Hello folks,

I am an avid river smallmouth fisherman and for some unknown reason (actually I am tired of watching expensive rigs sink in the drink in fairly high water flows) I have wanted to build my own rods (and maybe some for friends and family). So long story short, I purchased a 7' light 2 piece rod kit. Of course, on a first build I have questions. Here we go with the questions and thanks in advance for any and all replies:

No tip-top adhesive included. I purchased guidefoot stick, will that suffice or could I use epoxy?

I like to do things as precisely as possible (and I know this question has arisen before), but the predrilled cork handles have a very small (about 5mm) hole and the small reamer I puchased is still too large to start... any suggestions on enlarging that opening keeping it centered?

"Graphite arbors" were included with this kit and again the predrilled holes are very small. The instructions with the kit say to eboxy the arbors in the reel seat and then ream out. It seems more precise to use masking tape as a bushing but is there an advantage to using the graphite?

I'm sure I'll run into something else during this build, but hopefully advice on these questions will get me movin'.

Thanks,
Tim Runnion

Tim,

Welcome to a new hobby/addiction. Something you may be interested in is an article in a past RodMaker issue that details a rod recovery mechanism built into the butt of a rod. It's a good read, but I don't have the copy on hand right now to tell you which one to get.

For tip top adhesive, you'll need a high temp glue stick (sold by most suppliers) or epoxy. Use a quick cure epoxy like 5 minute, as you can still remove the top for repair without damaging the rod. If you use a slow cure epoxy, you will likely need too much heat to remove the tip top resulting in a damaged rod. Personally I use 5 minute epoxy and it has treated me well.

If you reamer is too small, you can always start with a rat tail file. It will do the job well, and you can pick up one for a few bucks at the hardware store.

The graphite arbors refer to the color not the material. They are a light rigid foam rather than graphite. These are superior to masking tape because they are light and rigid making them better for transmitting vibrations from the blank to the reel seat. You also don't need to encase them in epoxy like you do with the tape to keep it from deteriorating over the years. The result is a lighter more rigid reel seat mount and will result in a better performing rod.

Best of luck with your first build. There is nothing better than getting that first river smallie to break in a new rod.

Joe

Hello Tim.

Joe's advice is good, the RodMaker issue he refers to "Rod Rescue Device." is in volume11 issue 6 pg.10.

Welcome aboard, tight wraps.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

To open up the cork and arbors, you can also hand turn a drill bit or use a drill bit on a T-handle type chuck. If you have a drill press and the sections will fit this is the fastest way to open the holes and keep them straight.

As for the arbors themselves, I saw someone post on another thread that they have used the fiberglass tape for drywall joints instead of masking tape. I think this is a brilliant idea and plan to try it but I haven't yet. Many times, depending on the diameter of the blank versus the diameter of the arbor, they will get pretty thin and can crack easily so work slowly if this is the case. Masking tape is by far the fastest arbor mateiral, just not the best.

As for the tip-top I always use the 5 minute epoxy. I don't care for the hot glue. I have found that tips installed with hot glue will move if left in a hot car or if they have torque applied to the tip over a long period of time. You can remove the epoxy with heat and I can't see that you damage the tip badly.

Good luck with your build. However, I don't think this will solve your intial problem as you will become much more attached to something you built as opposed to just buying, especially when(if) you get into thread art, custom handles, etc. It is a lot of fun but don't expect it to save you money!

I used fiberglass drywall tape on my first rod, worked very well. I made three arbors about 1/4" wide for my VSS17 reel seat.

Again, thank you all for the information. I will most certainly use 5 minute epoxy for the top. Man, that cork reaming was a beast. I purchased a small round file to enlarge the predrilled cork and then went at it with a razor wand.

As Mr Lang mentioned those arbors should be very thin by the time I have them sized to fit in place. My plan is to size the holes for the arbors, epoxy them in place on the rod and then epoxy the reel seat over them. The predrilled holes wouldn't have lined up it I had epoxied them in the reel seat first and then reamed them out (as the instructions say). I don't have a drill press which would have been nice for this. I decided to use the arbors since I have them. I do like the idea of fiberglass tape as well.

I know I won't save any money, I could have had an off the shelf G Loomis smallmouth rod for what I've got going so far (they tend to sink quickly) but I have enjoyed the pursuit of knowledge and looking forward to completeing the build. It's fantastic to have a resource such as this. I appreciate the time you gentlemen took to respond. I'll more than likely need more advice down the road.

