I'm looking to purchase a new lathe for cork work and also considering turning my own reel seats. I know a lot of you use lathes from Harbor Freight. My question,,, is the 5 speed bench top wood lathe they sell for $199 (item #65345) precision enough to handle reel seat work??? Comments please.

Thanks

Jerry

I had one but it was the next one down in price. I finally took it apart and kept the head stock and use it soley for a sanding disc. You get what you paid for.

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

I have one of their mini lathes and it sits on a bench unused as the belt broke and I can't get the head apart to replace it.

______________________________________
Super Tight Lines......Don

Go purchase a Jet 1220.

A quote comes to mind ... "The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of low price has faded from memory".

The proper product will last you quite possibly the rest of your days. Considering the fact that you will spend 2.5X the lathe price on accessories, do the right thing on the primary tool.

A lot of those lathes like the one you mention are copies if the Jet, which is really (I think) a copy of the Vicmarc. Many of them are made in the same factories. What sets them apart is the brand's expectations for quality control and finish. Jet seems to have higher standards than some of the others, which is one reason their lathes cost more. The other is the components that they use, specifically the motor. Penn State, for instance, offers an add-on VS motor for these lathes, one they claim as 1/2 HP. If you look at images of it, though, you'll notice the amperage if the motor is missing from the motor plate. That motor is nowhere near a half horsepower.

Woodturning is as addictive as rod building, and if you get a lathe for reel seats, you soon find your thoughts turning (pardon the pun) to all sorts if other projects. If it were me, I'd buy a Jet or the like, even if it costs more. Be happier in the long run. I have, by the way, an older Jet 1014, the non- VS model, it's a great little lathe, and I don't really need VS, as much as I sometimes might try to convince myself I do.

Ive been using the 5 speed bench top for over 3 years with no issues at all. I only turn cork and EVA at 1600 rpm or less however. I tried the 2200rpm and I simply didnt trust the components to hold up to that speed long term. I honestly would call it a 3 speed and would not recommend using the highest speed at all, and use the 2nd highest with caution. I got it for 100 bucks from a friend, so I cant complain.

Is it the best in the world? Not at all! But the bottom line is - will it work for what I need? The answer is yes.

Edit: Tail Stock is MT2 Taper everywhere although specifications say otherwise.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/19/2012 10:37AM by Sean Cheaney.

[www.harborfreight.com]

[woodworking.rockler.com]

[www.rockler.com]

[www.rockler.com]

This one is likely the same lathe with a slightly different motor and a light added:
[www.pennstateind.com]

To answer your question.
It "appears" that the harbor freight lathe is an imported lathe, that "appears" to be sold under different brands and with different paint on them by different vendors.

When you examine the details of some of the other various lathes, I think you will find that there are other models that are "virtually" identical as well . i.e. the same lathe with a different brand on the name plate and perhaps a different color on the lathe.

I have used the lathe that you are considering and it works very well. If you read the reviews on the lathe that they sell, (different brand - same lathe) they comment on the speed changing. I have used the speed changing for the lathe, and it is not an issue at all. The owner of the lathe, just leaves the back cover off of the lathe for easy access to the belt, and speed changing is about a 10 second job. Variable speed would be nice, but since a very large part of lathe work is done at the same speed - the manual speed changing is not that big a deal.

---------------------------
It is very important to note the comments that have been posted earlier about accessories. You will very likely spend at least 2X the purchase price of the lathe on accessories to make your lathe into the really useful tool that you want it to be. I know that has been the exact story for every lathe that I have purchased over the years.

I also think that it is very important on some of these tools that are at the low end of the price range to "literally" take them apart, when you first purchase them, so that you understand how they go together and to also double check the fit and finish on the internal parts of the machine. You can also double check the final adjustment and alignment of the tool as well as to insure that all fastners are secure.

If you note the comments on some of the reviews on these low end machines about the fit and finish having a little projecting piece here and there that needed to be cleaned up before final use of the machine. I worked with the owner of his lathe and found it to be generally fine, but there were a couple of tiny spots that were made better by a bit of polishing and filing.

Both the headstock and tail stock of this machine uses MT2 hardware. So, the standard MT2 hardware fits and works very well on the machine.

