Alright, so up to this point I have used grips with the 1/4 inch hole already through them, or I have a mold that has a 1/4 rod that runs through the center so when the foam cures, the hole is already center. I'm trying to advance myself into different grips like the EVA blocks. I have never used a mandrel before, how do you keep it center when running it through the block?

Get the blocks with the hole in them Or ask the supplier to drill you one

[www.mudhole.com]
or
[www.mudhole.com]

Billy of the Nerds can make you what you need
[northeastrodbuilders.com]
Most blocks are 2" buy 2" Billy can make them smaller if you make handles about 1" OD

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/04/2012 07:49AM by bill boettcher.

Well i'm trying to be more self sufficient, and really want to get creative with my grips, so learning how to use a mandrel is kind of important.

You still have to put the block on a mandrel Put it on a lath and turn the block to shape it ???

Bill - willierods.com

You either need to use a very tight fitting mandrel or have one that allows you to apply pressure from at each end of the stock.

...............

you dont use the mandrel to cut the hole into the block?

reason why i ask is because I saw the mandrels that mudhole sells and they have a sharp tapered end. So I assumed that it was used for cutting the holes into solid blocks.

No

You cut with the block on a lath with a drill bit of sorts

Buy WHY You can buy them with the hole

Check the photo page to see what can be done with eva wood foam cork

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/04/2012 08:07AM by bill boettcher.

Thank you Bill and Tom for the enlightenment. Definately gave me a better insight.

Check some of these nice handles [www.rodbuilding.org]

Bill - willierods.com

The problem with the bored blocks is you cannot do the intricate designs (even though they are easy to do). Ellipticals, Herringbones, etc - you need to make those out of a solid block or once everything is glued back together the pre-holes will not line up. If you do use pre-bored blocks, which a lot of people do (as pointed out by Bill available only through myself & Mudhole), just fit the hole to the mandrel. SO a 3/8" bore will fit on a 3/" mandrel, if it's loose build up with masking tape. If it's too tight ream it out or you won't be able to get it off (18" mandrel, 12 or 14" grip only leaves you with 4-6" to hold the mandrel to pull off a tight fitting EVA grip you just turned).
Buying mandrels - figure out what size rods you build, and buy a few. IMO for EVA 3/8, 5/8, and 5/8 is sufficient. 1/4" mandrels I am not a fan off because I've bent them trying to get tight fitting EVA grips off, I should listen to my own advice sometimes huh? The conical shaped end it to fit a tailstock live center. For boring use Brad points, Irwin speedbore, or Forstner bits. Keep in mind oyu have to buy them long enough....at the same time the shorter the bit the more accurate it is to bore since it wobbles less.

Here's a link to my grip page: [northeastrodbuilders.com] <<

Billy, I want to try and build some of thos crazy EVA grips you do. They are just awesome! Thats why I inquired about this subject because I know you have to use the solid blocks. and to achieve the center hole I thought thats what the mandrel was for, lol I was wrong. Thanks for that info. Was definately needed.

I plan on running an article on basics of unbored block inlays, and simple trim the Billy V way. The article I did on Random Abstracts does cover boring out the blocks, and sanding the grip down > I put a SHITTON of info into that article, and I'm very happy Tom ran the entire article the way I wrote it up. Thre is VERY LITTLE info on this subject, and I am working to change that. There are quite a few guys here in the North East doing some CRZY grips, they do not post much though. Also a bunch who bought lathes and bandsaws and are planning to make some grips. Why...because they have the info on how to do the inlays and can justify the expenses. W/o the info, you're left dumping $1000 into something that you have no clue how to do, how to use the materials, etc. THat's is how I started, fortunately I have teh disposable income and the ability to trial and error and not be dejected on MANY errors. I also spent a TON of time researching wood working techniques for inlays and marquetry etc.

This will be the year of the Grip inlay, lol.

Im glad to hear this. I definately think this will be the year for grips too. Grips definately add that unique look everyone wants and seems to have endless possiblitys. I'm excited to see some of the new grips that come out. I'm even working on something this year thats in the design phase, I plan on showing everyone in the next 2-3 months to see opinions and take criticism for improvement. I'm confident I havent seen anything like it. So I hope everyone feels the same.

Andrew Billy has some great info and has helped me along the way. I' goin to post pics drilling 7" yellow eva block. pics on misc file
!
1. Make sure it is square
2. Center ends. I put a piece of tape on each end but didn't flip it and you can see it came out on center.
3. Started with 3/8 forstner bit -not necessary.Brad point ok.
4.Most important run lathe at slowest speed.
5.Use longer 3/8 irwin bit with tape on so you know when through block
6 You can back bit out or push it slowly through
now you can use mandrel as Billy says to shape grip



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/04/2012 10:18AM by Bill Ballou.

Andrew ,make the trip to High Point and you can learn first hand from some of the best in the business.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

Oh i plan on it for sure. I'm about 4 hours from high point,so I'm definately making the drive........and spending alot of money. hahaha Its hard to coose on buying a nice new rod blank or supplys..

As Bill said:

In addition, have a 4 jaw chuck for your lathe. With a 4 jaw chuck, it is very easy to get the square block perfectly centered in the lathe head stock.

Then, for any sort of center boring, have a center drill bit that is about 2 inches long. You want to do all of your center drilling with the point of the drill only out of the head stock an inch or so.
By having a very short drill, you can be sure that you are getting a perfect center in the work piece.
After getting the first inch drilled go to a longer drill as required.

When 1/2 done with the work piece, remove the work piece from the lathe, reverse it and drill from the opposite end.

Particularly, when you are working on stock that is a foot or more long, by drilling 1/2 way from each end will insure that the ends are perfectly centered and that any slight misalignment is minimized by going only 1/2 way from each end.

Good luck and have a great day shaping your handle.

Roger