Have been doing a lot of searching on this forum and on the net in general about different spiral build methodologies. Specifically, I am looking for the original article that explains the O'Quinn spiral. Looks like I am not alone. I see a lot of references to the old sold out issue of the RodMaker magazine that is no longer available. I think it would be great if this article and, possibly, the other spiral methods/comparisons articles were in the forum library. That would help a lot of beginner rod builders. Are there any other places online I can find the info I am looking for?

Thanks guys!

Roman,
Actually, you can take a day and pretty well try a dozen different spirals and reach your own conclusion.

Put on your tip and running guides. Essentially, none of these guide are going to change. Then try different configurations of different sized, and oriented guides to get the line from the top of the rod to the bottom.

You can go from one guide to a half dozen to get the line moved from the top to the bottom of the rod, your choice.

Most folks use from 1-3 guides to get the line moved from the top to the bottom of the rod.

Roger

i have a question that pertains to this spiral wrap so i'll just post here.
if you are doing a slow spiral (3 guide transition) and start with a 20 at 0degrees, what's the next size to use at the 60degrees, can i use a 16 or a 12?
i want the running guides to be 10's.
can i make it like this 20 (0) - 16 (60) - 12 (120) - 10(180) all the way to the tip?

Just how big of a rod are you building? Those are pretty big in my opinion.

Ron Weber

heavy saltwater boat rod 80# 6'4''. i just want to use the 20 to make sure the line doenst hit the hand. i've built a spiral using 16-12-12-12--10 running guides but i have never built using a 20, jsut wondering what size to use after the 20.

Hi Ridge,
Use whatever suits, you might be able to go 20 then 10's all the way to the tip. For that rod it doesn't sound like casting is important so set your guides up so the static test has the rod evenly loaded. Try a few different methods such as 0, 60, 120, 180 or the O'Quinn spiral where the first guide is offset 5 - 10 degrees and see how it feels. You can also try some different sizes for the transition guides but it is better if you get to the smallest size asap.

Roman,
The O'Quinn spiral is pretty simple. The line doesn't touch any guides until it gets to the first 180 guide when in the straight position. The transition sizes will depend on the reel you are using to get the height of each guide correct. Then do a static test and make adjustments as necessary. The Rodmaker cd contains the article and you will get a lot of extra good stuff for your money. Do a search here using all dates and you will turn up quite a bit also.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

Hi,

Like every thing we do in rod building there are very few things that are absolute right or wrong. Do what works for you and the rod you are designing/building.

I am learning that answering questions can be an injustice to the person asking the question. WHY? Because the rods I design/build/use may be entirely different
than what he is asking about. My way may not be right for him/her.

That being said, I build salt water inshore rods, 5-300'. Most of my rods start off with #20 and then a#16 guide or #16 and then a #12. For my use I have found that an #10 in the middle of my first two guides works best for my builds.

Capt Neil Faulkner

Ridge,

Why not order in one 20, 16, 12 and an extra 10 so you can set up all the possibilities and find what works best for you? You might find you can do 20, 12, 10, or 20 10, 10, or 16 12, 10 or 16 10 10 (or some other combination). This way you have all the bases covered.

If you use a spiral wrap method with transition guides, those guides only need to be large enough to pass your line and any required connections. Once you move off the top of the rod you no longer have to worry about keeping the line off the rod so large guides, large rings, etc., are unnecessary.

............

Spiral wraps only need 2 size guides. Stripper keeps line off teh grip, teh other guides carry the load. Make sure teh line touches every guide when teh rod is fully flexed, and you're done. T's really that easy. I teach spiral wrap methods at NERBs gatherings all the time, it takes 5 monutes and everyone understands what is supposed to be going on. Yeah there are different theories, but they are all confusing. Understand teh basics, then you can worry about all the other stuff. I don't worry about anythign more than what i posted.

Roman,

While Billy's advice cuts to the chase so to speak, this is still your build and your opportunity to learn about the things you asked in your post. Yes, you can just order in a size 20 and 10s for the rest and make it work well, but are you going to learn what you want to by doing so? Sometimes learning why things work comes in part by comparing it to why other things don't work.

Teh "why" is teh important thing. People need that core base knowledge before they understand all teh theories. Too many people want to do calculus before they learn how to add.

Is the O'Quinn method in any of Tom's CDs?

Hi Spencer,
The O'Quinn article is in Volume 3 issue 5 and is on the volume 3 cd or the volumes 2 to 9 cd.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia