I'm turning wooden handles on a mandrel and it's very difficult to remove the handle after turning, is there something I could use so it will slide off the mandrel easier without hindering the handle /blank glue-up?

If it is so hard to get it off, how are you getting it on the mandrel? Also, if you are attempting to take it off right after turning it, the wood may still be warm or even hot, this causes it to expand which can make it tighter on the mandrel, try waiting for it to cool. For tough ones, I have a device ( name unknown) that is rubber that I puy into my workshop vice, that I can insert an end of the mandrel into, then clamp it firmly, and then pull the handle off, being sure to pull from the furthest end so as not to separate any glue ups.

Thomas,
Take the mandrel off the lathe.
Chuck the mandrel into a variable speed drill.
Either run the drill in one direction or the other to simply screw the mandrel out of the handle.

As Phil pointed out, use your hand on the drill end of the handle when turning the handle off of the mandrel to avoid separating the handle.

But, even if you don't have a threaded mandrel, the handle will screw off in a heart beat.

Yes, you'll have to share more info on how you are getting it on the mandrel to start? Are you gluing up laminated sections or just getting a tight fit?

I started using a threaded mandrel that doesn't require such a tight fit.

Terry

I'm using a 7/16 threaded mandrel and a 7/16 drill bit so it's a tight push to get it on. I think maybe as suggested it might come off easier if I wait a bit after turning it. Ya some are lam. Some are not.

Since you're using threaded rod put double nuts on one end so you have a jam nut. Put a wrench on the stationary nut and a strap wrench on your handle. Turn.

If you are using a threaded mandrel, rather then try to "push" it off, merely unscrew it off the mandrel. You can speed this up by putting one end of mandrel in an electric hand drill.

Actually its the TK mandrel not threaded rod. It's a tight fit to push it on and pull it off but I'll let it cool a bit first and see how that works . Thanks for all the advise.

Thomas,
Whether it is threaded or not, put the end of the mandrel into an electric drill and screw it out of the handle.

if you get it off Let us know
I for one think you did three things wrong
Too much glue With rod bond a very thin coat is all needed THIN
Too tight a fit Gluing on a threaded rod where the rings can be moved easy is better Then two nuts to squese them together THEN REAM TO FIT A MANDREL
And it does not sound like you coated the mandrel so the rings do not glue to it


If you get this off let us know I would like to know

Bill - willierods.com

Sorry if some were mislead or misunderstood, but , I don't have a handle stuck on the mandrel it's just that the wooden handles are very tight going on and off the mandrel not that I can't get them off. I just thought if there was some kind of "wax" that would make that easier but wouldn't hinder the blank/handle glue up . I noticed that mudhole had some mandrel wax but I didn't know if that was something that would help.

In that case Maybe a layer of masking tape will help

it has to be tight enough so as you shape it does not turn

If you are getting it off
I have No Idea

Bill - willierods.com

Thomas,

Try calling Mud Hole at 1--866-790-7637 then go to EXT.115 or EXT.120, they are tech to help you with any problems you may come up with, they have saved my butt more than I can remember .
They are there to help. They love what they do I think!!! Give them a try.

What is life without fishing ?

If you just want to wax the mandrel to make slide on and off easier, use parrafin, or even candle wax. Just be sure that after finishing the turning that you ream enough to get the wax residue out of the handle as it will inhibit adhering it to the blank.

thanks everyone I appreciate all the help.

How about instead of using a 7/16" (0.4375") bit for the handle you source a 11.2mm bit (0.4409")...it may still be tight enough. Worth a shot for a few dollars.

[www.biscotoolsupply.com]

I had the same problem when I first began turning wood grips as well as birch bark grips. I use a smooth mandrel with a drill collar as a restraint and a threaded end on the one end of the mandrel. The heat generated when you are turning the mandrel causes the expansion of both the steel mandrel as well as the wood of the grip. The reason for the grip being "stuck" on the mandrel is the the coefficient of expansion of metals is much larger than those of the metal. I finally solved the problem by placing the mandrel with the "stuck" grip in the chest freezer we have in our garage. I left it in the freezer over night and then quickly inserted the mandrel in the chuck on my lathe and it is relatively easy to break the grip free of the mandrel. I do use paraffin to coat the mandrel before putting the wood piece on the mandrel. This process works well for me. Good luck with your project.

Mike Blomme

I will agree with Bill B. about masking tape. I'm either turning handles that have 1/2" or 9/16" hole. My mandrel is aluminum stock from home store.

Will put enongth masking tape to keep piece from slipping. Use quite a bit for the larger hole.

They come off pretty easy

i have a beat up old stick candle that I always coat my mandrels with prior to putting the handles on. You have to remember to run a reamer though it when you are done though to "clean" it out, other than that it backs out nice an smooth, sometimes you need a drill to get it going but it is never difficult and I have never had an issue.

I would also think a Tapered Mandrel and then reaming the wood to fit would work better

Bill - willierods.com