I notice a few "high spots on my wraps especially on butt wrap and one of the stripping guides. can I carefully use a razor blade to trim these down before the 2nd coat .apparently dust or maybe unnoticed thread tags that I failed to notice when burning frizzies

Maybe carefully grind it down with a small file and then flame it to try and smooth it out again? Shouldn't be a problem as there will be another layer over it, right?

Cam

Hi Bill,
Your method with a new sharp blade to carefully make a shallow depression then rec-coat is the accepted method for fixing small 'lumps" in finish. You will improve with practice. My first attempt came out really well and I have improved on that. Just take care and you will get a good result.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

Bill,

Scalpels work great for this, among numerous other tasks. Sharp, sharp blade, with a handle!

Chris

Yep...slice it off flush and recoat. You'll never know the difference.

I've found using a small fine file works well and it is a little safer to use than a razor blade.

Chester

May your line be tight and your beverages be cold!

I use a new single-edge to trim bumps and spikes. Use good light and a magnifier.

_________________________________________
"Angling is extremely time consuming.
That's sort of the whole point." - Thomas McGuane

Since I have much less experience than most on the board take this into consideration. For a bump, tag end or an uneven spot I use 1500 or 600 wet dry sand paper. I cut it in narrow strips (the width of the wrap or less). The finish needs to be dry and firm. I also put a wrap of masking or painters tape next to the wrap so I do not damage the blank. I have tried the razor blade and did not like it? I was told you can fray the thread doing this, but I have not had this problem. I do monitor and make sure that I do not go deep and get thru the finish and into the thread wraps. Lastly I will scuff the rest of the wrap as well, partly because I let the blank dry a few days before using sandpaper and want to make sure the finish will adhere. Just something that has worked for me.

I can understand other's fears of using a razor blade to slice off anomolies, but remember you are only slicing parallel to the blank. Unless you go all Slingblade or Hannibal Lecter on it there should be zero danger in using this method.

Sandpaper will also work fine if that is more within your comfort zone. I just do not like waiting a few days to sand something for a few minutes when I can wait less than half a day and slice it off in five seconds.

Jay Lancaster Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I can understand other's fears of using a razor
> blade to slice off anomolies, but remember you are
> only slicing parallel to the blank. Unless you go
> all Slingblade or Hannibal Lecter on it there
> should be zero danger in using this method.
>
> Sandpaper will also work fine if that is more
> within your comfort zone. I just do not like
> waiting a few days to sand something for a few
> minutes when I can wait less than half a day and
> slice it off in five seconds.

Jay nailed it. You can't sand soft finish.

For what it's worth - I was several inches into an underwrap for a waterslide when I encountered about 6" of very fuzzy thread. I went ahead and finished the wrap. That short section looked like a sea urchin under a magnifier. The next morning I trimmed off about 50 little spikes and added another coat of finish. You couldn't see the difference in the wrap. I use blue painters tape to dab away the trimmings.

_________________________________________
"Angling is extremely time consuming.
That's sort of the whole point." - Thomas McGuane

Just make sure the blade is clean. A lot of single edge blades are oiled to prevent rust. Clean it wait alcohol first.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)