Using a thread wrap over it, again overnight, also tends to clamp the paper in place and helps set the adhesive. Although you may find that after putting that curvature in, the thread clamp becomes redundant.

..............

No issue with thread putting grooves in the decal?

Steve I'll try that as well. Thanks!

What I have generally done with using the thread clamp technique, is to roll around sheet of paper over the decal and wrap on top of that. Use D or E thread to minimize any possible grooving.

...........

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> What I have generally done with using the thread
> clamp technique, is to roll around sheet of paper
> over the decal and wrap on top of that. Use D or E
> thread to minimize any possible grooving.
>
> ...........

I do the above as well.

Here's an idea for you with the clear film - you can paint the blank silver, gold or whatever and put a clear decal over that. Normally I print the decal with all the text "white" so it doesn't print, then the paint show through. I use solid colors or designs for the background. I have also used various adhesive backed metallic scrapbooking films wrapped on the blank under a clear decal.

_________________________________________
"Angling is extremely time consuming.
That's sort of the whole point." - Thomas McGuane

Thanks Chuck and Tom!

Appreciate the help guys!

Adam, I have not used the white glossy but have tons of experience with the matte white and have had no problems like you mention. It is very thin, compliant, sticks like crazy without sealer over it, looks very bright and glossy when finished with epoxy. I don't think glossy is an advantage.

The process:
Print the decal
Spray the sheet or individual decal with Papilio or Krylon UV resistant fixative
Cut out the decal
If it's going onto a dark blank, run a black sharpie around the edge to darken it
Prepare the blank by buffing with Scotch pad, just like you do to prepare for epoxy. Wipe clean. (If the blank has any wax or other contaminant on it, then the adhesion will probably be compromised)
Apply the decal firmly by hand
Burnish with a burnishing tool working from the center out and with the decal backing material as a protective layer between the decal and the tool
Apply a coat of CP around the edge to prevent epoxy from attacking the edge. This may be done just before epoxying-the label will stick to the blank without it or any epoxy. Doing it before wrapping ensures that if you are using no CP on the threads the edge still gets its CP. Don't worry if it looks a little rough-it won't after epoxy.
Do any wrapping that involves the decal. I often wrap the ends, but it's not necessary to make it stick. It just looks more finished. I have a rod that I just applied the decal to and did no wrapping and the decal is fine after about 4 years.
Apply two coats of epoxy.

These decals are so thin and compliant that an overlap onto themselves will probably be indetectable after epoxy is applied.


[www.rodbuilding.org]

Thank you Michael for taking the time to write that up!

I have worked with the matte in the past and not had this problem like you mentioned but was curious about the glossy. Thought it might give the photos and decals more life.

Appreciate the step by step.

Thanks again!