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3 jaw vs. 4 jaw chucks
Posted by:
James Newsome
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Date: February 13, 2013 03:28PM
What would be the difference when I see lathe chucks offered and some are 4 jaw and some are only 3 jaw. Difference in holding power? Is less putting more pressure on each jaw or does the greater surface of 4 increase friction on the part being held? Re: 3 jaw vs. 4 jaw chucks
Posted by:
gary Marquardt
(141.211.233.---)
Date: February 13, 2013 03:42PM
I have both 3 and 4 jawed chucks. I use the 3 jawed pretty much now only when I'm doing certain things on cane rods. since the rods are 6 sided the 3 jaw works best there. however, for most other operations I use a 4 jawed. I started out withthe Wood River 4 jaw from Woodcraft and bought the extra smaller jaws for it. now that is what I use 90% of the time. works reall great for holding mandrels reel seat inserts etc.
Hope this helps. Re: 3 jaw vs. 4 jaw chucks
Posted by:
Billy Vivona
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Date: February 13, 2013 03:54PM
When turning mandrels and other round objects, 3 jaw is fine. FOr turning/boring square stock, you need a 4 jaw. Re: 3 jaw vs. 4 jaw chucks
Posted by:
Tom Kirkman
(Moderator)
Date: February 13, 2013 04:27PM
Be careful as some 4 jaw chucks have independent jaws. These are used primarily on machine lathes where you have to manually center out of round objects. Most chucks sold in woodworking stores, however, are self centering scroll type chucks. Just make sure you know what you're buying.
.............. Re: 3 jaw vs. 4 jaw chucks
Posted by:
roger wilson
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Date: February 13, 2013 06:29PM
James,
Best to have one of each. Then, when you are on symmetrical objects you can use a 3 jaw chuck. If the object is not symmetrical you can use the 4 jaw chuck. Chucks like Taig 3 and 4 jaw chucks are both self centering. So, one twist of the back plate will tighten up either chuck. Some folks like to use the 4 jaw chuck better because there is slightly less pressure per chuck to hold the object in place. If you do have a chuck with replaceable jaws and intend to hold rod handles, it is nice to have one set of jaws that have an inside concave that will roughly match the outside taper of the typical 1 to 1 3/4 inch rod handle. By having an inside concave shape on the lathe chuck jaw, the jaw will hold many times better than a flat jaw. The flat jaw only touches the handle in an area about 1/16th of an inch wide. But a concave jaw will have a contact area that is equal to the width of the jaw which may be up to 3/4th of an inch. Re: 3 jaw vs. 4 jaw chucks
Posted by:
roger wilson
(---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: February 13, 2013 06:31PM
One example of a Taig 4 jaw chuck using the soft aluminum jaws which have had an inside concave shape ground into the face of the jaws:
[www.google.com] Re: 3 jaw vs. 4 jaw chucks
Posted by:
Eric Viburs
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Date: February 15, 2013 08:27AM
I have had a self centering 4 jaw for years and it is all I have used without issue. If I am using a mandrel I prefer a jacobs therefore you never have slip. Re: 3 jaw vs. 4 jaw chucks
Posted by:
roger wilson
(---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: February 15, 2013 06:27PM
Eric,
X10 on your use of a jacobs chuck when using a solid rod for anything in the lathe. Excellent grip and perfect stability witth the Jacobs chuck. Roger Re: 3 jaw vs. 4 jaw chucks
Posted by:
Phil Erickson
(---.dsl.pltn13.sbcglobal.net)
Date: February 16, 2013 02:49PM
Another good option when using mandrels is, a collet chucking system. Collet's grip the mandrel firmly and smoothly (no marring of the mandrel). The ability to slide the mandrel into the collet for any length is another advantage. Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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