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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/2016 05:22PM by John E Powell.

All my plug trolling rods are built in spiral wrapped fashion - it only makes sense. Tension on the line keeps the reel upright. There is no tendency to twist. Spine plays no role.

Here is some more information you might wish to consider:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/2016 05:22PM by John E Powell.

"If only to a small degree?" Yes, a very, very, very small degree, perhaps not even enough to notice. If you want a less powerful rod, buy a less powerful blank. You're talking only a miniscule difference in power between the stiffest and strongest axis on the same rod blank.

From what you describe, you almost certainly would benefit from a spiral wrapped rod. This would keep the reel upright and facing you while trolling and under the strong drag and heavy strike from a fish.

The thing is, the spine effect just isn't going to play anywhere near the role that guide placement will for your purposes. at least insofar as rod stability. I think the rest of the equation lies in getting just the right blank for what you're doing. I would recommend a true live-bait blank to get the light, flexible and fast tip, but the power of the far heavier mid and butt section. These work great for trolling in many instances.

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I don't have any experience with live bait blanks, I would entertain the notion if I could find a fast action 8' and 9' two-piece blank. Any ideas? The 8' would need to be heavier, maybe 17-40 to 20-50, the 9' maybe 15-30 to 20-40. lb class. I don't know how a lure weight would apply here.

John,
Don't over think this.
Take a peek down the rod and note the straightest side of the blank. Then, use this axis to build you spiral wrapped trolling rod and you will be in good shape.

If there is a bend in the rod, either point the bend so that it is straight up, or straight down. Your choice.

Spiral wrap and enjoy the fishing.

I have spiral wrapped all of my trolling rods and could not be happier.

Roger

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/2016 05:21PM by John E Powell.

You're probably right. The instant you start talking about a multi-piece rod the options dwindle considerably.

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If you are looking for action that would accommodate a diver, and still be long enough to reach outside the downriggers, wouldn't you consider a longer blank? I use the DR or BP series blanks from Batsons for trolling salmon here on the west coast with good success. All my boat rods are spiral wrapped for all the reasons you describe.

Terry

98% of my rod builds are for Charter Captains on Lake Michigan, about half of those are diver rods. I think that many above are right, you may be overthinking this. The very small amount of difference the spine can make on a lighter duty rod is totally thrown out with 20# or more of drag required to just hold the spool while trolling as to not creep line out. Once a fish hits, again, that small difference is moot. I build all of my diver rods in a spiral, always to the left, no reason except for uniformity, it makes zero difference in the fight or troll. I do build a handful of SS wire diver rods with a standard guides on top configuration, but that is only to use a Torpedo swivel wire tip. Actually, my own personal wire rods are built non spiral with Torpedo tips. For shorter diver rods 7-8' I have been having great success with the MHX Musky series blanks. Great fast action to hold reach, nice soft tip that even novice anglers can keep fish hooked up with, and loads of power in the bottom. For the 9-10' rods, I switch over to the two piece surf blanks, again MHX.

You never mentioned which line will be used. Mono, Braid, and SS wire all require a different blank action to be effective. The mono diver rods can use a pretty heavy spined blank due to the amount of stretch in the mono line. For braid and wire, a blank with a softer tip will keep more fish hooked up with inexperienced anglers. You can help this problem on wire with a longer mono leader. The charter boats I work on all use 10-12' mono leaders from the divers to the bait. I use 12' on my boat also. With 12' mono leaders, we don't even use snubbers anymore, and customers have no problems pulling hooks.

When I mate on charter boats or run my own boat, I let the line out with a diver with the reel facing up, like you said, so I can check it periodically for how much line is out according to the counter. Once I am at the depth I want to be, I turn the rod so that the spiral is straight with the direction of pull. Most charter captains do the same. The fish should be fought to the center of the transem, unless on a boat with dual outboards (somewhat rare on the Great Lakes). Either way, the spine or spiral will have no effect on fighting a fish to the net. Once you choose the correct blank, that is the important part, you won't make any headway overthinking spine on these rods or any difference one way or the other. Build a tough handle. Diver rods are @#$%& on grips (rodholders), and a good aluminum reel seat is a must. I have seen diver strikes destroy graphite reel seats on factory rods.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/28/2012 09:51PM by Tony Childs.

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/2016 05:19PM by John E Powell.

John I know nothing about your style of fishing but I'll throw this out there in hopes it will help.

I fish more live bait blanks than anything else. Honestly I think the normal salt water crowd avoids 2pc like the plauge. Ditto on long rods. That leaves surf casting rods, assuming you have exhausted the salmon/steelhead offerings.

From what I understand the problem is having the right tip.....one that can handle the trolling weight yet not pull hooks from soft mouths....and having enough rod length, with a strong enough butt section to perserve that working length, in order to manuver around riggers.

I haven't tried everything but the blanks that have had the best combo of strong but soft tips...and very powerful butt sections...have been lamiglass tri-flex blanks. This is more the inshore/kayak series as the gcbt are just plain stiff over all. They used to offer some longer ones.....they used to offer some travel blanks....and lami is one of the few that will build you whatever they once offered if you buy enough blanks. Now these blanks aren't cheap.....and are very strong for thier ratings....so I'd want you to personally feel them before ordering any.

Just another option to explore. A bit like a live bait blank on steroids....but something once offered in the length and 2/3pc you desire.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

John, talk to Todd Vivian at Mudhole about their MHX1086DR blank. It is 8'6" two piece. As is, the blank doesn't have enough spine or power for diver action, but if you could cut say 7-8" off each end, it would definetly make it an altogether different beast. Todd would be able to tell you if the blank will withstand that type of modification and potentially how it would perform. A two piece 7' or 8' blank is going to be really tough to find. The SU1085F-2-MHX is a good 9' diver blank from MHX. AT doesn't make a 9' surf blank that I have seen. I have used the AT ASXU100H-2 for all diver types. It is right at home with the wire. I love the reach it holds, easily gets around an 8'6 -9' low diver.

I figured that may have been what you were referrencing with the dual outboards. I have a good buddy that fishes a 25' Grady Sailfish with duals. It presents some interesting netting bloopers for sure. There just isn't anything spine or spiral wise that will make any difference. The boat driver, net man, and angler have to really work together with that setup.

One other thing to mention about spiral guides on a wire diver rod. Make sure to really static test the guide placement under heavy load. You have to make sure that the wire can't touch the blank under the most extreme cases. If it touches, it will make your setup a three piece in amazing speed. You won't be casting this rod, so you can get a little more aggressive with a bumper to keep the wire off the blank. Also, the same goes for making sure the line has clearance above the forehand grip. A ticked off king peeling line, heading for the opposite coast will cut the back of a thumb bad if contacts.

Whatever setup you decide to build, be rest assured that it will be light years ahead of any retail offering and your customer will be amazed.