Have a quick question , found a flaw in the first coat of epoxy, it's over the five day grace .Was told to scuff it with Scotch Bright, and recoat . Since I don't have such animal what would be a good equivalent ??? For further use what grade or color Scotch Bright would be the best purchase for this situation . Thank you in advance for all replies ..

<<<<DON>>>>
Fort Myers Fla.

the darker green scotch brite works the best,you can normally get it at any dollar store in a 3 pack.if i were to use something else it would be 600 grit sand paper dampened.all you are trying to do is scuff the hardened epoxy to give a water break surface and allow the new epoxy to adhere,so you don't have to be very aggresive.when you clean use a paper towel and a little water,NO alcohol or solvents,just a bit of water.let dry and apply

www.southriverrodsllc.com

You can purchase the equivalent of Scotchbrite at the local grocery story in the cleaning section. It's just much easier to use than sandpaper.

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Scrubby Pads, Have the wife show you.

I don't see the reason to scuff teh finish. I have never done that, I will wait weeks sometimes between coats (under and overwraps), and never have a problem - and I get to see a lot of the rods I build after they've been used for a lengthy time period.

I like ,thank you all .. Have a great weekend ..

<<<<DON>>>>
Fort Myers Fla.

Donald,
As Billy said, simply clean the current finish with a tack free cloth, apply the next coat of finish and let it dry on the dryer.

Don't clean with DNA or detergent. Just use a tack free cloth to clean and then apply the finish.

Be safe

I didn't say to clean anything with anything - I just coat right over the cured/dried epoxy, with another coat. I've been told that doing this will: not allow the coats of finish to stick to each other; it will peel off; the epoxy will fisheye. In my personal first hand experiance none of these things has happened to me on hundreds of rods. It might happen to you though, who knows? Another thing that I have done which is highly recommended to not do...is to wipe with DNA and/or Acetone. Sometimes a fisheye pops up, sometimes a piece of dust mucks the finish up. I don't think twice about wiping with teh solvent...provided the epoxy is cured to the point where the solvent won't make it sticky (at least a day or 2). Mudhole sells a product called "Bubble Buster" which you spray on the epoxy after it is applied - I use this when I see a fisheye popping up and about 50% of the time whatever the solvent is in that bottle...it "kills" whatever is causing the fisheye.

What I have found, is when I scuff a cured coat of finish that doesn't completely cover the threads, is teh threads get slightly scuffed and "hairy", and then you need to put at least 2 more coats on so that it is smooth.

I'll offer the following FWIW.

If an epoxy is re-coated within a certain window of time, typically around 48 hours, the epoxy will form a "chemical bond" with the previous coat. For all practical purposes it is as strong as it can get. After that time period you only have the adhesion that the epoxy gives. It order to promote that adhesive bond it is best to have a rough surface with "hills and valleys" for the epoxy to "key and lock" into. given that epoxy used on thread wraps is intended more to encapulate rather than form a strong bond i doubt it matters much to promote the best adhesive bond.

I clean with soap and water and then wet sand. I do this only because it take little effort and makes me feel better. Contrary to what seem here claim, I have found that a new coat makes all scratch marks go away, no matter how rough a grit paper you use.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.