i still new to this addiction but the rods I've built so far have been bass casting rods to handle up to 17# line or so. I've been attaching the tips with glue stick made for this purpose. I then wrap thread over the tube on the tip top and put on a light coat of finish. It's worked well. I'm currently working on a Muskie rod that is more heavy duty than the others. Should I use a bit of epoxy in the tube of the tip top when I put it on to make the attachment stronger, or is the glue stick sufficient?

Steve Hartzell
Lake Conroe - Willis, Texas

Provided you're getting some of the hot melt glue inside the tiptop you're apt to be fine. I've even installed heavy duty saltwater tiptops this way and never in many years had one let go. The wrap and epoxy over the tiptop tube has a lot to do with making it very secure.

But there is nothing wrong with 5-minute epoxy for this purpose and no doubt it creates an even stronger attachment of the tiptop to the rod blank. Your only question is, do you need that attachment to be stronger?

The former is generally strong enough for most fishing types and easy to remove if tiptop replacement is required. The latter is stronger if you need it, but requires a little bit more effort to remove if replacement is required.

...................

Steve,
Actually, as Tom suggested, you are likely fine with the hot melt glue.

Having said that, most of the builders around here that build Musky rods, use 5 minute epoxy to attach the tips.

Roger

I have built a lot of muskie rods using hot melt for the tip top. I do it "Flex Coat" style (like on their video) where you make thin strips of hot melt with a glue gun, then insert the strip in to the tip top, heat the tip and install. It works very well, even on musky rods.

Thanks - Marc

Keep it simple - that's all I can handle!

Mark,
A very simple way to do hot melt tip installs if you like to use the hot melt.
Heat up the glue, and put a nice dab of glue all of the way around the tip of the rod.
Heat up the tip and push the hot glue into the tip to get some of the glue into the tip.

Then, heat up both the tip as well as the glue on the tip of the rod and put on the tip. While the glue is still warm, use a craft stick to wipe off any excess glue. Adjust the tip as needed.

Very quick and simple and you will have an excellent bond.

The secret is to get melted glue on the rod tip all of the way around the tip. Then, when the glue is melted, it will completely fill the tip with no air space and a solid glue connection.

Roger

I like to use the stuffing of the tip method like FC demonstrates. My concern with an epoxy would be the removal of the tip if the insert got a cut or it got smashed and the insert popped out. I have replaced tips that were glued and they usually pop right off with heat. I have removed some with epoxy and it can be a mutha (at least to me). It is almost easier to just take the loss and cut the blank behind the tip, because it is easy to scorch the blank with the heat required to break it down.

Thanks for the suggetions, the method I've been using (learned at a Mudhole class) is to slice thin, stuff the tube, and melt onto the rod. It's worked well and sounds like it will with this build also. From what I've read if you use the 5-minute epoxy and need to remove it, it can be done with a heat gun.

Steve Hartzell
Lake Conroe - Willis, Texas

Steve,
If you have an epoxy glued on tip, you might try the following guide that I learned from this forum.

Take a heavy binder and put it into a paper clip.

Take the paper clip and hook it into the tip that is going to be removed.

Then, stretch out the rubber binder in one hand and hold the rod blank in the other hand. Now, stretch the binder tight.

Run the tip over an alcohol burner for a quick heating of the tip. Rotate the tip as you do this. As soon as there is the slightest bit of give in the epoxy gluing the tip, the pressure from the rubber band will pop the tip off the end of the blank.

Thus, you are getting the tip off of the rod using the least amount of heat possible.

Take care
Roger

Steve Roger is spot on except he forgot to add "stand to the side" not directly in front or you could wear the hot tip

Regards Baz

Bundeena
NSW Australia

Barry,
Thanks - right on!!


A broken hand could result if you don't.
Roger

If you epoxy the tip top and the ceramic insert in the tip top cracks or chips be prepared to cut off the blank and buy a new tip top with a bigger tube . To avoid overheating the end of the rod blank and avoid damaging/weakening the heat-sensitive resin that bonds the graphite fibers I press a small, cheap, "pencil point" electric soldering iron against the tube of the tiptop until the heat-melt glue liquifies. I believe this provides me more control over the heat the blank tip endures than the use of any open flame.

If you epoxy the tip top and the ceramic insert in the tip top cracks or breaks be prepared to cut off the blank and buy a new tip top with a bigger tube . To avoid overheating the end of the rod blank and avoid damaging/weakening the heat-sensitive resin that bonds the graphite fibers I press a small, cheap, "pencil point" electric soldering iron against the tube of the tiptop until the heat-melt glue liquifies. I believe this provides me more control over the heat the blank tip endures than the use of any open flame.

Good point Phil, one thing I failed to mention is that this is a fiberglass blank. My brother (the "customer") wanted a 6' rod with flexibility and muscle. I had a tough time coming up with a blank that would fit his requirements. I enden up with a 7' fiberglass blank that I cut 3.5 inches off the butt and 2 inches off to tip. The result is a strong, 6.5 ' rod with the characteristics he wants. I convinced him he could make it work at 6.5 feet. I've come to the decision that I'm going to build this rod tip using the hot glue. I'd rather do that than have to sacrifice inches in the future if he abused the tip and it had to be replaced, and I had to cut off the end. I think the glue will be fine, but if it has to be replaced, it will be easier and I'll use epoxy then.

Steve Hartzell
Lake Conroe - Willis, Texas

Steve,
Either epoxy or heat melt glue will work fine.
For either, use the rubber binder method to pop off the tip. A bit of heat on the tip will result in the tip popping off.
Roger