roger wilson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Mark,
> Just a couple of comments.
> Cleaning any items of coating epoxy tends to be a
> bit of a bother and can turn into a major bother.
>
> So, in spite of the other comment about mixing
> cups, I very much prefer the use of the plastic
> mixing cups for both slow drying assembly epoxy as
> well as finish epoxy.
> I go to the local grocery store and go to the Deli
> Dept. I ask for a couple stacks of their Deli
> sample plastic cups. these are typically 2-3 oz
> cups and they generally charge me about $2 for 400
> cups. So, a very inexpensive purchase.
>
> Also, I never clean coating brushes. Rather, I buy
> the very inexpensive brushes for coating, buy them
> in bulk and pay about 5 cents each for the
> brushes.
>
> With respect to the alcohol. Walmart is just fine
> for the purchase. Just be sure to go to the Paint
> Dept in Walmart and pick up the 100% alcohol that
> is used for paint thinning and cleaning. Do, not
> go to the drug store and get the watered down
> alcohol that is about 30% non alcohol.
>
> Also, a quart of Acetone, a quart of Lacquer
> thinner, a quart of Mineral spirits and a quart
> of Xylene is not a bad idea. Each of these
> liquids will have a very good application some of
> the time in Rod building. As with any chemical, be
> sure to follow all guidelines for proper
> ventilation and use when using. Simply put,
> Alcohol will not do the best job all of the time
> for your use in rod building.
>
> With respect to guides, also consider the use of
> the Pac Bay minima guides. In recent years, many
> of my clients and customers like the use of the
> Minima guides on their rods. Very very light,
> quite inexpensive and they do an excellent job on
> most rods for most applications in fresh water.

Thanks for your thoughts Roger!
On the PacBay Minima guides, am I understanding it correctly that these are stainless steel rings, no ceramic type rings?
Are the PacBay sizes equal to Fuji sizes, a 6 is a 6 is a 6 or?

Hi Mark,
Your welcome. It's nice to get a reply like that. There has been a few guys lately that get good backed up advice and can't be bothered to say thanks, some manners would be appreciated as some of us old farts that have not gone down the Alzheimers track yet have good memories and they mighten get a reply next time. Sent you some attachments that show all the new stuff that is not on their website yet. A problem with sending that, will give it another go.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/17/2012 11:04AM by Col Chaseling.

Col Chaseling Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Hi Mark,
> Your welcome. It's nice to get a reply like that.
> There has been a few guys lately that get good
> backed up advice and can't be bothered to say
> thanks, some manners would be appreciated as some
> of us old farts that have not gone down the
> Alzheimers track yet have good memories and they
> mighten get a reply next time. Sent you some
> attachments that show all the new stuff that is
> not on their website yet. A problem with sending
> that, will give it another go.

Cannot imagine at least giving thanks for help rendered, just the right thing to do!

roger wilson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Also, a quart of Acetone, a quart of Lacquer
> thinner, a quart of Mineral spirits and a quart
> of Xylene is not a bad idea. Each of these
> liquids will have a very good application some of
> the time in Rod building. >

I think this is the recipe for Alzheimers!

_________________________________________
"Angling is extremely time consuming.
That's sort of the whole point." - Thomas McGuane



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/17/2012 03:23PM by Chuck Mills.

I put denatured alchohol in my burner. I use Wal-Mart 91% IPA for everything else. No need for Acetone or Xylene in normal rod building.

_________________________________________
"Angling is extremely time consuming.
That's sort of the whole point." - Thomas McGuane

Nothing but denatured alcohol, rubbing alcohol and Goo Gone in my shop.

80 % alcohol from the drug store All cleaning is done with it
Mid-Temp lacquer thinner from home depot for hard jobs and cleaning brushes Put into a Small Mayonnaise jar
High build finish Which can be made to a light build I am frugal Light Build will work well at least two coats First coat next day sand with 400 to get rid of boo boos Then second coat
Flex coat CP - very slightly thinned works well and no problems as some have with the newer stuff - And takes heat well
As you get into it you can make your own lath from a drill And it looks like you are Handy Nice wrapper
Packing tools cutting tools I use cheep paper towels for all my cleaning Some say they fall apart Must be the way I use them Never had a problem

Have Fun

Bill - willierods.com

Jim Gamble Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Nothing but denatured alcohol, rubbing alcohol and
> Goo Gone in my shop.

Oh, yup. I think the stuff I have is Goof Off.

_________________________________________
"Angling is extremely time consuming.
That's sort of the whole point." - Thomas McGuane

Chuck Mills Wrote:
> Oh, yup. I think the stuff I have is Goof Off.


Goof Off has some of the "bad stuff" in it. Goo Gone is a citrus based product that removes sticky residue. Great for cleaning up removal of factory labels, bad installations of decals, tape backing, etc. It is some great stuff and it doesn't harm any finish or material that I have ever used it on. I think it should be in every household, very handy product.

Jim - I had to go look. It is Goo Gone that I have.

_________________________________________
"Angling is extremely time consuming.
That's sort of the whole point." - Thomas McGuane

Hi Gents,
Good old Aussie eucalyptus oil is also good for getting rid of all that sticky stuff and has a lot of other uses. Plenty of those trees in the States so it should be readily available.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

I can't think of any reason for Xylene, etc in a Rod shop (or anywhere else in the house). In well over 20 years of building, I have never run across a situation that Denatured alcohol couldn't handle. I much prefer to keep what little mental capacity that I have intact.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Alcohol from Wal-Mart for clean up. Buy it in the Pharmacy section by the quart. Take my word for it and a few others here with Many years of rodbuilding experience that you'll never run into a situation where you'll need the harsh and dangerous chemicals that was recommended a few posts up.

Lance

Mike,
Actually, any time that you work with an epoxy product - Xylene is the preferred solvent by epoxy manufacturers.

Alcohol works to a degree, but for some very special applications doesn't come close to meeting the solvent abilities of Xylene and Epoxy.

As with any chemical - follow ALL MSDS safety regulations and requirements. The primary requirement for Xylene is to have excellent ventilation, and glove protection against skin ingestion. But, this same requirement is really part of nearly any chemical that a rod builder uses.

[en.wikipedia.org]

But, as you, Lance and others suggest, if you don't have to use a chemical that isn't highly aromatic as is the case for both Xylene and Acetone - then don't use them.

Take care
REW

I truly appreciate all of the help from this board! To those who have emailed me info and suggestions, THANKS so much. I am so close now to making the next order to start my first build...I feel like a kid the week before Xmas!!

Well fellas, I just completed my materials and equipment order and now the wait begins...thanks again for all the feedback!!