Hi All,

I am trying to get my first EVA grip done, and have a few issues, that I need help with.

The block EVA is from Mudhole, and the EVA sheets are from the local craft store.

I am gluing patterns in all directions - similar to Billy V's abstract designs, and my issue is that after I have shaped the grip with the chisel, and doing the final shape/sand, the sheets are not flush with the harder EVA block.

How can I rectify these ridges?

I have also noticed that where the two EVA meet, the lines are not sharp, but slightly jagged.

Can this be caused from the chisel not being sharp enough, or the fact that my lathe is actually a drill, and there is not enough speed to get a clean cut.

Also I have found that the Mudhole EVA is a little softer than the factory rods that I have here, which have both EVA and Hypalon.

About a week ago I made a thumb indent into the block EVA, and still now I can just feel the dent it left. I am not trying to be picky nor questioning the quality of the Mudhole EVA, it's only that some of these rods will be used by teenagers, and I don't want the grips to damage easily.



Thanks,

Richard

What are you cutting the EVA sections with? If the surface of your cut pieces isn't smooth, then the junctions between the pieces once turned won't be smooth either.

Some EVA is a denser than others. It comes in a wide variety of hardnesses. You may be faced with sourcing some harder EVA and cutting your own strips from the same blocks on a band saw.

.................

The test grip was cut with a hacksaw blade, as it was the finest blade I had.

I have just cut the next test EVA with a knife.

Unfortunately I don't own or have access to a band saw, so I will try and improvise the best I can.

I am more concerned about the raised contrast sections at the moment, as these are causing the most issues.

Thanks.

They're softer so they tend to just move away from the cutting tool rather than reduce as the rest of the grip does. Get the grip shape and size close, then shave any excess trim with a sharp razor, then sand to smooth them over and that should put you about as close as you'll get.

If you produce your own thin strips from the same blocks you use for the main grip area, everything will tend to reduce at about the same rate.

.............

Have you tried a sanding block under the paper? Works well for cork/eva mixes.

X10 On Spencer's comments.

Use various grades of sandpaper, backed by a sanding block - with light pressure and you should be able to clean up your grip.
By using light pressure, the sandpaper does not compress the Eva and as long as you use fresh sharp sandpaper of the appropriate grid, you should be able to get the grip cleanly sanded and smooth.
It also helps to use high speed on the lathe when sanding.

Roger

I will give the block and sandpaper ago.

However it will be tricky on some parts, as the grip is not totally straight, it will have a few curves similar to a full wells grip.

Thanks,

Richard

And also the High Speed

Bill - willierods.com

If you need blocks and strips with matching densities so this common problem you are having reduces, here is what I stock & sell: [northeastrodbuilders.com]. I cut the strips from 1 to 6mm and I can bore the blocks for you. This will prevent the craft foam from doing that and give you access to more colors for your grips.

In addition to what has already been posted, teh jagged edge thing was covered by TOm.

Your specific problem - 1> do most of teh shaping as you have on your drill set up. If you have a power lathe instal the grips on the rod and do the finish sanding there. What ofen happens is after yu shape the grips on the mandrel and pop it off to instal on the rod - teh grip shape changes. Sometimes it's not bored perfectly straight, sometimes the pieces aren't glue up perfectly, sometimes you installed the grip on teh mandrel and it's twisted, sometimes the grip is so tight on the mandrel it expands teh craft foam and when you pull it off the craft foam constricts. THere are a LOT of things that can go "wrong", but here's teh thing - NOBODY is going to notice the little things like you do, so don't worry so much. A lotof people expect a perfect grip and it's not a realistic goal especailly after doing a handful of grips.
2> sandpaper - I don't know what you are using, I was selling sanding kits with high quality paper that lasts for hundreds of grips. Regardless, you need to get teh block round with the SKEW chisel (and you cut with the point peeling the corners, you don't use it like you would with wood). THen switch to 40 grit to get it round. DO nto go too far with 40 or the sanding marks will go deep and especailly mess up the craft foam. Switch to 80 and reduce the size, then 120, should be about 1/16" - 1/8" thicker than you want the grip to be. Finish shapes and turning to size with 150. The 150 isn't so aggresive and it will make both materials even. The sanding block tip you have to explore yourself, it works fo rme sometimes, but I have a problem and tend to press too hard and screw up my grips when I use it. I never use it now, and my grips are pretty much seamless. Finish sanding with 220, keep going to 320 and 600 if you like, wet denim if you choose.

Post a pic of the grips!!