So I just bought a guide graph to help me figure out guide placement, and I'm having trouble figuring out how this thing works. The instructions aren't the best, and I can't seem to get a rod to match any of the lines on the graph. Does anybody know of any instructional videos to help me out here? I'm getting very confused and frustrated with guide placement. I'm new and want to build the best rod possible and don't want to mess up a good rod by incorrectly placing the guides. I just can't wrap my head around what is the best way to do it, because it seems everybody has got a different opinion on the best way to do it. I haven't takena class or had any help as of yet, and would really like somebody to give me some solid advice or recommend a video on how to place guides and why it's done that way. Thanks!

Mike,
Guide placement can be summarized as follows:
Use enough, but only enough guides so that the line will follow the flex of the loaded rod.

With the positions determined, then, all that you have to do is to select appropriate guide sizes.

Whenever setting up a new rod, I have a bunch of strips of tape to mark spots on the rod. Then, I begin to flex the rod, from the tip. as the tip flexes, mark the first spot, then flex the tip further, and mark the spot. Continue flexing the rod to simulate a fully loaded rod. then, as you look at the tape locations on the rod, verify that the placement is such that line will follow the contour of the loaded blank.

Of course, as the blank stiffens toward the butt of the rod, the guide distance will increase which is in line with the stiffer section of the rod.

Simply put, if the guide placement looks right and the line follows the contour of the loaded blank, the placement is right. This is a very simple thing to do. Don't over think it or make it too complicated.


Be safe
REW

Hi Mike,
There is only one way to get the guides in the right place and that's were the line follows the blank curve well and the load on the rod is evenly distributed. By far the best way to do that is the static test, then adjust the guides so that they meet both criterea. Basically get the tip glued on straight then tie a stronger line to the ring than you will use on the rod. Tie the other end to something like a bucket of water while having enough line so that your not over the top of it. Maximum bend is 90 degrees. You have to start somewhere with the guide placement until you get more experience. Space the first 3 or 4 at about four inches then gradually increase the spacing until you get them all on. Run the line through the guides and tie it off as well. Get the bend in the rod then wind the line up until it is just tight. Might be easier if you can get someone to do the rod work then you can eyeball the line and guides from the side. The line should follow the blank curve fairly well and the angle the line makes should be the same at each guide. The last 3 or 4 won't have any angle as the tip will be straight. Add or subtract guides and move them around till both criterea are met. Sounds a bit complicated but it isn't difficult and you will get a lot quicker. With the angles the same and the line following the blank curve it will be evenly loaded. As the tip is straight you end up with more guides than needed in this area unless you don't mind the look of guides being further apart near the tip than the area where most of the bending occurs. Overheads and spinning rods will be dfferent. For more info on guide placement and sizes check the library and do a search using "all dates". I've never used a guide graph in 35 years and think they're basically a waste of cash as even the same model blanks can have different guide placement.
It's not "rocket science" so take it easy and think about it, the rod needs to be evenly loaded and it's not hard to do that. Good luck.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

x10 Col
Roger

Mike-welcome. You are likely stressing way too much.

Forget the "guide graph" what ever that is.

Most blanks have a suggested guide spacing from the manufacturer. If that's the case for your blank and it's the first one you've done, I highly recommend you use the factory suggested spacing and build your rod. It will be awesome. When you're new, you don't want to be worrying about static testing and all of that. Get a couple of builds under you belt to learn the mechanics of it and then look into deeper custom work.

If you post up the blank you are using, someone here is likely to have suggested spacing for you.

In my mind, the first few rods you make are practice. You will make good functional rods. After 5 rods you will make better rods than you can buy locally. After 10, you will make better rods than you can buy on Amazon. After 20, you will make better rods than you can get any where else, but another custom builder.

It is always smart money to build a few inexpensive blanks before launching into the higher end of rod building. I've rebuilt my first 3 rods about 3 times each, as figured out what I was doing.

Good luck, but please post up what you are building. There are a lot of really excellent rodbuilders here that will provide tons of help.

Drew

Casting: [www.rodbuilding.org]

Spinning: [www.rodbuilding.org]

.............

Mike,

This may also help some to visualize it:

[anglersresource.net]

[anglersresource.net]

Chuck

Think I have it figured out after some trial and error, thanks guys

Easy thing to do is start with a well known blank maker Place the guides as per there spacing Like St Croix
Then Static Test adjust Test cast adjust if needed - wrap - Fish and enjoy

Bill - willierods.com