I want to try building 1-2 foam core grips and only want to buy a small amount of epoxy for the sleeves. What do you recommend?
thx Jay

It is hard to find in less than about a pint container. The epoxy that I use is hard to find in less than gallon quantities, but I finally found a surf board shop that would sell it in smaller quantities.

mike harris Wrote:
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> It is hard to find in less than about a pint
> container. The epoxy that I use is hard to find in
> less than gallon quantities, but I finally found a
> surf board shop that would sell it in smaller
> quantities.


What kind of epoxy are you using... Im kinda experimenting with different types

Some folks use the same epoxy that they do for guide wraps. For the wetting out process, this may not be optimum but is probably sufficient.

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I am using System 2000, it dries unbelievably clear for epoxy.

Mike, you can buy quarts from fibre glast.

West is a good general purpose choice. MGS 418 might be the ultimate for thin coatings, but $$$. Basically you want a "laminating" resin. There are many names out there. Jamestown is a good distrubutor if you don't have a local source.

Never used it so I can't say.......but a known company makes carbon fiber auto parts with EpoxAmite.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

thanks every one. couple of follow up q's. Is the main problem with wrap epoxy the yellowing or are there other reasons it's sub-optimal? If I go that route, should I use the same for the coats after the sleeve is on or shift to another product like spar urethane?

Not positive but I believe the "wet out" stage would be easier to achieve with the laminating epoxy.

Yellowing won't matter since the epoxy isn't being used for a top coat. Any epoxy on the surface is mostly sanded away.

My preference for top coating is a urethane. I use Permagloss. It provides a thin, lightweight coating that is super hard and durable. One of the past RodMaker issues contained an article on how to best apply it to a carbon skin.

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If you are looking for cheap consider polyester fiberglass resin. Not 100 percent on durability, should be fine (its used in both auto and marine repair).


Pros Exremely hard Cheap Easy to find Fast

Cons Amber hue Hard to use first time Fast

The trick to using this resin is speed and temp. It sets up really fast in hot humid weather. I start by mixing in a small cup, less than a minute. Then pour it out on foil and fold it with a putty knife, followed by blowing through a drinking straw to bust bubbles. I apply it length wise (think butt wrap) with a 2 inch brush. I like to hurry and get enough on there as fast as possible. If I have excess, I wick it off. Start rod spinning as soon as its applied. This stuff sets up in no time. Turn the grip on my lathe sanding with 320. If there is no voids I apply spar urethane in a similiar matter. Fast, cheap, and effective. Note this resin may give a little more hue than epoxy. Its not for everyone. I will be posting pictures of this and other projects soon.

Mr. Kirkman what issue of Rod Maker is the permagloss application technique in? Sprayed I assume?

Doesn't the polyester resin blush?

Yes. But after you sand it, then apply spar, it looks great.

Hello Dean.

I "think" the article Mr. Kirkman speaks of is in RM 14-4 pg. 26. or could be 10-6 pg. 10.

Happy gripping.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/07/2012 07:46AM by Robert A. Guist.

Thanks Bob!