Looking for tips/tricks to install a Fuji SK2 casting reel seat. I have a few ACS reel seats under my belt but I am hesitant to get started on the SK2 and can't seem to find any installation threads.

Thanks!

Nothing hard about them. Glue your arbors in each part, let dry, ream to fit and glue in place.

Thanks Lance. That info in itself helps.

You can also use an old reel foot to help determine distance between the two pieces. I use one from and old spinning reel that I cut off.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

I too am about to build a rod with an sk2. I'm thinking I'll take the reel I plan on using to space the two pieces in the middle of adjustment so I could use a smaller or bigger reel.sound about right?

Most reel feet are a standard size. Unless you have an odd reel or a fly reel, the foot should be the same size.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

David,

I have been using the Fuji SK2 Reel Seats every since they came out. My customers love them; but I can not say that I have not had any problems with them. I have had a few come loose after installation. I will share with you what I have found to work in solving the problems with installation:

I use an old reel foot to provide the proper spacing as mentioned above. One of the surprises I encountered was with reaming the graphite reel seat arbors. I install my reamer in my 1/2" drill motor and leaned not to over heat the graphite reel seat arbor duefrictiononed created by the reaming process. The heat generated will soften the epoxy used to install the arbor inside of the reel seat and cause the arbor to come loose. When this first happened to me, I thought that my U-40 epoxy had gone bad. I had never had a problem with U-40 Epoxy as it has a long shelf lifepurchasedhsed some new U-40 and much to my surprise I had the same problem occur again. Duh...it finally registered as to what was causing the problem. Not bad epoxy, just heat generated due to aggressive reaming. Take you time and go slow with the reaming.

My second recommendation would be to make sure you have a "break-free" surface on the blank underneath the reel seat area. The epoxy contact areas under the slit grips are not very large and they are subjected to a lot of shear force if the reel seat nut is over tightened, (I advise my clients not to over thighten the reel seat nuts). I mark the area under the reel seat with a china pencil and use a gray Scotch pad to prepare the blank and insure a good epoxy bond under the reel seat. I cover the adjacent area with masking tape to protect it. I also use a Scotch Pad on the inside of the reel seats to help with the epoxy bond there as well. These reel seats are very popular on the bass fishing rods I build for my customers; but they do take some more effort during the installation process.

If you have any more questions, do not hesitate sending me an e-mail.

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

34mm is recomended spacing by fuji

If you plan to use the newer Fuji Winding checks made for the SK2 (WCS) be sure to sand the ends of the foam arbor down about an 1/8 overall for the body piece (spinning or casting). The winding checks are shouldered and provide a perfect fit, but the arbor is a whisker long and the winding checks won't fully seat if you don't knock a few mm off the length of the arbor. Test fit to be sure before gluing.

ernest sebastian Wrote:
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> 34mm is recomended spacing by fuji


Is that from plastic to plastic? I see 40mm (casting setup) on a schematic i found on the web. I will measure multiple times but just want to get a good sense when i do my mark-up.