I just put on my final coat of finish and like I have done before I sanded before hand. This time though I used a fine scotch bright to smooth the smooth it a little more and when I applied finish I could see the sanding stripes still. I quickly wiped the finish off, but now I'm not sure what to do. Is it the scotch bright that messed me up? Time between coats was around 10 hours.

You do not need to sand between coats if you're re-coating within a few days. Most likely you sanded a non-cured finish and rolled sanding gum/debris into the surface which then showed in the marks.

About all you can do now, is wait until the finish is hard enough to sand and re-sand and then re-coat. Next time don't sand it.

..................

Thanks for the quick reply. I had to sand because of a bad spot I have been trying to fix. I have sanded in the same manner the past few days, but it did get colder today. I will let it sit over night and try and work with it in the morning. Might even put a heat lamp on it.

i have sanded dust - fuzzes out of finish after it has dried overnight with DRY 400 grit and have had no problems The finish covered any scratches

Bill - willierods.com

Bill, I've done the same only with 600 or 800 wet/dry paper and used it dry. Done gently, works very well.

when i sand twice with different grid , 1st using 220 and 2nd use 1000 it happen too
maybe because the residue from 2nd grid go into 1st gird scratch

220 is way to ruff a paper to sand finish with I don't think the 1000 will take the scratches off from the 220

Bill - willierods.com

Problem solved. Tom was right, the finish was just to tacky when I first sanded. I have sanded many rods before with no issue, but this one was still soft. I use 150 sand paper. I let it dry overnight and sanded down quite a bit and re finished. No problems.

150 ????

You got to use finner paper

Bill - willierods.com

Actually Bill, you don't. Give it a try and see. I advise wet sanding because little bits of the old epoxy like to adhere to the base epoxy. I use a file a often.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

I agree with Russell on this one.

'150 grit used wet, works just fine. The next coat of finish take care of any scratches left from the sanding.

Roger

I have been very lucky in that I've never had to sand a wrap.

In the event I have a sag or a tag end that is sticking out after the first coat, or between coats, I have always just sliced them off with a razor blade. Once I had a rod fall out of the dryer overnight and the sags were so large they looked cartoonish. A razor blade and another finish coat later...the rod was as good as new.

On the occasion that I've had a contamination spot where a pot mark is left in the finish I have been lucky enough to be able to dab in thickened epoxy to level the surface and recoat with a thin layer of finish.

Sanding wraps just doesn't sound fun to me.

I don't understand all this sanding @#$%&. I have never had to sand between coats if the first one was put on correctly and did not get messed up in some way Try doing it right the first time and you won't have to sand. 150 grit? Unbelieveable!!!

A note taken from automotive painting....you can stand a razor blade on end and scrap a rough spot.a little more precise than sanding used it a lot with automotive clear coats

Gaston,
I agree.
That is exactly the technique that I use, whenever I have to either clean up a blank, or clean up an issue with a guide wrap finish.

Roger

I have used Mark Crouse's technique on butt wraps before with great results. If you haven't read his book on building a themed rod, I encourage you to buy it. He sands with 60 grit after building up the epoxy and then moves to higher grit from there. The result is a perfectly level, glass like finish. It works well when you need to build up over a thick weave, decal, etc. You just have to make sure that you have enough epoxy on to sand without hitting the thread. All of his weaves are sanded this way. I was very skeptical at first, until I tried it.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH