Hey gang,

So I have researched and discussed for what seems an eternity on this rod so this is the last post checking to make sure I have my pieces in order before I move forward. If you see something that cant work or deosnt make sense please dont hesitate to bring it to my attention.

The goal is a 4-8lb test rod capable of holding the mean river bass, tough Rainbow Trout, and crappie and stripper and the occasional saltwater trip. I want to go after some IGFA light line class records with the rod as well.

Reel: Penn Fierce FRC2000 210yds/6Lb test (29" retrieve) 4+1 bearings

Blank: Rainshadow RX7 7' MF 6-10LB 1/16-5/16 Light Action 2 piece spinning rod
[www.jannsnetcraft.com]

Guides: Microwave guide set with appropriate 5.0 duralite top
[www.jannsnetcraft.com]

Grip: Im planning on glueing together round cork into a nice split grip handle, premium cork with red burl ends.
[www.jannsnetcraft.com] Premium
[www.jannsnetcraft.com] Red Burl

Thread: Red Metallic Pacfic bay size A thread I was thinking about other manufactureres let me know what the lightest one is. :) Thanks!! Also let me know if I need something other then size A, thats the only size the metalic thread on janes came in.
[www.jannsnetcraft.com]

Winding checks: Here Im not sure the correct process but I was going to mock up the handle and then use my micrometer to see the exact size of the blank at the grip then order the correct size winding check. Let me know if there is an easier way to do this. I imagine any extra space is taken up by 1/4" tape. I realise these checks arent the lightest but this is the only place im adding a little flash.
[www.jannsnetcraft.com]

Hook Keeper: Here Im going to use a small what I think is titanium hook keeper. Im not positive what TiCH means but Im guessing titanium so im going with that.
[www.jannsnetcraft.com]

Epoxy: Going with a 15 minute epoxy to give me a little extra time to work with the cork since this is my first build.
[www.jannsnetcraft.com]

Rod Finish:Thread master rod finsih light
[www.jannsnetcraft.com]

Extras:
Flexcoat Guide Foot Adhesive to help me hold the guides on during assembly


Let me know if you see any problems, I realy appreciate the help. I would hate to go and spend all this money and end up with a boat anchor. Also I tried to be as exact as I could. If you see a step or a process not mentioned please mention it. After I get all this done I will make a post about apropriate tools. Im working out a deal for a power rod wrapper a dryer and some wrapper stations. Then Ill know what I still need. Thanks in advance.

Sicnerely,
Alex R.

Trying to build a rod that excels at everything from Rainbow Trout to Striped bass, and saltwater species to boot, is going to be very tough to accomplish.

....................

the only item i see that may give you a problem is the thread,i personaly do not like to use metallics as my binding thread.i'll use it for trim wraps ,under wrap,etc but not as the main wrapping thread,i feel it just does not bind well enuf.i have done a prizm style wrap with the metallic and a similar color normal thread and that seemed to work better

www.southriverrodsllc.com

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Trying to build a rod that excels at everything
> from Rainbow Trout to Striped bass, and saltwater
> species to boot, is going to be very tough to
> accomplish.
>
> ....................


I completly agree, we are actually light action fisherman trying to find a good artificial rod that can hang out the big boys and the little guys we like to catch. For us its more about the fight.



I will look at other non metallic threads.

Thanks for the advice guys keep it coming.

Alex R.

I would go with at least a Med Action Bass blank or Med/Hvy action as we used to catch 30lb Halibut on the Med/Hvy action bass casting rods in the Ocean all the time with 20lb Firewire line and for the Strippers a 6ft Med action graphite rod was my favorite rod for Strippers in the 14lb to 40lb class in the Calif Delta with 14lb Mono line not sure about a spinning rod setup.

Glenn McMurrian

Alex,

It looks like you have a good plan. If the goal is to fight large fish on an UL, you'll certainly have some fun battles with that blank (You know my thoughts on blank choice.).

I've used metallics for guide wraps, and it should work just fine on that blank. You just need to be careful of the sharp angles at the guide feet, particularly near the tip. When the thread makes that turn, if the tension is too high, the metallic ribbon will separate and show the nylon core underneath. Keep an eye on things and you'll be all right. The standard nylon threads will give a bit of shimmer, but a bit more subtle than a metallic.

When I use aluminum winding checks, I use a check that leaves room to tuck a thread wrap underneath. I install it by putting a thin coat of rod bond on the back of the check and carefully put it into place, being careful to get the blank centered underneath. Let the rod bond dry at least 8 hours with the rod vertical so the check doesn't move and to be sure it is set well. Then, when I add the trim wraps, I tuck the thread underneath. When I finish, I let the epoxy wick under the check and build up the finish to the front of the check. The reason I do this is to avoid a stress concentration point. As the blank flexes, it deforms and becomes oval. If there is a small bur in the check that is in contact with the blank, it will concentrate stress there, and could lead to a failure. You could likely get by with a slip fit (not snug or tight, but not a lot of wiggle room), but I try to avoid the issue all together.

The hook keeper you are using is not titanium, it is a steel wire that is coated with a titanium chrome type finish. It gives the finished part a dark silver color that looks good.

Joe

Get several sizes or measure very well for one Put the thread wrap on first Then the check should fit a little snug Finish the thread and also the check Careful to keep finish off the handle

Bill - willierods.com

Glenn McMurrian Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I would go with at least a Med Action Bass blank
> or Med/Hvy action as we used to catch 30lb Halibut
> on the Med/Hvy action bass casting rods in the
> Ocean all the time with 20lb Firewire line and for
> the Strippers a 6ft Med action graphite rod was my
> favorite rod for Strippers in the 14lb to 40lb
> class in the Calif Delta with 14lb Mono line not
> sure about a spinning rod setup.


We arent chasing halibut or tuna, just trout flounder and reds. That kind of rod is over kill here in my opinion. We want a fight on our hands hence the line class records. You could never catch the crappie we chase with a amedium aciton rod you would hardly ever feel a bite. Actually light action is still heavy but we neded the back bone for the rainbows which are actually very light bitting but full of fight.

Thanks again everryone keep the info coming.

Joe Im still looking into those blanks you mentioned to me.

Thanks again,
Alex R.

No idea what Joe recommended (but I'd pay attention). If you want to stay with a Batson product you might take a look at the XP841/842. Comparing the specs to what I see on Jann's site they appear lighter yet more powerful. Popping blanks make a good crossover for fresh/salt water. Haven't built mine yet but I'm impressed with how they feel. Faster than some other popping blanks with impressive weight to strength ratio (IMO).

Another one that I have, MHX SJ9000 is worth a look. This blank is extra fast with a mag light butt. I have caught crappie/bluegill/peacock and largemouth on it. It will cast 1/16 ounce and fish 4# test. Yet someone in south florida reported catching a big cobia on it. It comes in 2pc if you want that and the price is right. If would not be my choice around heavy cover.

I recently bought another Daiwa’s Tournament SS Series reel. Call it old school if you want. Then compare weight, line capacity, drag....and factor in proven track record.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.