i have been reading this forum and several other forums preparing for my first build (outside of class). one thing is confusing me; some people say use denatured alcohol for this, others say use isopropyl alcohol, others say use acetone and some say NEVER use acetone building rods. what do the majority of you use and in what way do you use it?
i've spent the last month searching for books and tutorials for cross wraps, diamonds, chevrons and dragon scales but now i'm thinking i need a VERY basic book explaining the purposes and uses for these solvents.
i'm open to any and all suggestions!!
if you're at the Expo this weekend and see a lost, bewildered, obvious FNG, that will be me. y'all have a safe trip and hope you have a great time!
mick

The best idea would be to use the least volatile solvent that will do what you need to do. For general cleaning chores you can most likely get by with 90% Isopropyl alcohol. For cleaning epoxy out of brushes or more stubborn tasks, denatured solvent alcohol is good.

Acetone has its place and while not inherently hazardous or dangerous in most cases, it is a quite a bit more volatile than these others and therefore if you don't need it, why use it? It will not, as you may have heard, harm a rod blank in cases where a little wipe or clean up is done. But it's not the sort of thing you want to soak a blank in.

............

I use 90% iso alcohol

______________________________________
Super Tight Lines......Don

thanks for the replys!

Mick,

90% isopropyl will do 90% of the jobs you need it to. Denatured alcohol is slightly "stronger" and has a different makeup. DA has never failed to do any job I've needed it to in rodbuilding. I only have DA on my workbench...it's all I need.

Acetone is not needed in my opinion. There are too many negatives. Also remember that if you use acetone, wear gloves as it will be absorbed by your skin. Acetone does not have a place in "my" rodbuilding or on my workbench.

thank you Jay

Mick,
The advice is very good.
Use the least active solvent that is needed to do the job - for the task at hand.

However, in spite of Jay's comments, there is a need for stronger solvents in some situations. If you do use stronger solvents like acetone, or Xylene - be sure to use the solvent wisely and with the appropriate health and safety measures.

A good solvent, is defined to be a chemical that mixes nicely with, and "thin's or goes into solution, with the material in question.

As you get deep into this occupation of rod building, you will find that there are quite a few materials that are not that compatible and able to be thinned or mixed with alcohol to give the needed effect.

When this situation occurs, and it will occur, if you delve deeply into the occupation, use the appropriate chemical for the job and use the appropriate handling and health measures when doing the job.

As always, safety first.

Good luck
Roger

Here is a definition of diluent:

[medical-dictionary.thefreedictionary.com]

Basically, when you ask the question about alcohol, you are asking about the properties of alcohol and whether it is a good diluent for the task at hand.

My point of my earlier post is that alcohol simply is NOT a good diluent for some materials. As a result, of this incompatibility, it will not make a good cleaner or material to mix with and remove build up or to thin out or clean a non compatible product.

But again, just use the least active and safest material that you can use to complete the job at hand.

Be safe
Roger

I use Alcohol for clean up and lacquer thinner for cleaning brushes

Bill - willierods.com

Well, before you are "deep" into this, either denatured alcohol, or 91% Isopropyl alcohol are functionally the same, and perfect for cleaning up uncured epoxy from your tools, or cleaning the greasy smudge marks off your blanks before you build them. I use Isopropyl because every drug store carries it cheap and denatured requires a trip to the hardware store paint section.

Acetone generally will dissolve paint on the blanks, and will also dissolve the resin around the carbon fiber in the blank, so until you are well on your way, I'd stay away from it. Some use it to thin epoxy finishes, but these days with the wide variety of "lite" finishes, it isn't needed at all. If you prefer a thinner finish, use one labled "lite" and you'll get your less viscous, longer app time finish.

Good luck, it's a good hobby.

Drew

I've never had to, nor have I seen the need to thin anything on my workbench. Hence my thoughts on Acetone. Certainly if you need to thin things, use what works best.

Jay,
The one place where another solvent can be a very big help and that is if you have partially cured epoxy - like on a handle or blank or grip that needs to be removed.
Normally alcohol will not touch or be of much help in removing the partially hardened glue.

But Xylene, on the other hand can do a very good job on this task.

Again, use only with the appropriate precautions and for the right tasks - if at all.

Good luck
Roger

as Roger suggests

But
THINK
before you do any glueing or any thing Measure several times -- And when you are sure you are ready to place things on the blank -- Then do it

Do not be in a rush to get it done -- That only makes for Mastakes Be sure !!

Bill - willierods.com

90% Isopropyl alcohol is the main solvent I use for cleaning up Rod Bond and whatever thread epoxy I use.
U40 Brush Cleaner is my favorite solvent for keeping brushes clean.
I keep a good sable brush immersed into the bottle through a hole in the cap.
It's always clean and ready to go.
I just clean it well after each use and return it to it's place.
One brush lasts many years this way.

I have Lacquer thinner, Xylene and Acetone in the cupboard and haven't used them in years.
I'd be happy to get rid of them if I knew a safe way to do it.

Mick, one little thing if you do use acetone: Make sure you use Nitrile gloves, I know slaughtered the spelling of this word but no doubt someone will correct this for me. If you use the regular latex glove you will find the acetone will eat right through them. Just a little point so you don't have to learn it on your own. Per some of the above posts, I agree with Tom, use the least potent chemical you need to. One last thing I will say to you as a new builder is how one approaches a build: I kind of view it like surgery, lay out, organize, your components. Think through each step you are about to take so as to not skip or perform the step wrong, Measure very carefully, as with epoxies, mix well and don't worry about trying to epoxy a whole rod with one mix before it starts to set up, just make another mix. Don't put that pressure on yourself. Have fun and build on.