Tim Runnion
Charleston, West Virginia

Tim if you think you are going to stick with the hobby investing in a few tools is worthwhile.

The make pilot bits for the graphite arbors and reverse bits for cork. To that add a set of reamers. It will make the work faster, easier, and much more accurate.

And no, you won't save money but you will have superior rods. The key is an open mind and tapping into the shared wisdom here.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Thanks for the information Russ. I have no problems buying the right tools for the job. I have invested a lot of time in this project. Still having fun, but a lot of little problem solving. There's no way that I expected to get a primo looking rod the first time out. Right now I'm struggling with wrapping. Put in on, take it off, put it on....I seem to always have a "nib" after I have cut following the pull through. I need to learn that skill. But I am staying after it.
Thanks,
Tim Runnion
Charleston, WV

The little nib is no problem. Coat with your epoxy and afterwards use a sharp razor blade and slice the nib off. Then recoat and it will look perfect. You can even wet sand wraps as long as you don't sand into the thread. And if your wrap truly looks terrible you can even wrap over the old wrap.

In the beginning I suggest keeping it simple. Black thread is best and is easy to make look perfect on a black or matte blank. Look in the library for an article on adding trim bands using a nail knot method.

Change your idea of what a rod should look like. Read up on the 27X guide placement method and static testing. Strive to keep weight to a minimum. Handles can be a nice place to customize. Take a look at things like the aero seat kit with the carbon tube.

I fish saltwater. In my case it seems commercial rods are stuck in the past. I find it rather easy to build a better rod. On the other hand many anglers would think they look weird and wouldn't stand up over time. I know better and that 99% of problems are abuse.

Remember all blanks fish best as a cane pole and everything you add only degrades them. Therefore keep additions to a minimum, especially near the tip end of the rod. That said I will typically use an extra guide as 8 small guides outperform 7 heavy guides.

Have fun and don't stress. All rods have flaws. It is just that you know where yours are. In the end it is how many fish it puts in the boat.


PS, don't buy kits. You can do better picking your own parts or letting a good vendor put together a package deal based on your needs.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

This is how I finish the wrap so that I don't have any "nibs". I put in the pull through in10 to 12 wraps from the end & I use 8lb mono loops with a surgeons knot to tie the ends of the loop. I put the "tag"end of the thread in the loop and pull the mono loop until the thread is tight against the end of the wrap. I cut the excess thread at the mono loop and pull the loop out which buries the end of the thread under the wraps with no "nibs". Also as I wrap I like to pack the wraps with my thumb nail so that they are tight as I continue the wrap. This is the method that I use and other folks have methods that work for them. I believe that after a little practice you will have "NIB-LESS" wraps. Hope this helps.

Thanks Russ. I am zooming in on completion. The wraps got progressively better as well as the cuttting of the excess thread. I liked the cane pole reference. Believe me I think I was minimalist with the wraps. Once finish is applied I think they will look passable. No more kits.

Thanks

Tim Runnion
Charleston, WV

Thanks for the advice Dave. My thumbnail was an unwitting tool. I am actually using a swing arm magnifier lamp and sometimes my thumbnail was the only tool I could see. Ha. My wraps are finished but I will definetly try to incorporate the technique that you use in the future. I don't like the idea of having a razor blade near a just completed wrap. Although on this build I wrapped, cut and rewrapped more than I would like to mention. I still see some problems, which I am sure the folks on this forum would see in a heart beat, but I doubt if most fisherman ever "study" the wraps and minute details on their respective rods. I have to admit that I never really did previously. Here in landlocked WV, the fishing rod build was something I just wanted to learn and then do, but already the fishing buddies are hinting at what they would like to have.

Thanks,

Tim Runnion
Charleston, WV

THANKS

Joe, Robert, Zachary, Dave and Russ. My first rod finished. But no way without advice from you guys on this forum. It won't win any prizes, but I claim all of the shortcomings. But it "ain't half bad" either. I enjoyed it enough to start thinkin' about another one. So, it looks like I'll be watchin' and readin' this forum for some time.

Tim Runnion
Charleston, West Virginia

Hello Tim

Congradulations now you've officaly been bit by the rod building bug.

Once again Welcome Aboard.

Keep em tight.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.