What is a good speed for a finishing motor?

I used 30RPM for lite formula.it give good result
but if i have a chance to upgrade it, i'll use 200rpm

Finishing = 200rpm
Drying = 18rpm

This is what I would recommend. I actually finish and very slightly begin drying by hand and THEN switch to a Flexcoat wall-mount quad finish dryer at 18rpm.

3-6 RPM is optimum for drying but if you wish to apply the finish while the rod turns under power a much faster rotation is desired. One can rotate by hand much faster than the 3-6RPM with one hand turning and the other applying. When the application is completed place the rod in the slow motor for drying time.

Fast rotation while drying will impart centrifugal force on the finish and can yield unwanted results yet faster rotation while applying can make that process faster and cleaner as long as your not spinning out of control (so to speak).

I prefer to apply my finish using my rod lathe motor with the reostat set down & foot pedal with the rod in a Flex-Coat slip-chuck. I can apply finish quickly & smoothly with both hands free and with the max speed set down I can't zoom by mistake. Then I can put the rod in a very slow speed drying motor.

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

X10 on Raymond's comments on using the power wrapper to apply finish. Quick, easy, can start and stop as needed and can use the necessary speed to get nice clean edges.

With various type finishes I have tried various drying speeds. I think that essentially any speed from about 5 rpm to about 10 rpm is perfect.

I have dried a few rods at speeds faster than about 10 rpm and in nearly every case have had had some issues with epoxy slinging to form footballs on the guide wraps. i.e. the rod is going so quickly as to force the epoxy to puddle in the middle of the wrap getting thicker due to the force from the drying rod. I have found that this seems to be true, whether the finish is a thin or a thick finish and also whether the finish is applied in a thin coat or a thicker coat.

But, if I keep the drying speed under 10 rpm, then no issues with the thickening of the finish in the center of the guide forming finish footballs.

Be safe
REW

I have always applied the finish while rotating the rod by hand on a set of rollers. When the finish is applied, I keep rotating it as I move it to the drying motor set up which is set for 18 rpm. This speed is fast enough to prevent saging and slow enough to move the finish in any direction but level.

I second apply by hand and rotate at 3 rpm.

My post should have read " slow enough to NOT move the finish in any direction but level. Fingers got ahead of my mind. :>)

Not to be contrary, but IMO there should never be "movement" or "footballing" of epoxy if correct amounts are applied. Although I dry rods at 18rpm, I wouldn't hesitate to dry them at lower or higher speeds.

Jim,
I don't necessarily agree with that.
I prefer to complete a finish in one application. So, I put on the first coat and let it dry for about 10 minutes. Then, I will touch up as needed to insure that all of the threads are completely covered.
As a result, there is a slight build up on the threads as needed. But, if I let the rod spin at speeds over about 10 rpm, there will be enough force to football the finish.

I could put the finish on very thin and then put on two or three coats, but that will end up taking another drying cycle on the rod.

The important thing is that every rod builder will come up with building and finishing techniques that work for him. He/ She will have equipment that will work with those techniques. If you need to dry spinning fast - fine.

If, on the other hand, you need to dry, spinning slow - that is also fine.

Just know your materials and techniques and then use appropriate methods that work well for those things.

Be safe
Roger