Going to build my first float rod, Ive done some research and Ive decided on a 13' batson. I read some guys using the NGC, since this is usually used for spinning rods I was just wondering how to determine the choke point?

Check the Library page for info

Bill - willierods.com

Bill,
I can only find info on spinning rods with the concept, no info on float or centerpin style rods.

The purpose of the NGC is to tame the line coming off a spinning reel. The line on a float rod or center pin comes off in a more or less straight line. I'm not sure what you would accomplish by using the NGC.

That's kinda what I was wondering, but in some of my research on the forum I found some posts where guys said they used the NGC on a centerpin and love it. I didn't make much sense to me either, that's why I was wondering more about it.

Try to ask how it was set up and what guides they used and sizes
Like said the system is to tame the pig tails on spinners

Bill - willierods.com

That's why I was asking how the choke point was set up, and the last post on that thread asked a question that was not replies to so I figured I would start a new thread in hopes someone who has set up a center pin in that manner would chime in. Here is the link to the thread [rodbuilding.org]

There is no choke point for a casting or fly type reel.

...............

CP float anglers could be seeing a straighter line path to the choke guide so maybe a little better performance. This is speculation but a definite possibility. Since the line is coming off in a straight line, more or less, a guide system that maintains that with no bunching or choking in the guide train would be an improvement.

Terry

Zach,
For a 13 foot rod, start with the choke guide at about 25 inches and adjust from there.

Just get a good line flow with guide sizes and spacing that keeps the line off of the rod, and that lets the line have a nice even flow and you will be in good shape.

Most good float rods have a rather slow action, so you can likely keep your running guides at about 5-7 inches apart at the tip of the rod.

Enjoy.
Roger

Hi Zac,
I think there is room for improvement in float rod guide trains and I'm going to try a bit. Teryy sounds like he has a similar idea. I will get a new Batson blank at the Expo to go with a handcrafted centre pin. I'm going to try to keep the step path out of it and keep the direction changes to a minimum. Will load the reel up with line to capacity and get the grips and seat on the blank. I'm going to run the line off the reel to a point where I can use three reduction guides, probably high frame, and keep them in a straight line along with the first running guide. Will then run fours or fives out to the tip. That will give me a good starting point for a static test and will then adjust if necessary. Hopefully the reduction guides and first running guide will remain in a straight line. If anyone one has other ideas I would be greatful to hear them.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

there was a artical in one of the books about 1 to 2 ago an the man that wrote the artical did a real good job on it it help me a lot look to back issues I think
Bill

Col,
Sounds good, I was planning on using the k series fujis, I have built quite a few spinning rods with these guides and really like them. As others have stated there is no line coil to tame with a center pin so using a higher framed smaller ring guide makes sense. May be able to start out with a 10 or 12 high frame rather then a 20 regular. Guess I have put the order in and do some playing around.

Col Chaseling Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Hi Zac,
> I think there is room for improvement in float rod
> guide trains and I'm going to try a bit. Teryy
> sounds like he has a similar idea. I will get a
> new Batson blank at the Expo to go with a
> handcrafted centre pin. I'm going to try to keep
> the step path out of it and keep the direction
> changes to a minimum. Will load the reel up with
> line to capacity and get the grips and seat on the
> blank. I'm going to run the line off the reel to a
> point where I can use three reduction guides,
> probably high frame, and keep them in a straight
> line along with the first running guide. Will then
> run fours or fives out to the tip. That will give
> me a good starting point for a static test and
> will then adjust if necessary. Hopefully the
> reduction guides and first running guide will
> remain in a straight line. If anyone one has other
> ideas I would be greatful to hear them.

I have been doing exactly this with my CP builds for a while now.
I run 20, 12, 8 (mid or high frames) and then depending on use either 8's 7's or 6's single foot fly guides out to the tip.
I find the line track is straighter but the biggest advantage is how the rods action stays light and crisp with the small single foot guides.

I'm building 2 more rods at this time and the lighter one of the two is going to be made with minnima guides to lighten it up even more.

Regards
Dave

Fishing is Life the rest is just Details

Hi Dave,
Good to hear someone has already tried what I was thinking and got it to work, gives me a lot more confidence. I'm going to use single foot titanium frames with SiC rings and will probably start with a high frame 16 or 20 then a 10 or 12 and an 8 or 6 then 4 or 5's to the tip. Will see how everything fits when I get the blank and the reel. Thanks for the info.

Zach you have some good back up to go that way. I'm also going to use carbon skinned grips, an aero seat, a minimum of fuss and keep it light.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

One last question, since the whole idea of a center pin is a drag free drift, would using wire fly guides as runners create enough drag as compared to ceramic to outweigh the advantages of a slightly lighter running guide? Thanks for the input so far guys!

Dave is on track here. Use a high frame (M) guide for the first then work on getting it to the blank and run with fly guides in a small diamiter unless it is for steel in the winter where freezing is an issue then I would not go below an #8.

Do to the way a CP can be cast I move my first guide out to around the same place I would place a fly guide. Check with the owner an see how they cast. If they cast off the side with a spin and lead it into the first guide I would move it out. These are good questions to have answered prior to starting the build.

Roger, as usual you come up with the best advice. Thanks for your consistent attention to this forum.