I recently did 2- 17in tigers on 1in diameter blanks and I have had issues with finish repelling in certain areas. I am using Chromaseal CP. I had 2 bottles both purchased at the same time and the first bottle seemed fine. On the first rod's base wrap I used bottle number one and got a nice level finish. For the top layer I had to use hte second bottle and had several areas that wouldn't take finish even after 3 coats and sanding between the 2nd and 3rd coat. I was careful to not touch the wrap with my hands. The second rods base wrap looks very splotchy with many areas that have repelled finish. I let the CP dry for at least 12 hours and used 2 coats with about an 2 hours dry time between each coat. I put the finish on with my power wrapper and hit it with the torch from about 10in at a couple hundred rpm's lightly to level and remove bubbles. Has anyone had this problem or have a fix for this issue. Is there a better CP out there or would more coats help? I am using my wrapper to put the CP on and have noticed I get thinner coats. I used to lay that stuff on thick, but quit because I felt it was causing uneven finish.

For whatever reason, this seems to happen to random people with Chromaseal. I use it from time to time and never had a problem, manby others use it wiht no problems, then a few peopl euse it and for wwhatever reason, the repelling happens.

Good to know. Think I'll stick with FC CP.

Brandon, did you use madeira thread on the tiger wraps? because i have found only on madeira thread coated with chromaseal that the finish will repel in places when to much heat is applied to the wraps. This is why i only apply a thin coat of finish for the first coat and try not to over heat it with the alcohol torch.This problem never happens when i use flexcoat cp on madeira when i use a lot of heat. I can only think it is because flexcoat cp forms a stronger barrier than chromaseal cp to seal off the silicone from the madeira? If you didn't use madeira for your tiger wraps, did you use alcohol to clean the sanded epoxy? that can sometimes cause contamination to the finish and made worse when it's overheated too. I only use chromaseal cp on my weaves, but when i do a tiger wrap i always use flexcoat cp thinned 50/50 with distilled water, and apply 2 coats and never get any problems when i apply a lot of heat to the wraps. Give it a try on your next tiger.

Jersey, Channel Islands. (U.K.)

Yes, I was using Madeira and no I didn't use anything other than a dry filter to wipe the rod down.

What do you do when you have an area that the finish won't stick to. I put 3 coats on and still the finish wouldn't stick on those problem areas.

Hi Brandon,
I've been using chromaseal for a good few years, just after I changed to madeira and have never had any issues. I don't apply any heat like Steve and put three good wet coats on. I find it works great with madeira giving spool colours and I've never seen a fisheye, small or large.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

If you are unable to get a water break surface on your cp, with a fine scotchbrite pad, that the epoxy may stick to, then I would try coating everything with another brand of cp, or even the same brand, then not heat it for the first epoxy coat.

Don't know if it works or will
But a trick was posted here where a builder put small pieces of thread into the finish Seamed the silicone mixed in the finish and helped with the fisheye problem
Maybe a search here will bring up the post

Bill - willierods.com

Thanks for the ideas. I'm guessing that since I used my new power wrapper to put the CP on I may have just got to thin a coat and the heat may have messed that coat up. I ran out of Chromaseal and used some old Flexcoat I had on this current rod and put it on the same way has before so I will see if it is me or the CP.

Try Not heating Some times it causes more problems

Bill - willierods.com

Brandon Gay Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> What do you do when you have an area that the
> finish won't stick to. I put 3 coats on and still
> the finish wouldn't stick on those problem areas.


when i used to overheat it and the finish would repel leaving an unevevn suface, i just let it dry and applied a heavier coat the next day to level it out, and with heat it turned out fine for me. Like Col i apply at least 3 full coats when i use Chromaseal cp. But if this is going to be a problem for you when you over heat your madeira wrapped tigers then either switch to flexcoat cp where you can apply heat to the finish without it repelling, or do 2 coats of chromaseal cp and 1 coat of flexcoat cp. That should eliminate the problem.

Jersey, Channel Islands. (U.K.)

Brandon,
Another thought is to select colors on your wraps, so that you have no need to use CP.
No cp applied, and no issues with finish not sticking.

REW

When a finish won't stick to a substrate the best solution is to remove as much as you can before it sets up. Then coat it with a material that will stick and use it as a barrier to keep the substrate (and whatever has contaminated it) sealed away from the top coat. The finish that is most likely to stick to contaminated substrates is DEWAXED shellac. Then apply the topcoat which will stick to dewaxed shellac. A thin coat of 2 lb. cut shellac should do the job.

This is why I went back to FlexCoat CP

Then again - why are you heating the CP ???
I put it on just as finish on a turner

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/09/2012 07:20PM by bill boettcher.

I'm not sure I overheated it. I lightly hit it from 10in at about 150rpm's. I was able to fix it by allowing the finish to set for about 2 hours then going back and adding small dab of finish that had set for about 15 minutes on the bad spots. Nice level finish. I'm thinking next time I will add an extra coat of CP.

Hi Brandon,
I've tried the trick Bill is talking about with adding a few pieces of thread to the finish mix on test wraps and it works fine. By adding some thread you add silicon and it makes the surface tension the same and no fisheyes. You don't need colour preserver but the lighter madeira colours will turn translucent while the darker ones are fine.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

My Chromaseal is in the bin.