Since it popped up in another topic. What are the different finishes you guys and gals use to finish a rod and why?

I asked the local tackle shop that taught me how to wrap rods about perma gloss and lumi seal and they could not tell me anything other than they only use epoxy to finish rods.

What else can be used with the pro's and con's?

Strong wraps, calm seas
Derek

I tested all finishes on the market, and for me the best ones are ThreadMaster regular and Pro kote or Aftcote. I have a brief desctiption and hte pro's con's of both, based on my wn personal experiances with these finishes. [northeastrodbuilders.com] < Click the link to see

Thanks,

What about the urathane finishes?

Strong wraps, calm seas
Derek

Most any good quality urethane finish, intended for exterior use, will work fine on guide wraps. PermaGloss and Lumaseal are moisture curing urethanes which dry harder yet more flexible than any epoxy and many other urethanes as well.

Typically, urethanes are not going to give you the high-build or depth of an epoxy without applying multiple coats.

............

Now, I only mention this because it works great for on the water quick repairs and I don't know exactly what the actual compound is but......
Sally Hansen's "Hard as Nails" clear finger nail polish works as a thread finish. Wouldn't use it though as a standard finish.

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

I know that mixing Threadmaster and ProKote works well when done properly with equal parts of each resin and hardner. I have also mixed ProKote and another finish (not to be named here) and it works well also.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

Derek,
i am still learning about this product,only been using it about a year, maybe less, but i am using more and more Deft water based polyurethane. The gloss is working best for me. 4 or 5 coats looks sort of like a 2 coat TM lite finish.
I am becoming more sensitive to the epoxies so i am constantly looking for alternatives.
Until mid summer i would just use Deft on feather work instead of CP, thinned about 10% with distilled water its very runny and the easiest product to use of the ones i have tried.
No beading with a top coat of TM lite .
No problems over peel and stick decals.
No problem over bare graphite or S Glass and the decal go on to it OK too.
Water cleanup, for anone who has ever worked with PG/Lumiseal you know how awesome that is.Humid/very dry days also no problem.
I have been doing long term tests with it as a top coat but that will be a few seasons before i can say its OK for that, its only been a half year that my test pieces were placed out in the yard to get exposed to the elements.
Not come up with a good way to check its flexing over time yet.
In the long run you are going to have to find what works best for you, in your shop with your abilities, climate, skin condition and volumes. Wives opinions on odors also come in to play.

Thanks for the input every one. I will definately be looking into using a polyurethane for final coats on my rods very soon.


That "hard as nails" stuff may be a clear acrylic paint, if its the same stuff my mother used to do her nails when I was still in elementary school. That may be another thing for me to look at, if I can find a larger size (say atleast a quart)

Derek

Strong wraps, calm seas
Derek

Derek - beware buying a quart of the self catalyzed such as Perma Gloss. From what I have read, once you open the jar/bottle, the challenge becomes how to keep what you have not used from hardening.

The stuff like nail polish requires fresh air to "outgas" in order to cure. Thanks for the heads up on the Perma Gloss though

Strong wraps, calm seas
Derek