Also, if you happen to have any MT1 hardware, like some of the smaller chucks, you can purchase MT2 to MT2 adapters for adapting chucks to the head stock and or tail stock.

Just a short list of potential accessories.
1. A pair of MT2 keyless chucks - one for the head stock and one for the tail stock to hold standard rod stock and drill bits. A keyless chuck will work many times better for this chore than a standard 3 jaw chuck of any brand.
2. A few different tail stock pieces. Both pointed, as well as threaded revolving tail stocks to fit chucks. This allows you to secure a long piece of work in the tail stock, if you have the need to chuck in an irregular piece when turning the piece.
3. A few different chucks for the head stock. Simply put, some chucks will work better for one type work, but other type works simply works and is held better with a different chuck.
4. Some more different length and different style tool rests. The simple short tool rest that comes with the machine works fine, but if you have long or irregular shaped work pieces - the speciality tool rests really enhance the ability of the user to quickly work the piece.
5. A good " starter set" of turning tools. You can initially start with some inexpensive gouges and shaper tools, but as you do more, you will find that you will want to get higher quality cutting tools to reduce the amount of tool piece sharapening that you need to do.
6. Not a lathe accessory - but a nice 1 inch wide 30 or 42 inch belt sander is a nice tool to have near the lathe to sharpen the tools when turning. A sander like this only takes a second or two for perfectly sharp tools. Other sharpeners can work but are not as convenient.

I had some larger metal working chucks from some time ago, that I wanted to adapt to this size lathe for general use. I picked up some raw threaded back plates that matched the 1X8 threads on the head stock.
I then had a good friend with a very large metal working lathe that took on the job of adapting the back plates to my large metal working chucks. He found that he did not have the necessary tooling to hold the adapter plate in his lathe for turning the back plate. So, I suggested that I remove the head stock shaft from the new lathe for use in his lathe. Perfect solution. After removing the head stock from the new lathe, he was able to easily chuck the head stock shaft in his metal working lathe. Then, for each of the new back plates, he simply screwed the back plate to the head stock that he had mounted in his lathe. The nice thing about this solution, was that if there were any imperfection in the threads on either the head stock or backplate, The big metal working lathe, turned out any back plate rounout or wobble. After truing each backplate to 0 run out and turning the diameter of each back plate to perfectly fit the larger metal turning chucks that I had, he then bored the necessar matching holes in the backplate for easy attachment to the metal working chucks.
So, now I am able to make use of these larged metal working chucks that have been gathering dust on my work shop shelves for several years with no fit for my other lathe that I had before.

So, now either of these chucks easily screw on to the 1X8 head stock shaft and have 0 run out or wobble, and allow for easy passage of a long rod like a mandrel to pass through the center of the head stock shaft if needed when working a handle or other work piece.

-----------------------------------
Summary ,
The lathe that you are looking at will do a very good job of turning grips for rod building. But, as has been noted above - be aware that a lower end or less expensive lathe, may be a bit rough around the edges and should be carefully checked up on purchase. If any hidden rough edges exist on the lathe, they should be removed before using the lathe for good long life on the lathe. If you do this, and if you also purchase any needed accessories as you go along for a particular job, you will have a very useful tool for a long time to come.

You can call Rockler and order parts from them for this lathe with the Harbor freight brand on it, since it appears to be the same lathe. In particular, it is never a bad idea to have an extra belt or two for a tool like this. You don't want to be in the middle of a big project, and have a simple broken belt keep you from finishing the project. The belt should last for years, but stuff happens, so always be prepared.

You should also reread the post by Jim Gamble, because it is very very true. Sometimes saving a little money at the beginning costs you many times more before the end.

Be safe
Roger

By the way, with respect to Sean's comments on turning speed.
I have turned numerous projects on the 5 speed lathe, where I do the final turning at the very higest speed of 3400 rpm.

I do have excellent chucks and tail stock accessories. But there is no issue at all with the motor, head stock shaft, or head stock bearings holding up.

