Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to keep the epoxy off of the eva or cork when I epoxy the tiger wrap, I always seemed to get some on the eva, and it looks awful, especially after I try to sand it off, discoloration, eva falling apart ect.. I tried to tape but it still gets through. LOL! I end up wanting to epoxy the whole grip! Any suggestions will be helpful, thankyou!

Winding Checks.

Jersey, Channel Islands. (U.K.)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/15/2012 07:48PM by Steve Mcleod.

Let it get on there. At some point when the epoxy has started to set a bit, and will not easily flow, you can wet a paper towel with dentured alcohol and fold up a corner, then crisply wipe off the epoxy from the cork or grip at a precise point by holding the wetted towel against the grip while you rotate the rod. The result is a nice, even, precise epoxy mini-ramp.

.............

Tom, I tried that but it left a soaked spot all away around like the eva soaked up the epoxy and it just looks like a not to well of an epoxy job, if you know what I mean, I am going to sand it and see if it does'nt turn out like the others when I tries to sand thew epoxy off of the eva, I got winding checks on, but the epoxy just flows over the winding checks, especially on the last coat of epoxy.Anyway, thanks for the suggestion, have a good one!

There is a window within which this will work. You need to find that window.

............

Lorenzo lets take this a little furthur -

Exactly where is your EVA problem area - exactly

On the front surface of a foregrip?

In the split grip area - one end or both?

Ever played pin ball games?

This is another place TILT can cause problems if too much finish is present.

Bill how far do want to take it! tis on the Tiger wrap, on a split grip rod, so it will be on the edge of the EVA, near the split grip area, and what does pinball have to do with applying epoxy on a tiger wrap? lol!!

If your rod isn't level, then you'll get epoxy creep and unevenness no matter what you do. Get it centerline level.

Like said
Winding checks Two one at each end
Easy on the finish More coats and thin be very carefull near the ends
Thin folded paper towel with alcohole on just after you apply finish And several times
Or
You can try doing the wrap first Then putting the end grip on from the end and build up the blank to fit And the fore just slides on from the tip Ream it so it goes on easier
Try putting it on the lath and CAREFULLY sand the ends with fine paper

Bill - willierods.com

Lorenzo,

How are you sizing your winding checks?

If you choose checks with an ID slightly larger than the blank, you can tuck finish under the checks while you build up the depth of the tiger wrap. If you choose the right size, you should be finishing to about the ID of the check on the final top coat(s).

Joe

No one mentioned to be more careful when applying epoxy.

Take your time when applying your epoxy to the area near your grips and in the split area.

Use something to steady your arm and get in a comfortable position. Get closer to your work area if need to. Get your self better or more lighting above the area where applying your finish.

Take your time when applying your epoxy to the area near your grips and in the split area.

Use winding cks if you're not already using them. Apply your epoxy up to the edge of your check and not up on top of it.

Don't load so much on your brush at one time.

Take your time when applying your epoxy to the area near your grips and in the split area.

Keep anything that shouldn't be near your work area out of your way.

Oh and one other thing...........Take your time when applying your epoxy to the area near your grips and in the split area.

Lance

No one mentioned to be more careful when applying epoxy.

I did

Bill - willierods.com

We will get there!

Thanks for your first answer - still need to think through a little more

Both ends of the split grip area or only one?

If only one

1. Level up

2. Apply iess finish and as Lance said do it carefully.

If both ends -

1. Too much finish applied per coat - winding check if vinyl or rubber and EVA have different surface properties than finish and will attract and retain excess.

2. Finish applied to soon after mixing - read Roger Seiders instruction for applying finish to decal or long thread wraps. Finish will move around on its own when the polymerization process starts early in the cure cycle - wait at least 5 - 7 minutes to apply finish to areas that have different surface characteristics - do guides first - other areas later. Let the finish thicken a little in the pan. I notice you posted on another thread that you were using Threadmaster Lite - you can problably wait a little longer after mixing to apply finish in the split grip area.

3. EVA is not porus - finish that gets on the surface will not soak in - it is on the surface - Wipe off as Tom Kirkman instructed. After it sets on the surface it is very difficult to remove by sanding without messing up the surface -



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/16/2012 11:00AM by Bill Stevens.

Thanks all! I WILL BE MORE CAREFUL! I learned a lesson, boy! seems like I learn something new on every rod. Tight wraps all!

For between split grips, you could do the tiger and then ream and install the split grips. You can also do this in front of the reel seat and then install the foregrip.