Hello everybody,
I open a new thread with an old one to be sure someone could help me because as I want to try hydro dipping decal to coat a blank before wrapping it, I've done some inquiries on the web, the better will be to participate a two days training proposed by a company,
but nobody do this kind of training here, in France. Maybe something to dig...
So, for those who have done this kind of coating yet, I have some questions.
- Is the water T° of the tank important?
- What about the quantity of "activator" you must spray on the film to dissolve the carrier?
- Is the use of "primer" is necessary on a sanded graphite blank?
- When the decal is dry, could it be coated directly with permagloss or before you must use the clear coat the company sells?
I know that there is an article on RM about this, but the CD incuding this issue isn't ready at RODPRO Germany,
and in France, it's quite difficult.
Anyway, thank you for helping.
Pierre

"Il ne faut pas sous-estimer le courage des Catalans,ce sont eux qui ont découvert que les escargots sont comestibles"

I am also experimenting with hydro dipping. Not specifically with rod blanks but some other objects.

From my very breif experience water temp is not all that critical. I just use normal warm tap water. I have always applied some sort of base coat and at times have also used adheasion promotor on the object prior to dipping.

I have also used adheasion promotor as an activator with success.

I have not tried any type of permagloss or resin type coating as I am using automotive clear as a top coat

so far im having good success.

I'm guessing you're in France so this may not help you, but Rodmaker mag did a complete step by step article and photo shoot on the hydro dipping process in one of their magazines about two years ago.

you tube has a lot of info on the process

Hello Pierre.

The man you need to talk to is John Timberlake, he did the demo's at the ICRBE year before last (I think).

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

Thank you guys for your help.
Mr John Timberlake, If you read this, I will be very pleased to share with you.
Pierre

temp important-yes
activator-depends on film used
primer or undercoat is necessary but no necessarily the manufacturers. h2o based paints work best. the film actually etches into the paint
permagloss will most likely be too hot(but i havent tried it)

I have done blank sections with great results. there was definate learning curve to do round pieces. if you did a whole blank i think it would be best with 2 people just to help control the blank as you dip it. it is the surface tension that applies the film. you have to find the right tension without going too far(too deep) or you will be starting all over again

one thing to consider with doing round pieces like a blank or reel seat is the pattern. some patterns are really neat, but are either too large to show up on the small pieces we are using or the seam will be very noticeable and unsightly.

Thank you john,
the film I think to order is solded by "liquidprintone.com", and the pattern is a camo one (so no seam's bad issues)
but the problem is the chemicals which are solded by gallon! So I must find a retailler.
For the H2O paint, is the colour important, and is it better to airbrush it?
And watching some videos, I was thinking for working alone, to dip the blank using a tackle and pulleys to do it slowly and keeping a flat level.
The better will be to find a french retailler, but there isn't, so I pick up some tricks everywhere I can, and I thank you all for not hesitating to share your knowledge
Pierre.

"Il ne faut pas sous-estimer le courage des Catalans,ce sont eux qui ont découvert que les escargots sont comestibles"

the thing with dipping a round object is you have to roll it when you get the correct tension so the film goes all the way around without submerging the piece. multi piece blank sections are fine as you can hold each end controlling the piece and roll effectively. it is the same with reel seats or any round object. it is not just dipping and submerging the piece.

the temp and the amount of activator go hand in hand and there is a learning curve. i used pieces of pvc pipe to "teach" myself. they are cheap and easily obtained

the base coat can determine you outcome. If you have a film that is transparent or translucent then the base color can and will make a difference

Thank you very much John,
I think the thing to do is ordering twice more than what I had planned and teach myself.
I hope not to be a dunce, because components are not given.
Pierre

"Il ne faut pas sous-estimer le courage des Catalans,ce sont eux qui ont découvert que les escargots sont comestibles"