Does anybody know of a better paste type of glue other then Rod Bond or Pro Paste for glueing together reel seats and handles together.

Glenn McMurrian

there is the threadmaster ultimate gel

I use Kar-dol

Better in what way?

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Define better? THe paste epoxies are pretty much the same consitancy and they are all 1000 times stronger than we need them to be. THe only way I can see something being better is if they were substantially cheaper...and they are already cheap to begin with

Glenn,
These are very good products, if you like a paste or gel type epoxy.

I suppose that the first question to ask is this:

Do you want a past type epoxy to glue things together.

I used a paste or gel type epoxy to glue something together, and have never used it since. I would rather use a more liquid type epoxy for gluing.

So, I use an industrial marketed - 30 minute cure for the bulk of all of my rod gluing. With the marked 30 minute cure time you have an actual use time for your glue of about 10 minutes. Normally, this allows me to glue up - even very long and complex handle and reel seats in a single glue mix. I simply prefer the fact that the entire grip and reel seat cures at the same time.

But, experiment and use what works best for you.

I do use 5 minute epoxy from time to time as well to take care of items like butt caps or other single pieces that need to be glued in place.

Yes, your definition of better, or what specifically you are looking for would help.

Paste epoxies (Rod Bond, etc) are very good. They work best with relatively smooth surfaces that are properly prepared to a water break-free finish. The more irregular the surface you are bonding, the less effective they become as the paste doesn't flow to these surfaces and tends to get pushed out of the way.

More liquid epoxies provide better adhesion for irregular surfaces, although, proper prep is still a really good idea in preventing failures. Epoxy is not a very good gap-filling adhesive.

There are some that use gorilla glue. It expands when combined with moisture. I've not tried it and it is an alternative to the epoxy products we typically use. I would be interested in hearing from someone that's tested this product more. I can see some uses for this on gluing up irregular surfaces. I think you need to take care and allow a spot for the glue to expand to, or be very careful on the amount you use.

Terry

Gorilla Glue and similar polyurethane glues are not as strong as the alternatives. And, while the glue does expand with foam into gaps, that foam does not provide strength to the bond. Titebond and similar PVA glues achieve their maximum strength when clamped very tightly with a very thin film--easy to do when gluing cork rings together, but hardly possible when gluing handles to rod blanks. Epoxy is both strong and gap filling--it actually prefers a somewhat thicker film for maximum strength. In my opinion it is ideal for gluing cork handles to blanks.

ive tried gorilla glue on a bunch of stuff other than rods and it didnt hold up that well

i have recently tried rod bond and so far its been great and some years ago i used 15min epoxy? i think was 15 min and thats still holding up perfect for the last 5 years

Waste of time going from Rod Bond. Now if it came with a bottle of the good stuff, I'd get the glasses and at least look at what you brought.

Agree with Steve, I've had excellent results with Rod Bond, and also the Raindancer 15 minute paste epoxy. I've not tried the Mudhole version but suspect it is similar. I'm perfectly happy with the paste products and I find them superior especially when I use the drywall mesh tape for shimming reel seats.

Terry

Horses for courses. I do like a paste on some applications and a liquid on others. I like a 24 hour liquid for under grips, a paste for under real seats if not using graphite arbors but liquid if i am. I also use paste under gimbals and 5 min liquid for tips.Have used pro paste with no issues at all.

Prior to discovering RodBond on this forum, I used a liquid rod cement. My original was harnell liquid rod cement. When that was no longer available I used PlioBond. While these glues formed very strong bonds, they took much longer to fully cure and they were far more messy. Since I found RodBond, I say RIP to liquid glues. I have yet to have a failure with RodBond (either form) and even use it to glue my granddaughters' broken toys back together. Like Billy, I can't imagine how it can be improved.

Mike Blomme

Better? No

Different? Yes

A few years ago someone made a post asking us to tell what unusual applications we have used Rod bond paste. (I think it was Billy) I know with the responses given I can`t see how anything could be better about it.

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

I wouldn't use a fast cure epoxy for anything but an emergency repair. For anything else I prefer to use a slow cure (at least 40 min pot life) epoxy. I like to be able to make minor adjustments as I make the rod. I tried Gorilla glue, and it not only expands into gaps and crevices, but out of them as well. One time with that was more than enough!! Since Ralph at Trondak no longer makes Cork Bond, I have switched to Liquid Fusion for gluing my cork rings to the blank prior to shaping. Excellent strength and easy clean up. It turns nicely with no visible or "feelable" glue lines. Ya I know that is not a real word. :>) For rip tip-tops, I use Super Hot Melt glue. I use my glue gun and on a sheet of glass I squeeze out long strips of the glue. When cooled and dried, I peel it off the glass and store it in coils. When I want to install the top, I just find the correct size strip of glue that fits the I.D. of the tip, insert it, then cut the strip leaving about 1/4" of glue sticking out and then heat the metal tube of the tip with my lighter and slide on to the tip of the blank. Works like a charm.

Randolph, That is interesting, I'm going to try it--much easier than what I have been doing. Thanks for the idea.

Mike Blomme

Better in that it is easy to get not just avaliable to get a rod building stores and mail order outfits like Mudhole.com and it does not need to be super XXXXX strong just a good XXX strong enough not to put Rod Bond down have been using it for years but in terms of over kill I think Rod Bond fits the job well.

It will be used for fitting reel seats and handles together and also butt caps and I would also like to be able to get it in bigger sizes not just 32 oz bottles.

Glenn McMurrian

Billy Vivona Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Define better? THe paste epoxies are pretty much
> the same consitancy and they are all 1000 times
> stronger than we need them to be. THe only way I
> can see something being better is if they were
> substantially cheaper...and they are already cheap
> to begin with


Better in that it is easy to get not just avaliable to get a rod building stores and mail order outfits like Mudhole.com and it does not need to be super XXXXX strong just a good XXX strong enough not to put Rod Bond down have been using it for years but in terms of over kill I think Rod Bond fits the job well.

It will be used for fitting reel seats and handles together and also butt caps and I would also like to be able to get it in bigger sizes not just 32 oz bottles.

Glenn McMurrian

There aren't many similar type gel epoxies to be found at the local home hardware store. The Kardol gel is very similar and works well. But the paste type products such as PC7 and PC11 are generally too thick for good close fitting assemblies.

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