I do my initial turning at rather slow speeds, when the work stock is irregular. But as the piece is cleaned up and especially for the final turning, I like to use very light pressure with very fine grit paper at very high work piece speed for the perfect finish.,

If you think about it, the motor speed is the same. The only thing that you are changing is the speed of the head stock, head stock bearings, the tail stock and tail stock bearings . But both head stock and tail stock have excellent bearings so only need to spin at a faster speed.

Good luck
Roger

I'm just going to throw this out there. a few years ago the wife said my full size lathe was too dirty and went out and got me a Rikon mini variable speed lathe. she got it at Woodcraft on a black Friday sale.
I just got my woodcraft Black Friday flyer and it's on sale again for around $229.(don't quote me as the flyer is at home)
I've done a ton of fly grips and reel seats on it and I think it's a nice machine for the money. My only complaint is that it came with only a 4" tool rest and I had to upgrade to 6" for about $24. accessories are readily available and it sports the common 1x8 thread size.

Gary,
You are lucky.
A lot of wives would have just bought you a bottle of soap and a scrub brush for you if your lathe was too dirty.

Roger

I love my Rikon Mini. Hasn't let me down. I did get the bed extension for it. If my wife noticed how dirty it was, she would probably ask, "When did you get that?" LOL

Thanks for all the comments guys. A lot of information to digest. Roger, I ran out of breath reading your comments. Thanks. That took a lot of your time and a lot of thought to write all of that, but good information. I appreciate it, and all the others that gave me food for thought.

Jerry

Roger had an excellent summary, as always. Most of us have learned that if you spend a little more money, the tool you buy will be best for the job and last as long as you want to build rods.

I will add that I purchased the variable speed conversion for the PSI Turncrafter Pro and it broke on my 2nd project. I ultimately returned it for credit after reading a number of users had the same issue. Jet is a solid brand. My other suggestion is to move up to the midi size and get one that is at least 17" between the centers so you can turn long grips for 2-handed rods. No need to mess with a bed extension if you get one this size, for rod building needs anyway.

Do figure on spending about as much on tools and accessories if you want to turn any wood, reel seats included. You'll need a good chuck, a few turning tools and something to sharpen them with.

Terry

As I mentioned previously, the Jet 1220 is a good choice. It is 20" between centers. After using it, I don't know how guys get by with less space. The motor is VERY strong, which not only adds to durability and ability, but also safety. They go on sale from time-to-time in the $500 range. I bought mine when they were still under $400, but those days are gone. I would recommend a total budget of $1K. Do that and you will have a "lifetime" solution that will allow you to turn whatever you please - cork, composites, acrylics, wood, stabilized wood, etc.

Terry,
You mention that you purchased the speed conversion, but it broke on the 2nd project.
The question is:
Did the lathe break or did the DC motor and speed controller break?
i.e. was the Lathe and standard AC motor all right, but only the DC conversion break, or did the lathe itself break?

I have looked a bit at these conversion motors and was considering a purchase.

Roger

I have a turncrafter pro VS and have turned hundreds of inserts and grips and never had one single issue with it. It has now been replaced by the turncrafter commander, but basically the same.

Ron Weber

I (and many others) have used the variable;e speed conversion kit since it came out several years ago and have not had any problems whatsoever. This is the first complaint that I have heard on it

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/21/2012 11:04PM by Mike Barkley.

Ron / Mike
Thanks for the update.

By the way, since you have one - when you turn on the power switch does the motor start to rotate instantly, or is there a delay in startup due to the motor control?

The reason that I ask, is that I have another 3/4 hp DC motor with an integrated speed control. It works very very well. But I do notice that when I hit the power switch, there is about a 2-3 second delay in the motor start due to the apparent control delay.

Thanks for your help.

Roger

Hi Roger,

The DC variable speed motor that I received as the upgrade installed easily and worked well on the first project. The second project the circuit breaker tripped and would not recover. I read reviews on this conversion and found that a lot of people had the same problem. I returned the motor for full credit and reinstalled the AC motor. I'm back to changing belts but it's reliable.

Hope this helps. I wouldn't buy it. They didn't even whimper when I asked to return it for credit.

Terry

I bought a Jet used on craigslist and it came with a nova chuck and some chisels and gouges. I can buy additional Nova jaws when I need them. It is a good tool. I also have a Jet table saw and dust collector. Jet is a good brand.