I have just finished my second rod so i am starting to get a basic understanding of things but also running into a few problems so time to start asking
for some help.

Firstly i have a rod lathe so getting used to that but while wrapping guides on an ultralight blank towards the tip end the rollers do not support the blank
as the tip is so fine and there is a chance that the blank could rub on bare metal while under pressure from the wrapping of the thread.I did wrap some
masking tape around the blank to build up the diameter of the blank so it came into contact with the wheels of the supports.Is there an easier way of doing this ?

Secondly i am getting still a tiny bit of the thread sticking up after i have cut off the tag ends.I have tried to cut it as closely as possible but when i put on the finish
there is a small always a small knob sticking up.I have tried using small a set of clippers and a stanley knife blade held on its side or is this something you
get better with in time ?

More questions to come in time

cheers.......ray

Hi Ray,
After nearly 40 years of building I'm still a hand turner so I will leave the lathe question to the other learned gents. Your tag end problem is not uncommon and you need to find something that works for you and you will get better with practice. Good lighting and some sought of magnification will help.I use a new single edged blade for every rod and pull the tag end firmly towards the end of the wrap. You may find a pair of hermostats will help you to keep all the thread tight before you cut. This will cause a few of the wraps to become elevated and you need to be careful you don't cut into them. After you position the blade try and make a quick clean cut without sawing. A burnishing tool will help to get it right under and when you straighten the end of the wrap it will help to pull it further under. If you've still got a bit of fuzzies you can melt it off with an alcohol torch. I prefer to use a few drops of methylated spirits in a teaspoon as it doesn't burn as hard and doesn't last long. Whatever you use you need to turn the rod quickly back and forth while holding the flame a few inches under it and it's not hard to melt the wrapped thread. A large fuzzy will leave a small nub of melted nylon and may cause a problem after the finish is applied. This can be removed with a new single edged blade and another coat of finish applied. Other guys use various methods and you can choose what suits you best. You can fix the ones you've done with the blade and another coat of finish if you wish.
I've just about finished cleaning up my workshop so we can get together after your trip. Send an email when you get back. Click on my name to get the email address.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

I found two tools which work extremely well for cutting thread tag ends.
The first, which I use most often, is a Surgical Scalpel with #11 Blades.
I buy a box of 100 high quality cobalt steel blades for $20.
These start out sharper than razors or X-Acto blades and retain their edge longer.
They stay sharp for about a week
Just be careful when changing blades. The can split when being pulled with a pliers.

The second tool is Tweezerman Cuticle Nipper.
I chose a 1/2 Jaw model and it works very well.
Tweezerman provides free sharpening when needed.
Mine is made of Cobalt Steel and I use it only on thread.
It remained sharp for over a year.


It's very important to cut the thread as close to the surface of the wrap as possible without marring the wrap.
Just make sure the blade or the nipper jaws are flat against the wrap when making the cut and it will be fine.
I pull the tag end to stretch it a bit at a 45* angle.
Then, when I cut the tag the rest is pulled back under the wrap.

You can also trim the tag before pulling it under with the tie off loop.
Just pin the tag in place with the pressure of the tie off loop and cut it short.
If you have put enough wraps over the tie off loop the tag will simply be too short to pop up when you pull out the loop.
I hope this instruction makes sense.

Thankyou very much for your detailed replies lots of good information for me to digest.Guess i just have to get a system in place that i am
comfortable with.Just have to address one speed bump at a time,Be interested to see your setup Col and see if i am being to hard on myself
with my efforts so far.Will email you once i get back if we get to go that is.

cheers....Ray

on the supports, pull the 2 lower wheels off and clearance the metal between them so that the smaller diameter near the tip can not rub on the support. I dont know why they dont do that from the factory. I remember way back when i got my powerwrapper i learned that lesson the hard way on the tip section of a thomas and thomas blank

Thanks Phil will give that a go may take a few days to make it happen as i am away but will let you know how it works.

cheers.....ray

For the tag ends, try cutting the tag end before you pull it under your wraps with the loop. This takes a little practice not to cut it too short/long but once you get the hang of it you will not have to deal with the tag end fuzz at all. While holding tension on the tag end, pull the loop until the end of the loop is just ready to go under the wraps. The loop will have closed down and holds the tag end so that it won't slip. Then cut the tag end down close to the loop and pull the loop out as normal. I can just use a regular pair of cutters and don't have to fuss with super sharp blades and burners. Good luck.

Ray,
With the tag ends, I use a pair of very fine tipped fly tying scissors. Then, when it comes time to trim the thread end, I pull the thread very tight and trim flush to the wrap. The thread will generally stretch a bit, and if cut close will tend to pull the tag end back under the wraps.

With respect to the tips- here are a couple of pictures of rod rests that I use. One with wheels, and one is just a notch cut in a solid blank that I use for very fine tipped rods like ice rods.

[www.rodbuilding.org] ---- When I made this rod support, I made the bottom rollers very very close together. In addition, I undercut the supporting bar in the area of the blank, so that it is impossible to have the blank touch bare metal.

[www.rodbuilding.org] ---- WhenI made this support, I have the bottom support wheels overlapping each other. So, again, it is impossible to have a blank touch the bare metal

For the very fine tipped ice rods, where I wanted a support right beside the guide being wrapped, I made this support which is nothing more than a solid fiberglass rod blank with a notch cut into the top of the blank that is slightlhy wider than the blank. Again, no excess wear on the blank being wrapped.
[www.rodbuilding.org]


Roger



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 06/04/2012 03:02PM by roger wilson.

Thanks to all who have answered some great ideas there and problem solved with the rod support and hope fully has helped anyone
else who is having the same problems.

cheers........Ray

Tweezerman Cuticle nippers. Lifetime free sharpening. I have 2 pair and alternate having them sharpened. They are awesome. [www.rodbuilding.org]

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!